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New 2/3 Scale Guitar


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After the success of my 4 string mini-guitar this past summer that I built for my god-son, I've decided to build another. (here's the thread for the first one: 4 string kids mini-guitar ) This time it will be for my first child. We're not pregnant yet, but intend to start trying within the next few months, so I figured I'd get a head start and start planning this thing out now. I've got a plan completed that shares some visual similarities with my previous attempt, but is a bit more sophisticated and less 'jaunty'.

I learned a lot from the last build that I will be incorporating into this build. I plan on making this one a six string rather than a 4 string, and using a purchased bridge instead of homemade, for greater adjustability.

I really only plan on starting to collect the wood for this build now, to let it acclimate to the shop. I will be starting the real work on it in a few months, once I get to the point of finishing up the loose ends on the two bass builds I have going on right now. The reason I'm posting so early is that I need a top! I posted this in the classifieds but have yet to get a response. If anyone has a flamed or quilted maple top or a piece of wood that can be re-sawed into one that would otherwise be too small for a regular guitar, please let me know! The dimensions I need, after bookmatching, are 10" x 13" x 1/2" (or 7/16). I'd prefer not to pay for a full sized top when I don't need it all, and thought one of you guys might have something lying around.

Here's a picture of the design for the new one:

OctaveGuitar-Design1copy.jpg

The plan is for a flamed/quilt maple top (as stated above) with a mahogany or possibly bloodwood back. The neck will probably be a combination of wenge and bloodwood, with either a bloodwood or macassar ebony fretboard (You can sense the theme here :D). Plans are, of course, subject to change as the mood strikes me. :D

Thanks for the help, guys!

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FYI, I ended up purchasing a flamed maple 'bass wing' from Fraser Valley Fine Woods. It was roughly the right size, if a bit too long and thick. However, I should be able to get 2 small-scale tops out of it as well as some neck stringers long enough for use in one of these small scale necks. I've purchased from Fraser Valley before, and they have good stuff. So, if anyone is looking for something odd like this, they would be worth checking out.

Edited by mattharris75
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Looks like you are onto something Matt. These small builds are definately cool. Do I see a mini doubleneck in the future? :D

He heh, now that's a great idea! :D

Actually, I may be asking you about doing some laser cut templates for this one. I really like this design, and I may want to make a handful of these, so simplifying/streamlining the process as much as possible would be good.

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  • 1 year later...

More work done on this one.

Got the scarf joint glued, the headstock sanded flush, and thicknessed the back of the headstock down to 10mm.

After that I cut the channel for the graphite stiffening rod.

I thicknessed a couple of 3mm thick flamed maple veneers out of the same wood as the top to use as the headstock veneer and backstrap (Picture 2). I plan on using a pipe bender to bend the end of the backstrap around the curve where the headstock meets the back of the neck. That will be my first attempt at heat bending, I'm looking forward to learning how to do it as I plan on building a mandolin as one of my next projects. :D

Tonight I glued the fretboard to the neck (Picture 1). I used West Systems epoxy, which is a lot easier to work with than titebond, in my opinion. Using epoxy also allowed me to glue in the graphite stiffening rod at the same time. Once I get the fretboard lined up I drill a couple of guide holes in the areas that can be cut away. I've found that bamboo skewers that you get at the grocery store work great as alignment pins (picture 3).

PICT0001.jpg

PICT0004-2.jpg

PICT0005.jpg

Edited by mattharris75
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Looking good Matt.

Belated congrats on the new addition to your family as well

Keep us posted on the mandolin project as well. I got an idea thrown at me yesterday to build one with a banjo like body--a banjolin as it were. The suggestion was to begin with a wood bodied drum and slice one end off to use as the body. :D

SR

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Well, I had hoped to accomplish quite a bit on the neck this weekend, but my sciatic nerve got the best of me. So I lost all day Saturday. Sucks getting old. :D

I did, however, get the headplate glued on and then pulled out the pipe bender and gave it a go.

