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Multi-scale 7 String Sd7


Kenny
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Update:

So I've been out of my shop for a while since I've been really busy with school and other things, but I got back in this week and got a lot of work done on this guitar and some other projects.

I don't recall what I last posted but this is what I have done

- Took about .75" off of body thickness bringing it to 2 inches after top is carved

- Made a new fretboard (old one was destroyed in a terrible router radiusing accident.... RIP....)

- Inlayed board

- Radiused new board (I made a new jig since i was so paranoid from...well...I don't want to talk about it...)

- Angled headstock to accommodate for slanted nut

- Glued on fretboard

- Glued on maple cap for headstock

- Filed out slot for nut

- Shaped most of the neck and volute (in the 2nd picture you can see how towards the heel I didn't shape as much yet since I don't know how I'm doing to do the transition to the body)

- Side dots

- Routed neck cavity

- Routed pickup cavities

- Drilled electronics/string holes

- Carved out the "Belly Carve"

- Cut all frets to final length, in preperation for "semi-hemi/quarter spherical/bullet fret ends"

So here is where I am:

I'm gonna do final sanding on fretboard, then fret the neck

When I was routing the neck pocket I made a stupid mistake and had the neck placed too far into the body (the holes had already been drilled for the bridge); luckily when the neck was slid back into the position its supposed to sit it fits near perfectly. To compensate for a 4th contact point being lost i'm gluing the neck with WS epoxy and am filling in the extra neck cavity :D

Also when i was drilling the holes for the strings/bridge the bit twisted inside the body and came out crooked in the back regardless of how slow I went and how many times i backed out to clear the hole....so to remedy this i filled the holes with epoxy and tried again....exact same results...any ideas on how to fix/cover this?

Also how should I do the heel transition, I'm considering two things, the first one how it is right now, the heel just follows the shape of the body (but its strange becuase where the lower strings are ends abruptly); Or a Myka style transition, what do you think?

Now to some pics; enjoy B)

hpim0865.jpg

hpim0864l.jpg

hpim0860.jpg

hpim0875v.jpg

Here are some other pics

EDIT: on the first picture it looks like the pickup routes are uneven, I assure you thats just an illusion :D

Kenny

Edited by Kenny
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I kind of want to see another inlay on the first fret, but that's probably just me.

Really digging this. When I was contemplating a fanned fret, I was wondering how my inlays would work angled like this. I'm not thinking it'd be so weird seeing these done that way.

Very cool!

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so im going to go pick up an angle grinder for 20 bucks today...gotta love craigslist

anyways anyone got any tips on using it so i can minimize the learning curve?

Kenny

looking good Kenny, is the angle grinder for the heal contour? 1st time I tried it was on my JS copy, make sure your use the screw in handle if its got one, go really gently, practice, it just chews wood away so fast & try to keep smooth flowing motions. Have fun & be careful.

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Just don't angle it on the edge too much because it can literally gouge deep into the edge, just keep it at a reasonable angle, go slow, look at your piece several times on your first time using it. You should have a lock for power on it, where you can turn it on and lock it so it stays on, this helps in control instead of having to hold a button to keep it on. Also just like most any other carve, draw out your lines. It'd be a good idea to try it on some scrap first because it can take an amazing amount of wood off in a short amount of time, but as Rick said it doesn't take long at all to get the feel for it, so within 5 minutes of practice you should feel confortable enough to start, I'm sure that figured maple is soft, so just go slow, not too much pressure and I'm sure you'll be good to go. Anyhow, nice work Kenny, its looking very nice, look forward to seeing how this one finishes up. BTW- you can pick up some flap discs pretty cheap at home depot, you may want to try a few different grits and see what works best for you, I forget off hand what I used last, maybe 120 grit? Not a 100% sure. I believe I was even surprised at how much it took off even at 120. J

Maiden: LOL I kid you not that is exactly what I said word for word when I first looked at the belly carve, though Kenny is skinny and it looks good. HOwever for my fat gut I need the carve from the upper horn to where the down past the electronics cavity, hey at least that means my guitar is lighter.

Edited by jmrentis
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well, ive been known to be blown away by a strong wind :-p

anyways i went on craigslist, saw an angle grinder for 20 bucks i talked to the girl and she said, come to college ave...so i immediately think close to my school (for all the San Diego people) turns out she was in vista....and hour or so away

since i dont have any other experiences with angle grinders i dont have anything to compare this one to, but i can say with certainty that the disc isnt supposed to wear as fast as it did!

anyways this is what i have so far (still need to touch up)

hpim0880l.jpg

hpim0881y.jpg

I still need to refine the carve more, but i need your guys' opinions. Do you think it would look better if i rounded them out and to make it look subtle or keep it as is?

Kenny

EDIT: i was wrong when i said the body thickness was 2 inches on the edge, its 1.75 inches total, 1.5" on the edge

Edited by Kenny
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Looking good - I really like the body shape - but definitely smooth out the carve. It's your guitar, but I personally hate the "flattop plateau" look - it just looks like a bit of unfinished business IMO. You can still keep it flat where the bridge will go but smooth over and blend in the edges of the "plateau".

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