Tru Oil Over Dye

[boundsteelblues]

I know someone will say search the forum, but I've searched and read so much online I'm getting lost. I just need some clear advice. I dyed my guitar body with an aniline dye made by BASF in their Basantol line. I used it reduce with a 50/50 alcohol/lacquer thinner mixture.

Can I finish it with tru-oil? I know the tru-oil will impart an amber tint, but I tested on a scrap piece and the color is still ok.

I don't want dye rubbing off later. Will the tru-oil be enough or do I need to seal? What do I seal with? What seal can I use tru-oil over?

My plan had been to use tru-oil and then creamed beeswax. I had read this formula somewhere online - dye/tru-oil/beeswax. However, it seems like I can read just as much saying this is a bad idea? I used Tru-oil on the neck natural and was really happy.

If not tru-oil, what would you suggest?

I appreciate the feedback.

[dpm99]

I've used it successfully over TransTint dyes. I'm not sure if that's helpful or not, as I don't know a lot about the dye, but there ya go.

[boundsteelblues]

Thanks for the comment. These dyes are like Transtints from what I have read.

In one place, I read to do 3 coats of Tru-oil before sanding back lightly with 4/0 steel wool. They used 9 coats of Tru-oil and sanded back after every other coat from 3 to the end. My assumption was that waiting to sand back was to not lift color, but to build up a coat first. Any thoughts on this method from anyone?

[Quarter]

Tru Oil builds in very thin coats, so if over a dye, you do want several coats to build a film before cutting it back.

I do 3 - 4 light coats a day, then wool it down the next day before that days sessions. Lots of thin coats works best for me.

It would not hurt to initialy coat your test piece along with your main piece as you go. Try the wool on the test piece first to see if you have enough film before you go after the main work.