Bmth Builder Posted October 25, 2008 Report Posted October 25, 2008 Hey I was just wondering how much further back you would put the bass side of the TOM than the treble side of the TOM to allow for enough intonation room for a low B? Cheers Quote
djhollowman Posted October 25, 2008 Report Posted October 25, 2008 I put mine about 2-3mm further back on my Capricorn R7t, and it intonates perfectly. DJ Quote
juze Posted October 31, 2008 Report Posted October 31, 2008 (edited) I put mine about 2-3mm further back on my Capricorn R7t, and it intonates perfectly. DJ I'm also planning to do 7-string guitar. Let's say, that my scale is 660,4 mm (26")(Btw, that really is my scale lenght ). SO, what point will come in that 660,4mm from the nut? 1st String? 4th string? Of course I mean the point at the bridge. And I'm going to use tunomatic! Ps. My guitar body will be almost full copy of Jackson's dinky series. My friend borrowed me one so I could draw the shape of da body Pps. 1st post here! But I've been registered here already sometime -Juze aka Ghroath Edited October 31, 2008 by juze Quote
djhollowman Posted October 31, 2008 Report Posted October 31, 2008 Hey, welcome to the forums Juze! Try the calculator here: http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator Hope this answers your question. DJ Quote
juze Posted October 31, 2008 Report Posted October 31, 2008 (edited) Yea, thx! Actually, I've used that calculator and many more that are included in that "many calculators"-topic. BUT, it's hard to tell, what I really mean. My English isn't very good, sorry about that. Actually, I make few question about your build, that might help me on my primary question: 1. Is your nut/0-fret 90 degree angled to your strings? (I expect that it is) 2. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the first string? (The thinnest ofc) 3. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the seventh string? (Usually the one which is B-tuned) Maybe you now understood what I tried to ask about. Edit: 4th question: The first string at the bridge is strictly at the scale and the B-string is just 2-3 mm further from the nut than it really should be (telling by the space between 12th nut and bridge)? -Juze aka Ghroath Edited October 31, 2008 by juze Quote
Bmth Builder Posted November 1, 2008 Author Report Posted November 1, 2008 Nuts are parallel to the frets and perpendicular to the strings. Bridges are angled back to allow for more intonation room for the bass strings all the saddles start at exactly the scale length, and then you intonate them, moving them backwards. Quote
Prostheta Posted November 1, 2008 Report Posted November 1, 2008 Moro, Juze. Neil said it all there. Thicker strings deflect further when you fret them, plus the outer strings run at an angle compared to the middle strings. I usually move the bass side back 3mm in addition to the normal scale length. Quote
juze Posted November 1, 2008 Report Posted November 1, 2008 Moro, Juze. Neil said it all there. Thicker strings deflect further when you fret them, plus the outer strings run at an angle compared to the middle strings. I usually move the bass side back 3mm in addition to the normal scale length. Thanks Prostheta! (Are you finnish btw?) Now I've got answer to my question Quote
Prostheta Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 (edited) My wife is Finnish - Nina is from Heinola, although our family is now primarily in Pori. And yes, I like to drink Karhu-III Edited November 2, 2008 by Prostheta Quote
djhollowman Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 Yea, thx! Actually, I've used that calculator and many more that are included in that "many calculators"-topic. BUT, it's hard to tell, what I really mean. My English isn't very good, sorry about that. Actually, I make few question about your build, that might help me on my primary question: 1. Is your nut/0-fret 90 degree angled to your strings? (I expect that it is) 2. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the first string? (The thinnest ofc) 3. How long is the space between your nut and bridge on the seventh string? (Usually the one which is B-tuned) Maybe you now understood what I tried to ask about. Edit: 4th question: The first string at the bridge is strictly at the scale and the B-string is just 2-3 mm further from the nut than it really should be (telling by the space between 12th nut and bridge)? -Juze aka Ghroath Answers (given already, but WTH): 1. yes 2. 650mm from nearside of nut to centre of bridge post on high E side 3. 653mm from nearside of nut to centre of bridge post on low B side 4. yes, the saddles on my bridge have about 8 or 9mm or travel, which is enough to intonate the low B string perfectly Basically, if you make the low B string side of the bridge 2-3mm further away from the nut, you should be fine. My scale length is 25.5", which works out at 648mm, but remember that the bridge posts are in the centre of the bridge and are not necessarily where the string will be touching, and it's the string length that's the critical thing here! Hoping this helps you! DJ Quote
juze Posted November 2, 2008 Report Posted November 2, 2008 Yes, that I was thinking of. I just wanted to be sure, that I won't "****-up" my guitar. Thank for your answers! And specs about my guitar build, that I'm going to make: BODY AND NECK: Maple neck-thru, 26"scale 7-string, (Propably) Mahogany wings(Sapel). 22 fret rosewood fretboard 12" radius. Body shape is almost full copy of jackson's Dinky models, so is the headstock. Dunno yet about how thin will the neck be. ELECTRONICS: ONLY bridge pickup: DiMarzio Blaze (Bridge or custom model), 1 volume pot and 1 tone pot. HARDWARE: ALL black. Body through string ferrules, tune-o-matic bridge, Ez-lock Wilkinson tuners. Don't know about nut yet. FINISH: Also, don't know about that yet, you can tell me your suggestions about that. Hopefully next Friday I can glue the neckblank and bodyblank together. -Juze aka Ghroath Quote
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