Donovan Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I have this 98 American Std strat that I bought new back when I was a "kid" or at least when I cared less about my gear than I do now. I installed the LSR roller nut shortly after the purchase. I did not use the proper tools, but rather went to town with a simple woodworking file. The result is jagged, rough edges. Although I do feel I get a tuning benefit from the nut (and I'd never remove it from my main guitar which came with it OEM installed, I also have a suspicion that the the LSR roller nut kills off some sustain. As you know if you've ever had one of these, the LSR roller nut requires widening the nut slot. I'm not sure of the exact width of the new slot, but I'd say it is somewhere between 2X and 3X the width of a stock nut. Lately, I've been wanting to return this guitar to a more classic look and functionality, reversing many of the things (abuse) I've subjected it to in the past. The biggest eyesore for me is the shoddy installation job I've done on the LSR nut. So, my question is, before I go calling around, is it reasonable to think that a decent luthier could fashion a new nut made of bone (or some other material, suggestions)? Again, the slot is 2X to 3X wider than "normal". I would expect the slot to be "cleaned up", preferably by machine, as well, further oversizing it. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I'm thinking you could double up and put two nuts of your material choice next to each other in the same slot. That's probably what a luthier would do when they are done cleaning up the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 the slot is 2X to 3X wider than "normal". A Fender nut is 1/8" a martin nut is about 1/4". Get out a ruler and measure, nut specs are listed by every seller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 So, my question is, before I go calling around, is it reasonable to think that a decent luthier could fashion a new nut made of bone (or some other material, suggestions)? The answer to your question is yes. Depending on the fretboard, a decent luthier could probably do some sort of fill job with wood as well. It might not be perfect, but it could be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Sounds like the wilkinson roller nut fender used before going to the smaller LSR. I have that on my Strat Plus, which was made in 88 I think. It's at a friends house so I'm not sure. The LSR is actually only a touch bigger than a stock nut, and comes with a small adapter to let you fit it into the wilkinson roller nut cut out. If it is just the smaller LSR roller nut, look at earvana's site, I think they have a drop in replacement. If it's the bigger wilkinson roller nut, you need to make something like that piece that comes with the LSR. As to sustain, neither I, nor anybody who has ever played my strat, thought it sustained less than a standard strat (or at least nobody ever said they did), but that might be due to the Lace sensors and the fact that it's fairly heavy for an alder body. Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 If I am not mistaken, the LSR nut is wider towards the bridge. (the distance from the first frete slot to the nut slot is shorter) This means you can't just add a thicker nut because intonation will be off by that much. A Fender nut is about 1/8" thick, so you need to keep that distance from the front of the nut slot back. In other words, if you used a 1/4" thick nut to fill the space, it would have to be stepped. A good luthier should be able to handle it honestly. The tough part is fixing the slot. There's a lot of ways to do that. It just depends on the person which method they are familiar with. I agree with the previous post about sustain... -Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 If I am not mistaken, the LSR nut is wider towards the bridge. (the distance from the first frete slot to the nut slot is shorter) This means you can't just add a thicker nut because intonation will be off by that much. A Fender nut is about 1/8" thick, so you need to keep that distance from the front of the nut slot back. In other words, if you used a 1/4" thick nut to fill the space, it would have to be stepped. A good luthier should be able to handle it honestly. The tough part is fixing the slot. There's a lot of ways to do that. It just depends on the person which method they are familiar with. I agree with the previous post about sustain... -Doug The instructins state the LSR nut is flush with the original nut slot. Instructions Link. I had no idea either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 See... that's what I get for not being a Fender neck specialist... Though it's been a while, I read carefully the PDF you linked to (actually have an original hard copy from Fender) and for "new installs" it states "you will be routing .091"into the fretboard toward the frets". Quite clear. -doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 What did you expect me to do read the PDF too?? You are right, I just glanced at the picture who knew the artist draws backward, LOL I'm bad. Man if you cant