Keegan Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 (edited) Currently Planned Specs: Padouk/Walnut Bolt-On LP Body(1-3/4" thick) MIM Strat maple/rosewood neck Seymour Duncan Stag Mag bridge pickup Gotoh SG38 Tuners Schaller 475 top-mount bridge Corian nut Series/split/parallel switching, Master Volume, Master Tone(w/ switching for no-load/.0165uF/.033uF). Controls mounted on a Tele-style control plate Black/chrome hardware Progress Pictures: Lumber Top joined Rough-shaped body(quite a lot of sanding left, especially near the neck) Edit: Fixed a broken link Edited May 5, 2009 by Keegan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Yup, that one =P Just wait, it'll be even more gorgeous once it's finished. Hopefully that'll be before I go to college. I'd hate to leave you guys waiting that long though. I'm aiming for the beginning of summer. That is, if I don't start a second one before then, haha. I told my friend I'd build him his own guitar one day. I already have the body drawn, but there's no way I'll have the money to complete another one anytime soon. It's basically a slightly smaller Les Paul(24" scale neck, 17.5x12.25x1.5" body). It looks really good, now I want one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) Finally some more progress. Got the neck pocket cut, the edge rounded over, some rough sanding done, and started on inlaying the control plate. It'll only have 3 neck bolts because my dad sanded through where the 4th one would be(because he doesn't think I can do this myself and has to "help" me). I'll glue the neck in too so that it won't twist or anything from missing that one bolt. Edited April 3, 2009 by Keegan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Why don't you just move that bolt over a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Agreed. You can always use ferrules for the neck bolts, with no neck plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakhahn Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Agreed. You can always use ferrules for the neck bolts, with no neck plate. I like that idea. It would help keep a "clean" look and would give you an opportunity to do a nice contour at the neck for easier access if you so choose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Yeah, I'm already using ferrules. Hmm, I hadn't thought of just moving it. That seems glaringly obvious now. Also decided on a finish, Danish oil over some walnut stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Turn it into a curved "AANJ" and it will look like it was intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Hmm, I'll have to wait until I get the neck to figure out where to put the bolt. It'll be a Warmoth neck, so I have to watch out for the truss rod adjustment mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 (edited) Test finish so far: Waiting on a plate for the router so that I can use the inlay bushing set for the pickup and control cavity. The ball bearing router bit would be too much of a pain in the ass(and was for the neck, and forced me to take fewer passes than I was really comfortable with with that tiny little 3/8" bit from stewmac). Test fitted the neck off my old strat. It's snug and perfectly on-center. And the wood inserts I'm using to attach the neck are working well(though a pain to put into maple, I'm glad the neck will be softer) Edited April 6, 2009 by Keegan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I have to ask you something: Why in the he11 are you staining the wood?!?!?!?!?!?! Is there some unevenness in the color of the walnut? Do you not like the color of paduk? Do you not like the dark brown color the paduk will eventually turn to? My goodness man, these woods are beautiful in their natural state. I can't comprehend a reason to hide it behind stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Maybe he wants it darker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sand Paper Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I have to ask you something: Why in the he11 are you staining the wood?!?!?!?!?!?! Is there some unevenness in the color of the walnut? Do you not like the color of paduk? Do you not like the dark brown color the paduk will eventually turn to? My goodness man, these woods are beautiful in their natural state. I can't comprehend a reason to hide it behind stain. From someone who deals with refinishing furniture, I stain wood into that color range almost every day. People love that look for some reason. We go through gallons of red mahogany stain to a single quart of the other colors. With that said, I may be biased when I say that I think a better color choice could be made, but that's just me. Like said above I'd do some samples with just a clear over them and then see what I'm working with from that. Even just an amber color over those dark woods is going to add some depth and darkness to the color. From the pictures, that stain looks like it has a bit too much red in it for my taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I didn't realize there'd be such an uproar. I don't like the usual clear laquer over natural wood, I think it looks bland, but I also think solid colors are boring, so I chose to go inbetween and both color and clear finish it by using stains and a clearer topcoat. I've always liked stained/dyed wood more. Plus I like dark red on guitars, and just a plain finish over the walnut was too yellow. I don't think