Small Warp...

[Vladx]

Hi all, going straight to point.. so I have nice peace of walnut for neck that I planing to build, but the thing is, its little warped as you can see on images:

here, here and here

So, can truss rod fix this problem? if not, what should I do with it to straight it?

Thx

[ihocky2]

Truss rods will not take out a twist. You can try using a jointer to remove material to flatten the board again. But after that I would wait several months until I used it again. Just to see how the wood reacts. If it twists again, scrap it, as it will be reaction wood that just won't be stable enough for a neck. If it doesn't move, then you're okay. I would still consider carbon fiber rods in it, just to be safe down the future.

[NotYou]

There's a plus to warped wood: once it's warped, it usually won't warp anymore.

If you have access to a stationary planer, just give it a pass or two and it should be fine. You can hand plane it too, but that's not as fun.

Edited April 22, 2009 by NotYou

[dugg]

"but that's not as fun. "

Hey buddy, dem's fightin' words!

[NotYou]

"but that's not as fun. "

Hey buddy, dem's fightin' words!

LOL. I actually love using hand tools. Recently, though, I got access to a HUGE planer and I'm in love with it. Jobs that used to take me forever now take a couple minutes. It's not so much fun for me as it is amazing. When I used it the first time I felt like Tom Hanks in Cast Away when he gets back to main land and everything that he had to struggle for on the island is readily prepared for him. I was just stunned. I wanted to plane wood that I had no use for just so I could watch it happen.

[jaycee]

There's a plus to warped wood: once it's warped, it usually won't warp anymore.

Still be carefull as this is not allways the case. I have had timber that had a twist / warp in it and ran it through the planer until it was dead flat only to find a while later it had returned.

Some wood will twist because it has to, you may have a piece of 6x3 for example with a twist in it, only the twist hasn't shown up because there is to much wood preventing it from twisting, once some of the stock is removed the pressure from the twist is greater than that from the wood and so it will twist to a point and stop, then the whole process will happen again until the piece has twisted up to the point where it doesn't want to move anymore.

[WezV]

a truss rod will not correct for warped wood, its designed to correct for the effects of string pressure.

you want you wood flat and square before starting so it needs planing till it is. personally i would then give this piece a while to see if it still wants to move

[Woodenspoke]

There's a plus to warped wood: once it's warped, it usually won't warp anymore.

I have never met a piece of wood that agreed with that statement.

[MiKro]

There's a plus to warped wood: once it's warped, it usually won't warp anymore.

I have never met a piece of wood that agreed with that statement.

+1

Plane it some and you'll see that it will change again.

[NotYou]

Really? I must be lucky then. Unless a piece is thin, once settles into a shape, it usually won't move anymore for me. It's not something I rely on, but it's just something I've noticed.

I guess you can ignore my advice on this one then.

[ihocky2]

Remember, there is a difference between a warp or twist from reaction wood and a cup or a bow that occurs from drying. Some movement is normal while that wood is drying, the cells are shrinking and the wood moves with it. But that is usually a fairly well known percentage of movement for each species. Once properly dried, working it flat won't usually result in more movement. Reaction wood has built up stress inside from the way the tree grew. No matter what you do, that wood will always move as you work with it, until all of the stress is out (which is usually never).

[NotYou]

Remember, there is a difference between a warp or twist from reaction wood and a cup or a bow that occurs from drying. Some movement is normal while that wood is drying, the cells are shrinking and the wood moves with it. But that is usually a fairly well known percentage of movement for each species. Once properly dried, working it flat won't usually result in more movement. Reaction wood has built up stress inside from the way the tree grew. No matter what you do, that wood will always move as you work with it, until all of the stress is out (which is usually never).

Okay, that's more along the lines of what I was talking about. If a board is moving when it's drying, I usually don't worry about it much because I know it'll only go so far if I have it stored properly. After that, if I just leave it on the shelf, it won't move any more.

So I retract my last statement. My advice still stands.

When you're working with it, things are different. I had a piece of goncalo alves that was stressed and trying to bend so much that it practically blew apart when I cut it.

Edited April 24, 2009 by NotYou

[Vladx]

Appreciate for advices, I'll try something.. Thanks