NotYou Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I've heard of luthiers cutting out truss rod channels a million different ways. I was wondering what methods you guy use. Right now I'm using a laminate trimmer. It works okay, but it's tough to get it to move in a perfectly straight line, even with a guide. This is an important and sometimes tricky part of making necks and I'm real curious about how different people do it. Keep in mind that we all don't have proper tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 A router table, with featherboards on the side to help keep the board against the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Router with a 30mm guide bushing, running down a template with a straight 30mm channel. Much better than a guide on one side only IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Router table with fence. Easy, safe and accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Router table with fence. Easy, safe and accurate.+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Haha...I guess I am the only one using a router with an edge guide...I get a straight line every time though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundsteelblues Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I used a router with a edge guide. I learned on my test pieces to buy a differnt router next time. I have to take my hand off the handle to reach the off switch. Not good when trying to hold a running router steady. Second lesson is be sure to wait until it stops before lifting the router out of the groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Haha...I guess I am the only one using a router with an edge guide...I get a straight line every time though... Nope. Thats the way I do it also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I used a router with a edge guide. I learned on my test pieces to buy a differnt router next time. I have to take my hand off the handle to reach the off switch. Not good when trying to hold a running router steady. Yep, having the switch right under your thumb while still holding both handles is the way it should be. In fact, most tools these days seem to have a button that you have to hold down with constant pressure. Just release it, and the router stops. To make it stay there, you need to press a lock-in button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Haha...I guess I am the only one using a router with an edge guide...I get a straight line every time though... Nope. Thats the way I do it also Me too, although I have also used a table with a fence. However, having the cutting action all happening underneath where I can't see it makes me nervous. I like to be able to see that the little router bit is chewing up the centre line exactly ALL the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I just use a router free hand straight as an arrow every time you guys just need to man up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Pshaw. I use a hammer made of axes and steak. That's manly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 i do it with rouetr and edge guide too. If your laminate trimmer is wandering try taking shallower passes that should be easier to control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VesQ Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Router with edge guide here too. I´d bet that table mounted router would be better for angled back headstocks. Lack of support at headstock area makes me nervous with my current setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotYou Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I like a laminate trimmer because of the lower power. Depending on the kind of wood, it sometimes makes things easier. I try to not make too much noise in my shop too, so a router is always a last resort. I can't afford a router table at the moment, so I've found I can get a straight line by clamping boards behind the guide and in front of the trimmer, so it can't move in either direction. It's not pretty, but it works perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I can't afford a router table at the moment, All it costs you is the price of a piece of MDF and a couple of screws. I attach my router to the wood, and clamp it in an adjustable workbench. Fences are just spare bits of wood, or, in my case, some aluminium angle, clamped to the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.C. Harrist Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I have a router table and I still prefer to do it with a handheld router. I do it on a B&D Workmate with an edge guide. Less set-up time and it doesn't matter if the edges of my neck blank aren't perfectly straight. Like this: Clickies: http://h1.ripway.com/jcharrist/guitars/trusschannel02.jpg http://h1.ripway.com/jcharrist/guitars/trusschannel03.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotYou Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 (edited) I have a router table and I still prefer to do it with a handheld router. I do it on a B&D Workmate with an edge guide. Less set-up time and it doesn't matter if the edges of my neck blank aren't perfectly straight. Like this: http://h1.ripway.com/jcharrist/guitars/trusschannel01.jpg Clickies: http://h1.ripway.com/jcharrist/guitars/trusschannel02.jpg http://h1.ripway.com/jcharrist/guitars/trusschannel03.jpg That's so obvious, Im ashamed for not thinking of it. I've been doing it in a similar fashion, but using a workbench. The Workmate idea looks like it'll work much easier. This is why I started this thread. Edited October 20, 2008 by NotYou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 I can't afford a router table at the moment, so I've found I can get a straight line by clamping boards behind the guide and in front of the trimmer, so it can't move in either direction. It's not pretty, but it works perfectly. 3/4" melamine/ply/mdf with a hole cut into the center is all you need for a router table. A straight chunk of wood and two clamps are all you need for a fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 3/4" melamine/ply/mdf with a hole cut into the center is all you need for a router table. A straight chunk of wood and two clamps are all you need for a fence. Basically what I was saying. I would use thinner wood though, because the thickness of the wood is reducing the reach of the router bit. In some cases, especially with small bits, it makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 3/4" melamine/ply/mdf with a hole cut into the center is all you need for a router table. A straight chunk of wood and two clamps are all you need for a fence. Basically what I was saying. I would use thinner wood though, because the thickness of the wood is reducing the reach of the router bit. In some cases, especially with small bits, it makes a difference. Ah, must've missed page 2 What bluesy said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 23, 2008 Report Share Posted October 23, 2008 Router with edge guide here too. I´d bet that table mounted router would be better for angled back headstocks. Lack of support at headstock area makes me nervous with my current setup. I rout it while it is still a square blank...But I guess that is the beauty of no scarf joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiggz Posted October 23, 2008 Report Share Posted October 23, 2008 +1 scarf joints are made of fail i do mine with an edge guide on the router. I dont feel I have enough control with the router in the table as I cant see what its cutting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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