I'm going to end up staining the padouk though. The grain in the padouk has a sort of holographic effect in it that the stain removes some of. So far it has the most depth with poly over oil. The walnut is really unevenly colored and kind of green, and the finish without stain turns it into an atrocious yellow/green that's far too light. So so far the plan is 1-2 coats of stain on the back, 2-3 coats of oil on the whole thing, and maybe a coat of poly over that for hardness. I'm testing different polys to see if I like any of them. I have to ask you something, Avenger, WHY IN THE HELL DID YOU PUT A COUNTERTOP ON A GUITAR?! Because you liked it, obviously, and I like this kind of finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I can see it to even out the color of the walnut. I have a thing for the natural tones of some woods. When I see them covered up, it hurts my soul. In my mind, I think "Why would you choose that beautiful of a wood if you just wanted to cover it all up?" It doesn't make a lot of sense to me. You're right though - it's the way you want it, and that's good enough. I don't have to like it. We all have different aesthetic sensibilities, and yours is not mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Don't worry, I love the padouk too and don't want to cover it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sand Paper Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Don't worry, I love the padouk too and don't want to cover it up. Exactly, do whatever maximizes the look of the wood. I might experiment with two different stains for the back and top. You mentioned that the walnut has some green in it, so you can counter that with a more of a red/brown based stain. The top is red anyway just by it's self so you could go with something lighter to make it pop. I'd check out something with a lot of golden/amber color to it. I'd think that an amber tone would make everything pop without doing away with the natural tones of the wood. Definitely play around with some colors of stain and see what works. Buying $30 worth of stains for a test could have you end up with a finish that is priceless. Explore all options and never settle for less than awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 (edited) Here we go Now it goes from sort of a rosewood look All the way to bright orange This side was already pretty browned from sitting in the sun in the garage. After I let it cure for a few days I'll try out the poly. This body is huge. 6lb 3oz as it is. It's this walnut, it's like lead, heavy as hell and soft(fingernail into it is like a knife into butter). The padouk on the other hand is pretty hard, about as hard with oil as my mahogany LP is with lacquer. Edited April 6, 2009 by Keegan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 (edited) Got the pickup and control cavity routed and did most of the sanding to 320. Edit: I know everything looks off center, but I swear it's square, just not with the grain because apparently the padouk was cut/glued just a degree or so off of the grain. It all lines up with the glue joint at least. Oh well, I suppose it would have been silly for me to expect my first build to be perfect. Next time I'll definitely make a better/more complete template and do everything from it. I've learned a lot of things I can do better next time at least. Has anyone here tried an EMG 89? Edited April 13, 2009 by Keegan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Has anyone here tried an EMG 89? Not being a butt here or anything, but... The 89 is the standard bridge EMG humbucker, and has been for the last 25+ years. It's pretty well documented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Nevermind, I think the SD P-rails are what I'm looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 I'd like to test drive a set a set of p-rails. Reports say that they do an adequate job at mimicking all three pup types, but don't nail down any of them. I don't doubt for a minute that there's a LOT of give & take in there with the different coil voicings. Another I'd love to hear are the Lace Alumitones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted April 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 I'm looking for something with 2 or 3 pretty solid sounds, so I can have stock tele switching. I can't find any decent blank tele control plates(the ones from guitarfetish have the gold painted on) so I want to stick with stock. I want something for clean sounds primarily. I hate shopping for pickups though. So many kinds...and so much lying about what they're like. Do you know of a better splittable humbucker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 It's looking good, Keegan. Incidentally, my current project will be using P-Rails. I'm excited to hear what they'll sound like, but you'll probably finish long before me. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 14, 2009 Report Share Posted April 14, 2009 Do you know of a better splittable humbucker? Any given 4 wire HB is able to be split. Try using a 4-position switch. If you wire it up right, you'd be able to get the North coil, South coil, both in series, and both parallel. If you're REALLY good with the wiring, you could put a push/pull on one pot to put one coil out of phase. 6 sounds from one pickup, all subtly different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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