Cam Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 So I have a build coming up with a 3/4" carved top. I am of course going to do lots of practice, but how can I practice if I don't know what tools to use? I was originally going to use an angle grinder, but I have been denied access to the Angle Grinder because it is 'deadly' So now I have a few options, but I am unsure as to which one is the easiest (or will work): Chisel and a Random Orbital Sander Spokeshave Random Orbital Sander with real high grit sandpaper, carve it the same way as you would with an angle grinder. Which one do you think would be the easiest? Do you have any other ways? I was leaning more towards the 3rd option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I did my first with a grinder and belt sander but my next im going to use a rasp and orbital sander. Grinders are good but take timber away fast and in the wrong hands with an expensive bit of timber it could be costly. Mine turned out fine but not quite how i wanted as i took off abit too much. I reckon with a first carve to take time and use hand tools and use an orbital to help clean it up every now and then to save the old arms abit of soreness. Just my opinion but chisels,rasps and hand planes can work wonders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 what do you think the average time on start to finish on carving a blackwood top would be with chisels and an orbital sander? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Use scrapers too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 As long as it takes to do a great job! Don't put a time limit on it. Once you have done multiple carves you will know the technique and be much quicker. Im sure there is guys on this site who could knock out a carved top in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I was originally going to use an angle grinder, but I have been denied access to the Angle Grinder because it is 'deadly' I never heard if deadly sandpaper before even on an angle grinder. Are you using hand tools for your entire build since a router is more dangerious than an angle grinder with a sanding disk. I generally start with a cove bit in my router which gets a good ledge going around the guitar. Then go to an angle grinder to do the bulk of the work. The rest is either sandpaper chucked into a drill press, scrapers and gouges for some of the fine detail work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I use my finger nails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I use my finger nails. No you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I use my finger nails. No you don't. I do! I'll admit it hurts and is a bit messy but the end result is bloody good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusader Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 (edited) Router There's a link on here somewhere with pictures that uses a router http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...t=0&start=0 Edited May 17, 2009 by Crusader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 http://home.asparagine.net/ant/blog/?p=111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 http://home.asparagine.net/ant/blog/?p=111 Cant say i agree with the method as there is no flat spot for the neck pickup ring. Look closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I have les paul with no flat spot for rings, rings are sanded on the back so they match the curvature of guitar. Look on stewmac, you can buy regular rings, and those for carved tops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...t=0&start=0 Interesting thread, though I wish he did go into how he gets that angle in the top. Question though, how would you do that on a body shape that has the horns extending beyond where your neck angle starts? Like how a Strat's horns poke out closer towards the 12th fret than a Les Paul, who's neck pocket is essentially the end of the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 http://home.asparagine.net/ant/blog/?p=111 Cant say i agree with the method as there is no flat spot for the neck pickup ring. Look closely. But that like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 (edited) I am now thinking of doing the carve with chisels and a orbital sander. I am wondering though, are there any special chisels i need to use for the job? I am thinking of carve 3 with a small steep bit like 2, but more so that the carves flows nice over the body: -think of a more rounded 2 i guess. Edited May 18, 2009 by Cam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 @Cam, that is a picture of how the carve need to be, those are steps in carving. @stereordinary, I don't know!, I'm about to build a guitar like that (pensa suhr mk-1), but the carve isn't like the lp's, it's different around the body, and horns are completely different story.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 When I did these, I used a router, and made two ledges. One for the binding, obviously, and another just a hair over where I wanted the thickness of my top to be at the edges, so I didn't carve too far down. That went in about a half inch from the perimeter of the body. I made rough removal of the stock with a surform and rasps, not too much time spent with those, but rounded out the top of the body (in a fashion similar to picture "1" in your diagram.) I used a small block plane and some spokeshaves to clean it up. I added the recurve with one of these and some spokeshaves. I cleaned the whole thing up with a few various card scrapers where need be. Having a good edge on my tools, and using the card scrapers where need be because of grain direction, I avoided having to sand. Relatively quick process given that it was done with hand tools, although I'm sure the angle grinder is *much* faster, and very satisfying to do. (I enjoy working with hand tools.) My main motivation for this method was the ease of cleaning up shavings compared to dust, and the noise level. Working on a third floor porch in an apartment complex, it's nice not to have dust flying onto everyone elses space, and to be able to work around my weird schedule without disturbing my neighbors. (I was doing most of my routing in my fathers backyard, a couple towns over, at that point) It was also a case of having those tools, and not having an angle grinder. Chisels will get you to step "1" - to get past that, you'd want to switch from chisels to carving gouges to put in the recurve, if you wanted to go with the chiseling method. It's difficult to make that kind of angle with a straight chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 i am thinking this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiJNwIPALs8...re=channel_page 4:30-5:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I'm thinking of using just rasps to do step 1. What do you recommend for step 2? It seems like trickiest part to do, step 3 is much easier, it's just finishing. Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 thats what i was thinking, making the steep bit in step 2 looks kinda hard... I guess you could skip it and like deepen the carve around the edges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I'm searching the net in search for best solution...and I think I will first carve edges of guitar to what thickness they are supposed to be+binding, and next is just thickness without binding, and then use a angle grinder to rough out the shape. Because I don't have ANY blueprints and stuff, I will have to be very careful not to take too much wood, unless I want to give another bunch of money away for another figured maple top.... Router + angle grinder + scrapers + lots of sanding paper + even more patience. That should be it, what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 i am thinking routing the edges, doing the carve with a chisel and smoothing it out with an orbital sander and then hand sanding. Until I get more experience and more age I won't be using the angle grinder. I guess because extra work will be put in chiseling i'll love my guitars ore and more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Grinder and a flap disc would do that relatively quickly. But you would want to draw it out and take a bit of time cause it does take away timber very quickly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 (edited) I rout around the majority of the body with a rebate cutter or a coving bit to establish the outer "rim", shade in the edges of the "shelves" so you don't take them down any more, draw on the edges of the flat area and finally use a combination of planes, sandpaper and scrapers to do the rest. I used to use a flap wheel on an angle grinder, but it's far too aggressive at times. I use patience and rechecking a lot too :-D Edited May 18, 2009 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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