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Flourescent Yellow Paint


kpcrash
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Ok, I've tried Spaz and Fascolor, trying to get an obnoxious yellow color - seems that the regular water based acrylics are just not suitable for this (unless someone can make some suggestions) If someone know of a brand of flour. yellow that you've had success with - please let me know.

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Fascolor, which is just AutoAir/Createx, should work fine. It gets the effect on Rc Bodies, I haven't yet used it on a guitar.

What are you putting it over? White will give it more pop, black will darken it, grey will mustard it out. Silver or the Fascolor aluminum paints will give you a slight candy effect.

Are you reducing it at all? Autoair recomends a 10:1 reduction for best flow out. Since they make Fascolor for Parma, I'd go with it.

What are you spraying it with? Is the tip size right and your gun adjusted well. I think with out proper set up this stuff would be too thick and loose the effect.

Also with AutoAir/Createx/Fascolor you need to work in really light coats. I have about 60 quarts of it from a painter that was moving shops.

Your first coat should look like a guide coat just dusted on. It gives the next coats something to cling to. The next coat should give you even coverage, even though it can be heavier you don't still want it more than a medium coat.

If you've tried 2 brands with out the effect you want, I would really examine your process.

Shoot some test pieces and clear them. You wont really see what the outcome is without clear.

Otherwise I'd look into the HOK system, but be prepared to buy primer, sealer, base and clear. You can get the best deals from Coast Airbrush. They also sell many of the brands of paint and can help you out.

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Syxxstring - you were correct. After submitting this post last night I went back to reading about the differences in shooting water-based vs. solvent-based. This is the first "real" project I've done with water based material and of course, being such a light color was presenting some challenges. The basic setup WAS Ibanez 550 body with varnish-based sanding sealer applied in 3 very thin coats. This was of course sanding smooth with 600/800 and I applied the Spaz Glo White Backer as originally, this was going to be Spaz to a test piece. Talked to some people and they showed me faskolor - decided to try it since my conscience wants me to be safer in the shop. Test piece looked fine. Base coated with faskolor white let dry for 48 hours, sanded smooth (600 - had just a couple of gnats land in the paint - welcome to summer in VA) and then tried the following:

1.0 mm tip @ 32 psi, flow control almost closed - looked like orange peel (no reduction)

0.7 mm tip @ 40 psi, all flow options, reduced 5 to 1 - looked better, but took forever to dry

0.3 mm tip @ 50 psi, full flow, reduced 5 to 1 - perfect coat - just took forever with a .3 tip

I honestly had not seen the 10:1 (oversight?) so I will give that a try and see if I can get the same coat with a larger tip. What frustrated me was of course, was that it was taking forever to dry and nobody warned me about Createx/Faskolor's pilling/peeling factor when sanded. Now I know (and knowing is half the battle). On a humorous note, I have considered getting one of those old-fashioned beauty shop hair dryers and fashioning it to hold a guitar body so that I can get the paint to dry in the same day it's sprayed :D Thanks!

Adding a pic here - camera makes it look rather green - but effect is outstanding.

stevesneck1.jpg

Edited by kpcrash
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I never had any problem with Cratex taking a long time curing. Most of the time I sprayed it with an airbrush since I used it for shading or bursting, but I had painted 2 entire guitars with them, and as long as you have a nice solid base after the color is done all you have to do is clear. Here are the 2.

Green teal with green pearl, and a gold pearl with cooper pearl burst. If you do paint it too thick and then need to sand back, yes, it is kinda rubbery. Like epoxy primer on 2K paints.

DSC01782.jpg

DSC02028.jpg

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Thank you very much. I've been rather obsessed with this the last few days and am confident with it now. Guess I had just gotten too comfortable with finishes that evaporate "quicker". Also, figure if I'm going to keep using this stuff - it's time for a few more fans in the drying area.

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i've used Krylon fluorescent yellow on an old 1985 Greco device..... turned out insanely bright and annoying =D whcih did the job perfectly fine....

haven't clear coated it yet.... but i've used ACE white enamel as a base coat and it made it as bright as i expected. it has to be a matt surface though so i bought the gloss one and sanded it smooth and matt then applied the krylon....

i'll post pictures whenever i finish teh whole thing.

p.s. the krylon finish dries completely in less than an hour!

Edited by Sami Ghouri
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