boundsteelblues Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 Is their custom router bit a necessity or can you get away with 1/4" .25 versus .225 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 yep. might rattle though. its only 1/32" smaller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 http://www.routerbits.com/ You will find the right size here...use the correct one...nothing more infuriating than a ghost vibration... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 yep. might rattle though. its only 1/32" smaller. A bit of packing will cure that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundsteelblues Posted September 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 yep. might rattle though. its only 1/32" smaller. A bit of packing will cure that. The instructions say a spot or two along the rods of silicone sealer is ok. I guess you just have to be careful how far you take it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 Wrapping the truss rod in Saran Wrap does the trick. Plus, it keeps epoxy/glue from getting in there and mucking things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 I use saran wrap...but only one layer thick...and I use the correct size bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 I use their truss rods because that's what I'm used to using but I've had one break on me before stewmac sent me replacement parts because I had already removed the fingerboard if I hadn't they would have sent me their truss rod fixer kit (which is more than $200 I think). I use a 1/4" bit that has been sharpened a few times and it fits perfect but I got lucky otherwise I would have had to buy another bit. If I were you I might try looking into other truss rods I've heard some other people say they weren't good too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 (edited) I've installed a few and bought the 7/32" bit from elsewhere, I think I've used 1/4" bit as well, no biggie. All my trussrods are sealed in with latex caulking, stuff sticks like sh*t to a blanket and prevents rattling. I don't like to use silly-cone based caulking/sealants etc. because of potential contamination. Get ANY of that stuff on your bare wood and no paint will stick. I've reconsidered my usage of the "Hotrod Bi-flex, dual action truss rod" and can't seem to justify the expense (ya, I'm a cheap bastard ) Basically, idiot proof, keep it slack and just plunk it in, no anchoring needed. But I got to thinking and realized that the last time I even came across a guitar neck that was backbowed enough to warrant a dual action truss rod was 15 years ago! And I've setup and repaired more guitars than I can remember in that time. Anyway, I'm building my own single action truss rods from now on, cost is about 3 bucks for half a dozen (SERIOUSLY). If you can build a guitar right then it should be that simple. Edited September 22, 2008 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 Yeah Southpa...but keep in mind the dual action rods have much more leverage to work with...which is why I use them...you can get a neck dead straight easy with that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundsteelblues Posted September 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 I've decided to get the bit, but not through stew-mac. I have a neighbor that sells into the furniture making industry and can get it for me much cheaper. I appreciate the input. I kind of didn't expect the different opinions. Personally, I just don't want to go to all the work I have to get a truss rod rattling in there and it is so hard to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 (edited) You can also check out Routerbits.com or mlcswoodworking.com for that bit. Its the 7/32" spiral bit. MLCS suggests using Downcut spirals for handheld routing and upcut for tables, just a recommendation. MLCS is a bit cheaper at $14 for the bit and they have free shipping in the contiguous US. Router bits.com is $16 plus about another $6 for shipping. I bought a number of bits MLCS and they've all done me very well, nice and sharp and haven't dulled at all, plus they have loads of interesting bits like the triple wings and so on. Their new horizontal router table is quite interesting too, would be invaluable for certain woodworking jobs. As for the stewmac rods, I used my 7/32" downcut bit and couldn't get my hotrod in, I had to widen it around both nuts on the rod, then even had to widen it a smidge more when I wrapped it. I think I just got an odd ball one that wasn't exact though, in my case a 1/4" would have actually been preferred, but I'd still have started with the 7/32" to be sure it was snug. Next I'm going to try the new truss rods from Allied Luthierie, heard great things about them. Best of luck. J Edited September 24, 2008 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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