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The finished blue shark inlay


Clavin

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Hi all.

Here is the finished product.

I will post more tutorial on how I got to this point ASAP.

I just want to show you that it was done, and how it turned out.

Also-

I think at this point I like the CA better than the epoxy. Either it's not fully cured yet (after 24 hours) or this stuff does stay softer than the CA. I know I mixed it 50/50.

It also looks more off in color than CA and ebony dust. I may go back in the re-do a couple of areas I am not happy with in the routing with CA and dust.

More very soon. The engraving made this piece what it is.

Craig.

9finishedblueshark.jpg

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nice job clavin, yeah i just tried stewmacs #20 instant glue with mahogany dust tonight and it works well, i think im gonna start using that instead of epoxy, that stuff takes forever to cure and its to soft for my tastes! the ca lets you keep working about 15 min later! thats the key!

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Well, even though you CAN start to work 15 minutes later in some CASES, I still suggest letting anyting glued up as much as an inlay to sit overnight regardless.

I do think I like the CA better.

Thanks!

Craig

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i usually take my magnifing desk lamp and place it about 6 inches away from the inlay once it is glued up, this i find speeds up the process alittle. its only a low wattage bulb so it just keeps the inlay around 80 -90 deg if that, so i dont have to worry about cooking it.

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I've used epoxy a lot in my job. With epoxy, you HAVE to make absolutely certain you have a nice good mixture of the resin and hardener, if you don't then it won't cure evenly and you'll get a soft cure much like you're speaking of.

It helps to heat it slightly, just warm so that the epoxy gets nice & runny without making bubbles. Use a tin-foil dish over the lowest setting on your stove. Then mix for a good 90 seconds without stopping (keep it warm), only then will it be well mixed and ready to go.

Also, don't use the quick-cure epoxy. Use the regular stuff.

That said, I haven't used the CA. My experience is only with epoxy (and not on inlays).

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Another gorgeous inlay, what is the blue plastic you used, it's awesome, it suits the shark perfectly. My one question, the one thing I hate doing more than anything, is, how do you cut your fretslots after you've inlayed? I generally do all my routes, then cut the inlay for the slots, then glue it all together in the board, but surely there must be a better method of recutting slots through the shell once it's in the fretboard? I was taught to cut it apart after routing and glue the pieces in individually. But that allows alot of room for error in alignment.

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Thanks LGM.

As far as the thickness question goes, no. I always thickness the pieces seperatley. Some materials are so thick that it would throw everything off. I am also afraid that since I cut so many tiny pieces the sander would rip them off.

I just rout to the depth, or, if I am piecing together in reverse I don't back the pieces that are to shallow, I fill in the back with eboony dust and glue, then inlay as flush as possible.

The blue plastic is call blue ocean or something like that. Sorry I forgot!

Basically I have over at least 60 different materials, shell, stones, woods, metals, ivory, plastics, etc..

Masecraft supply is your one stop materials shop! it will open up your pallete 500%,

And with you inlaying that could be just a tad bit scary :D

Craig

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