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Posted (edited)
I put mine about 2-3mm further back on my Capricorn R7t, and it intonates perfectly.

DJ

I'm also planning to do 7-string guitar. Let's say, that my scale is 660,4 mm (26")(Btw, that really is my scale lenght :D). SO, what point will come in that 660,4mm from the nut? 1st String? 4th string? Of course I mean the point at the bridge. And I'm going to use tunomatic!

Ps. My guitar body will be almost full copy of Jackson's dinky series. My friend borrowed me one so I could draw the shape of da body B)

Pps. 1st post here! :D But I've been registered here already sometime B)

-Juze aka Ghroath

Edited by juze
Posted (edited)

Yea, thx!

Actually, I've used that calculator and many more that are included in that "many calculators"-topic.

BUT, it's hard to tell, what I really mean. My English isn't very good, sorry about that.

Actually, I make few question about your build, that might help me on my primary question:

1. Is your nut/0-fret 90 degree angled to your strings? (I expect that it is)

2. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the first string? (The thinnest ofc)

3. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the seventh string? (Usually the one which is B-tuned)

Maybe you now understood what I tried to ask about.

Edit:

4th question: The first string at the bridge is strictly at the scale and the B-string is just 2-3 mm further from the nut than it really should be (telling by the space between 12th nut and bridge)?

-Juze aka Ghroath :D

Edited by juze
Posted

Nuts are parallel to the frets and perpendicular to the strings.

Bridges are angled back to allow for more intonation room for the bass strings

all the saddles start at exactly the scale length, and then you intonate them, moving them backwards.

Posted

Moro, Juze. Neil said it all there. Thicker strings deflect further when you fret them, plus the outer strings run at an angle compared to the middle strings. I usually move the bass side back 3mm in addition to the normal scale length.

Posted
Moro, Juze. Neil said it all there. Thicker strings deflect further when you fret them, plus the outer strings run at an angle compared to the middle strings. I usually move the bass side back 3mm in addition to the normal scale length.

Thanks Prostheta! (Are you finnish btw?) Now I've got answer to my question :D

Posted
Yea, thx!

Actually, I've used that calculator and many more that are included in that "many calculators"-topic.

BUT, it's hard to tell, what I really mean. My English isn't very good, sorry about that.

Actually, I make few question about your build, that might help me on my primary question:

1. Is your nut/0-fret 90 degree angled to your strings? (I expect that it is)

2. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the first string? (The thinnest ofc)

3. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the seventh string? (Usually the one which is B-tuned)

Maybe you now understood what I tried to ask about.

Edit:

4th question: The first string at the bridge is strictly at the scale and the B-string is just 2-3 mm further from the nut than it really should be (telling by the space between 12th nut and bridge)?

-Juze aka Ghroath :D

Answers (given already, but WTH):

1. yes

2. 650mm from nearside of nut to centre of bridge post on high E side

3. 653mm from nearside of nut to centre of bridge post on low B side

4. yes, the saddles on my bridge have about 8 or 9mm or travel, which is enough to intonate the low B string perfectly

Basically, if you make the low B string side of the bridge 2-3mm further away from the nut, you should be fine.

My scale length is 25.5", which works out at 648mm, but remember that the bridge posts are in the centre of the bridge and are not necessarily where the string will be touching, and it's the string length that's the critical thing here!

Hoping this helps you!

DJ

Posted

Yes, that I was thinking of. I just wanted to be sure, that I won't "****-up" my guitar. Thank for your answers!

And specs about my guitar build, that I'm going to make:

BODY AND NECK: Maple neck-thru, 26"scale 7-string, (Propably) Mahogany wings(Sapel). 22 fret rosewood fretboard 12" radius. Body shape is almost full copy of jackson's Dinky models, so is the headstock. Dunno yet about how thin will the neck be.

ELECTRONICS: ONLY bridge pickup: DiMarzio Blaze (Bridge or custom model), 1 volume pot and 1 tone pot.

HARDWARE: ALL black. Body through string ferrules, tune-o-matic bridge, Ez-lock Wilkinson tuners. Don't know about nut yet.

FINISH: Also, don't know about that yet, you can tell me your suggestions about that.

Hopefully next Friday I can glue the neckblank and bodyblank together.

-Juze aka Ghroath

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