build using pictures what good are the instructions. Seems like Mr D should consult a professional. Oh wait that would be the people on this forum??? You still there Mr D???????????? Cutting a shelf 3/32" in a nut is a bit of a pain if you dont have something like a mill. Hopefully the rear of the original slot is still intact. Install a fender nut and just fill in the fingerboard seems the easiest thing to do. If Mr D needs a custom nut, I sell nuts and have a mill, easy enough to make up a custom nut for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Hey Spoke, it's a pain, but I think an oportunity too. Donovan could use that extra space and compensate the nut. So it will look intentional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donovan Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 What did you expect me to do read the PDF too?? You are right, I just glanced at the picture who knew the artist draws backward, LOL I'm bad. Man if you cant build using pictures what good are the instructions. Seems like Mr D should consult a professional. Oh wait that would be the people on this forum??? You still there Mr D???????????? Cutting a shelf 3/32" in a nut is a bit of a pain if you dont have something like a mill. Hopefully the rear of the original slot is still intact. Install a fender nut and just fill in the fingerboard seems the easiest thing to do. If Mr D needs a custom nut, I sell nuts and have a mill, easy enough to make up a custom nut for you. Yes, I am still here. To be honest, it was so long ago (ten + years) that I don't know what is left of the original slot. I don't recall which direcion I widened the slot in, but I know I did follow directions, I just didn't do it neatly or with the correct tools. I am interested in a custom nut. What are the possibilities and how would we handle this? Would I ship the guitar or neck to you or would I have to have the slot re-routed/cleaned up? I am looking for a "one-stop" solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donovan Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hey Spoke, it's a pain, but I think an oportunity too. Donovan could use that extra space and compensate the nut. So it will look intentional. Now that is really a good idea. I've never played one of these... supposed to make intonation more "correct", right? One thing I should also mention, the slot may not be rxactly where it should be. I've always had a hard time getting the low E string to intonate properly. As a result, I've clipped the spring on its saddle to half length to get a little more distance out of it, so I guess this means that perhaps the new nut needs to be slightly further from the bridge. I appreciate the comments on this. Thanks to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hey Spoke, it's a pain, but I think an oportunity too. Donovan could use that extra space and compensate the nut. So it will look intentional. Now that is really a good idea. I've never played one of these... supposed to make intonation more "correct", right? One thing I should also mention, the slot may not be rxactly where it should be. I've always had a hard time getting the low E string to intonate properly. As a result, I've clipped the spring on its saddle to half length to get a little more distance out of it, so I guess this means that perhaps the new nut needs to be slightly further from the bridge. I appreciate the comments on this. Thanks to all. If you want to compensate the nut I have not done that before so you are on your own. I am still willing to help. Maybe we can just swap modified nut for Roller nut and call it even. Again if you want to go in this direction. But in order to fit it measurements would be needed so I know what you will need. Assuming the rear of the nut slot is still intact the job is an easy one. My templates show about 1 1/2" from the first fret to the rear of the nut slot or more precisely 1.533". A fret calc and adding .125 would be even more accurate. Assume if the distance is a hair over 1 1/2" you are original. In that case an easy mod. PM me if you want to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donovan Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Assuming the rear of the nut slot is still intact the job is an easy one. My templates show about 1 1/2" from the first fret to the rear of the nut slot or more precisely 1.533". A fret calc and adding .125 would be even more accurate. Assume if the distance is a hair over 1 1/2" you are original. Not to sound a dumba$$, but is the headstock end or the bridge end the "rear"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Assuming the rear of the nut slot is still intact the job is an easy one. My templates show about 1 1/2" from the first fret to the rear of the nut slot or more precisely 1.533". A fret calc and adding .125 would be even more accurate. Assume if the distance is a hair over 1 1/2" you are original. Not to sound a dumba$$, but is the headstock end or the bridge end the "rear"? I would not consider the headstock side of the nut the front would you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.