fookgub Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 My latest neck has a two-way truss rod from Allied Lutherie installed in a tight-fitting channel. I didn't use any caulk to seat the truss rod when I glued the fingerboard on, thinking that a little wood glue would inevitably find its way into the channel and take care of the rod for me. Apparently that didn't happen, and the truss rod rattles loudly when I knock on the neck. Applying tension to the rod takes care of the rattling at the heel end, but the nut end rattles regardless of the tension applied. The neck is currently uncarved and the fingerboard is not radiused. Should I continue building the neck and see what happens, or should I try to fix it immediately? If I try to fix it, what is the recommended course of action? I really would like to avoid removing the fingerboard, as I've had a lot of trouble getting a seamless glue joint when reattaching the board. I am considering this technique from Frank Ford, but I'm not exactly sure how to attack it. Has anyone tried this? What are the caveats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 personally i wouldnt worry about it till you know what happens when its strung up and in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I would try that method but I think removing it might be the only way. That's only if it is bad enough to bother you that much if it was only a little when you knocked the neck I wouldn't worry about it. You should have used caulk though and you don't want any glue to in the slot because it could glue the truss rod in and make it unusable or impossible hard to get out if ever needed. I put caul on in 3 different places put in the truss rod them take a piece of masking tape to put over the truss trod and spread the glue on then take off the masking tape and glue on the fingerboard. I have managed to get seamless glue lines after removing the board but it is not very easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Is it just me, or does the 2nd technique in that link seem a bit hackey? I agree w/ Wez. See what happens when it's strung up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 You can always remove an inlay and drill down to the rod. Then add some caulk (100% silicon is best followed by polyurethane). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaden Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 ive had this problem, it ruined the neck because the rod would vibrate at certain frequencies. you do need to sort it spoke, that was also because i didnt caulk. the only way to be sure is to remove the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 +1 on let it be for now. If you have to put the truss rod under pressure, it won't be an issue anyway, and you can always use that method later. It looks like a good way to fix it. For what it's worth, I don't like to use caulk for my truss rod. I wrap it in Saran Wrap instead. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 For what it's worth, I don't like to use caulk for my truss rod. I wrap it in Saran Wrap instead. -Dave Makes it loads easier to avoid getting glue on the rod as well. Seems to work quite well all around. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 I also use saran wrap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Or if your in the UK Cling Film Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 I also use saran wrap... since i heard you say that like a year ago; i tried t once and then everytime since! that is such an awesome tip!; it keeps the rod snug (you can litterally press fit it w/o doing any damage cause that thin saran adds just a little past perfect fit) and keeps glue off of it and its threads; never thanked you for that one Wes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 I use the hotrods and I wrap each end with a covering of teflon tape. It makes the rod press fit and I've never had a rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 I use the hotrods and I wrap each end with a covering of teflon tape. It makes the rod press fit and I've never had a rattle. Nice tip on the teflon tape. Thanks. I've been meaning to try the saran-wrap thing for a while. I actually would have used it on this neck, but it slipped my mind. Anyway, I'm going to keep working on the neck and just hope the rod sorts itself out when it's under string tension. If not, I'm sure I'll be able to find some way to fix it. This is actually the second neck for this particular instrument. The first one got hosed in, oddly enough, a fingerboard gluing mishap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigM555 Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 I've never done it but I seem to remember hearing about melting wax and dripping it into the channel from an open end. Most likely from the end that seems to be rattling if possible. Seems like it should work. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 I can't see the wax working on a built neck since there is no way the wax is going to stay liquid long enough to work deep into the neck from the adjustment end. And I would be very afraid of dripping wax into the channel of a in progress build. If you get any onto the neck wood it is going to soak in and the glue will not adhere to that area. Depending on how large the area is, that can be a major problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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