farren Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 First post here... I'm a reasonably competent do-it-yourself type with a fair bit of experience modding guitars, mostly changing electronics and some minor wood-cutting. I recently bought a 7-string routed for EMG 707s... For those not familiar with them, EMG's 7-string pickups use a 3.5" x 1.5" perfectly rectangular rout. They actually use a bass pickup casing for them. Anyway, I abhor active pickups and will shortly replace them with a couple DiMarzios. In a few days, I'll have all the pots, pickups, etc. that I need to make the change, except for a pair of custom-made 7-string bezels which I'll ultimately use to mount the pickups. I'm having to have them fabricated because no one makes 7-string rings with an enlarged outside dimension capable of mounting the rings to the body of a guitar routed for EMGs (in other words, about 3.8" long), and they won't be done for a couple months. 7-string passive pickups, including the mounting tabs, unfortunately are 3.7" long. I'll need to cut approximately a 3/4" x 1/10" slot in each side of the pickup cavities to accommodate the mounting tabs so that I can temporarily direct-mount them as I wait for the proper bezels to be fabricated. It will look ugly in the meantime, but I'm not really worried about that... However, if there's some way I could make this actually look pretty (comparable to a guitar that's been fully routed prior to finishing), I'd be happy with keeping the pickups direct-mounted. I'll be cutting into Mahogany with a glossy polyurethane finish. My plan right now is to just use a dremel with a 3/4" sanding bit (with the finish taped down). I also have a drill press and could buy some routing bits if necessary. Basically, is there a way of cutting these tabs that wouldn't chip the finish at ALL and would result in an aesthetically pleasing direct mounted look? Or should I just get the job over with using the dremel and then install the mounting rings when they're finally finished? Either way, it will eventually look (and sound) great... It's just a matter of if I really need the bezels at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 I would go old school and buy a chisel then sand. Sanding that cavity is a time waster. You can also buy a router bit for the dremel, however without a guide it will be rough free handing the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farren Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 I don't mind wasting time as it's just something I'll do in my free time... Would it make sense to cut the top of the finish with a razor prior to the rest of the cutting, or would you use a chisel for that? I forgot to mention I'll also be cutting through a thin maple quilt... Also, I have a simple guide for my dremel, but would still be using my hands to steady it as opposed to a stabilized guide. I'm not very experienced at working with wood, so if this works out well, great, and if it doesn't, it's insignificant since I have the bezels coming anyway... In other words, I won't hold anyone responsible (but myself) if I screw up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 I don't mind wasting time as it's just something I'll do in my free time... Would it make sense to cut the top of the finish with a razor prior to the rest of the cutting, or would you use a chisel for that? I forgot to mention I'll also be cutting through a thin maple quilt... Also, I have a simple guide for my dremel, but would still be using my hands to steady it as opposed to a stabilized guide. I'm not very experienced at working with wood, so if this works out well, great, and if it doesn't, it's insignificant since I have the bezels coming anyway... In other words, I won't hold anyone responsible (but myself) if I screw up Because you are using a ring you have a fudge factor. Have ring in hand before you start so you know where your limits are. Most finishes are soft enough not to worry about massive cracking but it is a good idea to score around where you are working anyway since the results will be cleaner. If you must use a sanding drum buy lots of coarse paper. You can also remove most of the wood with a drill bit (brad point) first. If you have a drill press a Fostner bit is a perfect choice for this application as it is for most cavity work. The bottom line is what ever works for you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farren Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Ahh ok, so I guess it would probably be impossible to make it look nearly as perfect as a guitar that had been routed for direct mount passives prior to finishing. I kind of expected that. Thanks, I won't worry about it and will just count on the rings covering the cut and any minor damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 I'd just use a dremel with a base and a 2 flute bit. You can double side tape anything straight to use as a guide. mask of all of the area you are cutting. shouldn't have any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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