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Waterbase Lacquer.


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I guess I don't frequent the finishing chat forum enough. Forgot about this thread!

I recently posted a thread (here) asking about getting an Inca Silver/Firemist silver type finish with waterborne lacquers. It looks like the Auto-Air/Faskolor may be the way to go from some of the info you folks are posting here. Neither of these companies seem to make clear coats, however. Have any of you had success with top-coating these colors with KTM-9 or something similar?

No problems with KTM-9 on these.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm planning going with Auto-Air for my color coats, with a KTM-9 clear then, it looks. My normal method when using just KTM-9, either clear on wood, or with color coats made by mixing the colortone pigments in KTM-9, is to grain fill with epoxy (I've been using System-3, as I haven't even made it halfway through the bottle) first. On the maple topped bass, I shot KTM-9 direct on the wood as it didn't need a grainfill.

I'm planning on using close-grained woods that don't need a grainfill on the next build, so I'm thinking I don't need the epoxy layer. But should I be able to lay down my base-coats of Auto-Air right on the wood, starting with a base coat of their 4000 series, like the 4001 white sealer prior to my color coats, or should I prepare the wood with something else first before I move to that step?

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Basically, clear will lay out better over a layer of catalyzed clear than over basecoat.

So you clear, level sand and deal with any issues around 600 grit. Then lay on a single flowing coat of clear, you should have less orange peel etc that way. Many people who are good with the spray gun setup etc. deliver to the clients unbuffed then.

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I talked to Craig Kennedy recently, owner of Autoair/Createx they make Fascolor for Parma.

Here's the deal, Fascolor used to be the exact same stuff as autoair.

But as they have improved autoair a ton in the last few years for tip dry and flow etc... They have not at Parma's request improved the Fascolor.

Buy Autoair or Createx as long as its fresh its much better paint, much.

The labels have changed, I can't remember how though. If you buy from Coast Airbrush they only have the new stuff.

I spray it all the time through big guns or my detail guns as do several custom painters.

I would check before using a lacquer over it though with Autoair, it is formulated and tested for an automotive urethane system.

The difference being uro's will have a thinner film build and greater elasticity than lacquer if applied correctly.

These were done with autoair:

th_DSCF0352.jpg

and

DSCF0007-1.jpg

and

DSCF0018.jpg

and this

Ignore the solvent pop. I tried a can of alsa's killer cans clear and the very last pass the can went dry and....

DSCF0004.jpg

That tele with the whiteish flames. Do you use a mask for thr flames and then shade?

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Basically, clear will lay out better over a layer of catalyzed clear than over basecoat.

So you clear, level sand and deal with any issues around 600 grit. Then lay on a single flowing coat of clear, you should have less orange peel etc that way. Many people who are good with the spray gun setup etc. deliver to the clients unbuffed then.

Okay, cool. I guess I (vaguely) understood the concept, but wasn't familiar on the terminology. Better understanding of the concept now, though.

Thanks so much for the information, folks.

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