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Cool 1 Hum Design


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Doug,

i just wanted to say, im not usually a fan of tackyish guitars but ive been really getting into your stuff latley (with the exception of the paulstanely doubly neck mirror guitar :D, just not a fan of kiss)

the way all the lines work together..just blows my mind my friend; if all goes well ill be getting a free CNC within the next 5-10months; maybe ill come to you for advice, you seem to know what the hell your doing!

Kenny

EDIT:

a note on the sandblasting you can really control the roughness of your "cut" by the distance you hold the nozzle from the peice, but if your still not getting desired results, try just going out and getting your own grit sand, id imagine you could get the results you want that way, with a lot more control than a blow torch haha

Edited by Kenny
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the way all the lines work together..just blows my mind my friend; if all goes well ill be getting a free CNC within the next 5-10months

Kenny's getting a CNC? Hmm.... Time to start figuring out how I'm going to take advantage of him.

Ok, back to topic. Awesome stuff, Doug. All your stuff is awesome, but these last couple of projects have really surprised me.

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Thanks guys! B) I appreciate the positive feedback.

Things are moving right along with these...even though I havent done any work on the prototype in the past 2 days. I've been working on inlay R&D, bugs in the CNC, and on getting my Dimarzio account set up so I can buy direct. Still waiting on the official verdict from Dimarzio. :D I think I have 2 more of these possibly spoken for. That opens up the door for a bass run, as well as a couple 7 & 8 strings (maybe) :D

I'll post updates tomorrow or Wed...

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Well, the past couple days have been good & bad. So, I guess the customary "bad news first" then: I spent most of yesterday working on an inlay idea for this build, that in the end...didnt work. It's not the end of the world, but a day in the shop with no results to show for it is never a good thing. I may re-visit the idea on Saturday.

On to the good then... :D I got my account set up with Dimarzio. I should have a dozen DP222 D-Activator-X pups with black magnets & yellow bobbins in a couple weeks. I also made some progress with the latout & other details. The first two pieces will have a B/O strat neck with a rosewood board on them to save time. Here is a quick mockup of the final neck design:

nukeneck.jpg

The set neck will have a smooth heel. It will have 1" wide caution bar stripes the length of the neck. I have officially dubbed the relic'd version of these the "U-235". Thanks to Rohan (ae3) for his blessing on useing that idea. I'd also like to thank Carl (Prostheta) for his willingness to let me copy part of his biohazard build inlay. Carl designed his biohazard piece with the caution bars on the 1st, 12th & 24th IIRC. I laser cut the inlays for him. Mine will be slightly different as they only fall on the 12th.

I am TRYING to wait for the pickups to get here before I paint. I want to match the yellow in the bobbins, so the body paint is the same shade. It will give me time to finish a couple other builds, and to concentrate on the inlay.

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What material is that cover? A pass or two with a butane torch might do the trick also if it's ABS or similar meltable plastics. If you have a big paintbrush similar in shape/size to a ladies blusher brush, dip the tips of the brush in silver paint, wipe the wet paint off with a rag and "dry brush" the cover with silver or whatever before clearing:

http://www.totalmodels.co.uk/workshop/page...kshop_259.shtml

Possibly a bronze or a gunmetal would work with the theme?

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Will both covers be stamped with U-235? I'm thinking that, if it wasn't your plan originally, having the bridge pickup cover stamped like you did and the neck just distressed with no stamping would look good. You could knock out more of the cover since you don't need to reserve space for the branding. Looking great, Doug!

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I think a well-polished/oiled board with the yellow stripes looks more consistent that with the black bits Doug. The black parts may make it look a little "paintjob" but that depends on how it ties with the rest of the design of course!

Make a pickup shaped form out of wood scrap, pop it under that cover and pop in a hot oven for a while. Let the cover degrade!! Spritz it with acetone? Give is some zazz with a sandblaster? Dry brush it with silver and a little rusty bronze...

Damn Doug - if I lived a little closer, there are so many crazy things i'd love to try with that setup of yours :-\z

Edited by Prostheta
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Come on over Carl....It's only 6221 km. :D Yea...I'm not 100% done with the covers. I still need to try a torch on them. I like the rusty bronze paint idea. The bodies will have some airbrushed rust, so that makes sense. I'll probobly work on them more when I paint the bodies.

The first 2 prototypes will have a rosewood board, so I needed the black in the inlay for contrast. With the ziricote boards, I could get away without the black. I wanted to use ebony on the black part of the inlay instead of plexi. But ebony doesnt cut as consistant in the laser. The thin outline around the yellow bars burned away. Here is a pic of the neck in the laser. I was cutting the rectangular 12th fret pocket. http://www.parableguitars.com/ptnuke/ptnuke6.jpg

I forstenered out the pockets for the nuke symbol dots. I hope to get the inlays glued in tonight. Here is where I'm at:

ptnuke7.jpg

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Ok...I've been fighting with this aspect of the build for a few days now. I've been working on the headstock art most of this morning. I'm useing an unfretted Allparts strat neck with no inlays for the first 2 prototypes. These are really nice necks, but I just cant get past the headstock shape. The actual run will have my HS shape, and will be painted. So, I decided to "melt away" part of the shape with leaking radioactive material. The green area in the mockup pic is a .125" thick clear inlay with an industrial strength glow material applied to the back. When charged with a light, it glows brightly for a good 10 min. I used this technique on an inlay I did for an October Guitars Doyle signature custom.

I'll need to incorporate a good amount in the body as well. I could also use a thin glow material under the melted pup cover.....conf40.gif

hsmockup.jpg

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well, i think from an artistic standpoint this is a good way to "cover up" the shape of the headstock on the prototype necks

the only thing i would do differently would make the shape a little less "melty" your implying its melted a lot already by the lines on the top of the gook; you don't need to sell it so much on the bottom if that makes any sense

anyways just my opinion; i wish i had the tools to build like you did! anyways, great work, managed to turn a cheesy concept into a rad guitar congrats

Kenny

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