aggravated_alien Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 A have a few questions about routing bindings and purflings. If a guitar already has binding does it need to be removed or is it ok to rout purflings with the binding still attached. Does a Dremel tool have enough juice for this sort of thing. What Size routing bits do I need for routing bindings purflings and inlay. Do I need to attach a wedge to correct the router angle problem or is that only and issue with bodies. At he moment I only have a Dremel but I am going to buy a router base and some bits Is their anything else I need that I might not know about besides glue and binding and purfling material. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 If a guitar already has binding does it need to be removed or is it ok to rout purflings with the binding still attached. You probably won't be in danger so long as you're leaving a strip of wood between the purfling & the binding. Should you tough the binding with the bit, there COULD be trouble. Does a Dremel tool have enough juice for this sort of thing. Too many variables: which Dremel model, what type of wood, width of channel, quality of bit... What Size routing bits do I need for routing bindings purflings and inlay. Are you wanting to do it in one pass or multiple? Do I need to attach a wedge to correct the router angle problem or is that only and issue with bodies. IIRC, Stew-Mac (and others) have a product to address this issue. Is their anything else I need that I might not know about besides glue and binding and purfling material. Does the guitar currently have a finish on it? If so, you should refinish the area. Get "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner and read it 46 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aggravated_alien Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) If a guitar already has binding does it need to be removed or is it ok to rout purflings with the binding still attached. You probably won't be in danger so long as you're leaving a strip of wood between the purfling & the binding. Should you tough the binding with the bit, there COULD be trouble. Ok Thanks Does a Dremel tool have enough juice for this sort of thing. Too many variables: which Dremel model, what type of wood, width of channel, quality of bit... 400i Digital , Maple and Rosewood , 5 mm including Purfling , Carbide What Size routing bits do I need for routing bindings purflings and inlay. Are you wanting to do it in one pass or multiple? About 3 Passes. Do I need to attach a wedge to correct the router angle problem or is that only and issue with bodies. IIRC, Stew-Mac (and others) have a product to address this issue. Sorry that didn't really answer my question. Is their anything else I need that I might not know about besides glue and binding and purfling material. Does the guitar currently have a finish on it? If so, you should refinish the area. Get "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner and read it 46 times. How do this compare to Finishing Step By Step Edited April 22, 2009 by aggravated_alien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 I've never read it, so I can't say. But... I don't believe Stew-Mac would put out a book on guitar finishing that would have bad info in it. FWIW: Flexner's book is about the same price, but covers a LOT more info and territory than just finishing guitars. If you ever plan on doing any woodworking besides on guitars, get Flexner. Otherwise, I'm sure you'd be fine with Stew-Mac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aggravated_alien Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 I've never read it, so I can't say. But... I don't believe Stew-Mac would put out a book on guitar finishing that would have bad info in it. FWIW: Flexner's book is about the same price, but covers a LOT more info and territory than just finishing guitars. If you ever plan on doing any woodworking besides on guitars, get Flexner. Otherwise, I'm sure you'd be fine with Stew-Mac. Thanks for that. What about the routing questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Didn't see your responses - mixed in with mine. The 400 series is the most powerful they have, so if it won't do the trick through maple & rosewood, you're SOL. The carbide bits should do fine. When routing with a dremel, you HAVE to remember that it's basically a craft tool. The motor isn't designed to handle huge amounts of stress. If you do the routes too deep or try to force it to go through the wood faster than it wants to, you'll dork up the whole thing and risk burning out the tool. That being said, it's not only feasible to do inlay with a dremel, but it's done regularly and with great success. This is one of those crafts that it's really good at. You just have to be very aware of the limitations and capabilities of the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 A have a few questions about routing bindings and purflings. If a guitar already has binding does it need to be removed or is it ok to rout purflings with the binding still attached. Does a Dremel tool have enough juice for this sort of thing. What Size routing bits do I need for routing bindings purflings and inlay. Do I need to attach a wedge to correct the router angle problem or is that only and issue with bodies. At he moment I only have a Dremel but I am going to buy a router base and some bits Is their anything else I need that I might not know about besides glue and binding and purfling material. Thanks Where are you installing the purfling and what material is it? If you're using shell or a wide material then I would start the purfling and binding from scratch to get a better end product with less messing around. If there is a smallish gap between the binding and the purfling-to-be is small, there is the risk of easy chipout using a Dremel tool as there is some small grain created in there, and small mistakes can leave a big problem. Personally, I would reconsider the tool choice instead use a manual purfling cutter. You can take all the time in the world to get it right the first time, and without rebinding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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