I practiced on some walnut before trying it on the flamed maple. I'm certainly no pro after today, but I successfully bent the flamed maple backstrap. I just spritzed water on every so often and took my time, making sure not to apply too much pressure. Clearly there's quite an art to it, but this was good practice for bending the cocobolo binding for the body of this build, and later on for a mandolin rim. I've got it clamped to the back of the neck right now, until it dries out completely and I can glue it.

PICT0001-1.jpg

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With the backstrap glued on and most of the excess trimmed off the sides of the headplate/backstrap.

Looks great, going to be awesome once it's carved. I'm very happy with my first foray into wood bending!

Next up, safe-t-planing the back of the neck to final thickness and tapering the sides of the neck.

PICT0001-2.jpg

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Got the back of the neck thicknessed and rough cut the neck taper and the headstock. I'm going to put a slight taper on the back of the neck and route the final neck taper over the next week or so. Unfortunately I'll be out of town Saturday, so I may not be able to get that stuff done until the following weekend.

If you're wondering what the reason for the tape is, I like to draw my lines on the tape as it's easier to see than lines directly on the wood.

PICT0006.jpg

And the obligatory 'feet shot'. :D

BTW, that's an 18" ruler next to it, which gives you a sense of scale.

PICT0001-3.jpg

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I can't believe I forgot to take a neck clamp shot!

Well, I have gotten a bit more done. Got the neck tapered and routed the binding and purfling ledges. I put the binding and purfling on just to test the fit, as you can see in the picture below. The binding is bloodwood and the purfling is black/white/black. I believe I may have used the wrong bearing for the binding as it's perhaps .010 too narrow, leaving a tiny gap between the binding and the purfling. Should be an easy fix, though. Once that's taken care of I'll clean up the end of the channels next to the headstock with a chisel and glue the binding/purfling on.

I thought my neck blank would be wide enough for my headstock design without adding ears. I knew it would be a close call, but it was just a hair too narrow. I ended up modifying the headstock design a bit to fit, and I like it even better than the original. I've got it sanded down pretty close to final shape, I just need to finish blending it in to the rest of the neck.

KensleyGuitar-bindingandpurflingcha.jpg

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Thanks Chris!

I measured everything out today and discovered the problem with my binding ledge. I used a .070 bearing for .080 binding. The purfling is .040, and consequently it was sitting on a .050 ledge. Unfortunately it appears I only have .070 and .090 bearings, so I'll have to order a .080. The shipping will cost me as much as the bearing! But at least it's an easy fix.

On the other end of things, I made my first mistake of the build. I was attempting to route the body flush to the template and got some lovely tearout on the flame maple top. I ended up finishing things with a spindle sander just to be safe. Fortunately I should be able to patch it and route most of the patch away for the binding. The deepest area of the tearout is .130, and the binding/purfling will be .120, so it should be OK. Of course now I'm quite worried about my ability to successfully route the binding ledge in this maple.

Kensleyguitar-toptearout.jpg

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I received the proper bearing for the binding router bit today and re-routed the binding ledge to the correct width. The purfling snugged up just right. So, I went ahead and chiseled the headstock end of the channel that I couldn't reach with the router and glued the binding and purfling in on the first side. I'll glue up the other side tomorrow and then miter the ends and glue on the cross pieces at the end of the fretboard this weekend.

Not the greatest picture, but you get the idea.

PICT0002-2.jpg

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Very nice Matt. It's been a while since I checked in on this thread so congrats on the new addition. And btw, I haven't been making beer in a while so unfortunately there is no package on the way :D . I had to give it up when we had our kid a couple years ago. (Something had to go and it couldn't be guitar making).

Keep up the good work. It's going to be a nice guitar.

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Thanks, IPA. :D

Seeing as this is my 5th build, I feel a bit foolish asking this question, but I need some help.

Routing figured maple: what are the tricks?

I've got to do a binding/purfling ledge in the body and am quite paranoid now, after a blowout trying to route the body to the template. I was attempting a climb cut when it happened. I don't feel particularly comfortable with that technique, it just doesn't feel safe, so I won't be doing it again.

Obviously making many small passes is important. But what else?

Faster or slower bit speed?

Feed rate?

People mention wetting down figured maple before planing, would this be a good idea before routing as well?

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks guys!

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