low end fuzz Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 im wondering what you guys find to be the best type of blade for cutting pearl? specifically circular type shapes with lil edges and stuff; the reason i ask.... ive used 2 styles with sucsess; all teeny tiny lil blades, one with all the blades pointing one way (i.e. down when in use) and a staggard type (dont know tech. name) every 3rd tooth or so is flipped ; apparantly to help on the upswing! but i find going around in a cicular fashion the blade gets caught and kinda twists wich leads to breaking; on my scroll saw if i was to do something in this pattern (much larger mind you) i would use those blades that were like spirals, with teeth every direction, even when you were cutting forward it was still freeing up space around back; anything like that in a jeweller style blade? something where the idea would be there, but not like chunks ripping out of pieces you already cut? thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 I'm going to be starting my first non-dot inlays tonight using a jeweler's saw with the blades they recommended on OLF, so I can't offer any advice on this, but are you using an electric scroll saw or a jeweler's saw? Best, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSuttle Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Well I personally like the teeth in one direction 02 blades. But since I haven't tried that many different types, not sure if that is the best. I just tried some until I found something I like that then stuck with them for good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batfink Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I'm the same as Cliff. Standard teeth down Gold Shark 2/0's with some 3/0 for laminates and recon stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 if i tried to cut pearl with a scroll saw, i would hope someone would just shoot me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Hey, 2/0, that's what I'm using. Swiss Platinum blades. They seem to work well. I got distracted and broke the first one, but other than that, no problems so far. Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 +1 2/0 Pike Brand Blades. You have to be consistant with your arm movement. Blades break it's they way it is. Probably why the sell them by the gross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Well, the support board I was using was 5/4 and no hole, just a slot. So when I looked up to watch TV and tilted the saw . . . splinnnk. Dit it twice last night, so I'll change it to 1/4" plywood and drill a 1/4" hole too. Should have ordered more than 24 blades! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Well, the support board I was using was 5/4 and no hole, just a slot. So when I looked up to watch TV and tilted the saw . . . splinnnk. Dit it twice last night, so I'll change it to 1/4" plywood and drill a 1/4" hole too. Should have ordered more than 24 blades! Todd The Board I use has a narrow V to a hole 1/2" thick. The hole is not too big. I rarely use the hole and mostly cut at the lower end of the V. But this a personal thing and your method may differ. Blade breakage is due to twist, heat and speed sawing. At least thats what I have done to break blades. TV is not a good idea, try music. Also 24 blades should last for awhile depends on how much shell you are cutting. Remember shell dust is toxic best done in a shop and not in your home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 T.V??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Yeah, I was only cutting out pieces that would be turned into dots to start, so I was watching TV at the same time. If I let the blade/saw tilt while in the slot it broke the blade. Did it twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Pike or other swiss blades, 3/0 for normal work, 2/0 for coarser stuff, 4/0 for fine, fine lines. No lube, just throw them out when they break or feel dull. They're plenty cheap if you buy them by the gross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibsonboy Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 anybody ever used a dremell , those thin cutting disc look good for the job, but was wondering if anyones ever used one on m.o.p or abalone, im just about to start and mop and abalone faced flying v project, alternate mop/abalone rings in a bullseye, so lots of shell blanks to cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSuttle Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 anybody ever used a dremell , those thin cutting disc look good for the job, but was wondering if anyones ever used one on m.o.p or abalone, im just about to start and mop and abalone faced flying v project, alternate mop/abalone rings in a bullseye, so lots of shell blanks to cut. I can't imagine being able to get the kind of accuracy you need with that sort of tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I used a dremel for my first inlay job - large hearts, not quite as big as LP block markers, but similar, getting smaller going down the board. Not much accuracy needed, so I just sort of rough cut chunks to make the hearts out of, and cut away the excess pearl leaving myself the finished shape. It worked, but it was very wasteful! And if you weren't careful, the dremel would grab the pearl and chip bits off or shatter the whole darn thing quite easily. It's functional, and possibly quicker, but given the price of nice pearl, I'd like to save as much as possible. It doesn't take that much longer to use a proper jewelers saw, and you'll most likely have better results. And a jewelers saw ain't that expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 anybody ever used a dremell , those thin cutting disc look good for the job, but was wondering if anyones ever used one on m.o.p or abalone, im just about to start and mop and abalone faced flying v project, alternate mop/abalone rings in a bullseye, so lots of shell blanks to cut. I imagine it would be tantamount to cutting the body shape with a chainsaw. Shell out the 15 bucks for a jeweler's saw, you can find them at hobby shops or bead shops. Get it? "Shell"? Ha! Sorry, it's early... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I believe I remember someone who used a jewelers circular saw blade on a drill press. The pearl was glued to a board and the board passed against the blade. he adjusted the blade height to cut thin binding slices and straight edged inlays. As far as dots go sawing is a waste of time as most dots are reasonably priced. Another method I and others have used is to buy a set of diamond hole saws, Crazy glue down a sheet of MOP and drill out the dots. You will have to find the best drill bit after you cut the dots as the internal size will vary for each bit. I have also used these to cut other materials into dots. You material must be glued down or it will get sucked up inside the hole saw. Using a crazy glue remover will work for removing the dots or acetone may also work. If the pearl is thick you may be able to pop them off the wood with a chisel. Promising set of Diamond Hole Drills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 So I broke 5 blades last night, and decided to order a gross more. I broke 2 just putting them in the saw and tightening the screws to hold it. So I did some research and thought it might be worth posting what I found out. Seems the Swiss Platinum blades I got are super hard temper blades. The site I learned it on said Herkule blades are also hard temper blades. Pike blades are supposed to be a softer temper and easier to use without breaking. So I ordered a gross of the Pike blades in 2/0 and size 4 for $14+$2s&h each. E-bay seller with lots of the pike blades. It was about $10 less per gross than anyplace else I found and $2 for S&H was great. Oh, and I got the size 4 blades to cut strait lines on letters I'm cutting out. SO it seems the recommendations on Pike are good ones because they're harder to break, and brands are different. Regards, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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