chops1983 Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I rout around the majority of the body with a rebate cutter or a coving bit to establish the outer "rim", shade in the edges of the "shelves" so you don't take them down any more, draw on the edges of the flat area and finally use a combination of planes, sandpaper and scrapers to do the rest. I used to use a flap wheel on an angle grinder, but it's far too aggressive at times. I use patience and rechecking a lot too :-D I agree, thats going to be the method on my next carve hopefully starting soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Don't take it as gospel though....I decided on that method on the basis that it develops a nice shelf around the edge of the carve to protect from sanding through. I did this on a build i'll post soon....although I used the coving bit rather than the rebate bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Do you guys use those rounded chisels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcovis Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I route around the edge of the guitar to give me a carve to line, then I go at it with different gouges and a random orbit sander until I like how it looks. Might have to try a grinder on the next one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I route around the edge of the guitar to give me a carve to line, then I go at it with different gouges and a random orbit sander until I like how it looks. Might have to try a grinder on the next one. I find a cove bit works best. A large 3/4" one. Gives me a working ledge above the main body that is even across the guitar. The same as using a rabbit bit only it removes more wood. If I felt safe using a panel bit I would try that instead . The second illustration is just a rough area of removal as lots of different carve shapes can be made. I take off the bulk of the carve with a mini grinder and flap disk. The rest is working with a locking pad sander on the drill press to even out all the little nooks and crannies http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAG...mp;PMT4TP=*LTIP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Panel bit? You mean the massively wide profile bits that are ~3" diameter for table routers? I've considered one or two of those before (in my dreams) as they would feasibly produce a very even graduated shelf around the (for example) back of an LP body, and a steeper bit for bringing up the waist a little. Expensive bits for the application however, and I prefer to spend time with the top getting down and dirty, making it my own :-D Everybody say "wooooow!" (click the pictures link for profiles): http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-CMT-Rai...tters-21044.htm I likes my toys, I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Hey guys, where to buy U-shaped chisels/gouges ON INTERNET? like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Hey guys, where to buy U-shaped chisels/gouges ON INTERNET? like this: Don't know but they have the bevels on the wrong side for carving a top, in my opinion, they'll dig in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) Don't know but they have the bevels on the wrong side for carving a top, in my opinion, they'll dig in. They need to dig in. Do they? Edited May 19, 2009 by marko_slash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 (edited) Don't know but they have the bevels on the wrong side for carving a top, in my opinion, they'll dig in. They need to dig in. Do they? Ha! sorry that was maye a bit unclear. A guoge like that will dig in a making it very hard to control the depth just like a chisel. You want the bevel to be on the convex side so its against the wood and you will find it removes a small layer rather than big lumps. Edited May 19, 2009 by joshvegas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 A guoge like that will dig in a making it very hard to control the depth just like a chisel. You want the bevel to be on the convex side so its against the wood and you will find it removes a small layer rather than big lumps. Unless you need to make a very precise channel the bevel in that picture will be a problem. Sculpting figured wood sounds like a slow and dangerous process especially for someone who doesn't own carving tools. Plus they need to be razor sharp and not cheepo garbage. A small carving plane would be a bit easier. Considering a Harbor freight mini grinder is like $20 US and a flap disk about $5 US how much cheaper can you get. Plus its fast and controllable unlikely to cause figure damage, and did I say cheap. One you go to hand tools you better buy good tools know how to use and sharpen them. Panel bit? You mean the massively wide profile bits that are ~3" diameter for table routers? I've considered one or two of those before (in my dreams) as they would feasibly produce a very even graduated shelf around the (for example) back of an LP body, and a steeper bit for bringing up the waist a little. Expensive bits for the application however, and I prefer to spend time with the top getting down and dirty, making it my own :-D I have these suckers, I am just too nervous to try one on a guitar body for fear of toasting the build. They also do not normally come with a guide bearing. A panel bit in a shaper is a better choice as you can add a rub collar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshvegas Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 I'm not sure if you are agreeing with me or not spokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Panel bit? You mean the massively wide profile bits that are ~3" diameter for table routers? I have these suckers, I am just too nervous to try one on a guitar body for fear of toasting the build. They also do not normally come with a guide bearing. I have a couple of those too. One of them I got and foolishly tried it out in a handheld router. No real risk to my fingers, but sure enough it ruined my workpiece. That thing was like a propellar just trying to take off. Another one I have was only slightly smaller but didn't feel like it was gonna launch my router into the air. It actually worked quite nicely, but it's just not a look I'm crazy about. I would have much rather just carve it by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 I'm not sure if you are agreeing with me or not spokey Sorry forgot to give you credit. I agree 100% with your assesment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Panel bit? You mean the massively wide profile bits that are ~3" diameter for table routers? I have these suckers, I am just too nervous to try one on a guitar body for fear of toasting the build. They also do not normally come with a guide bearing. I have a couple of those too. One of them I got and foolishly tried it out in a handheld router. No real risk to my fingers, but sure enough it ruined my workpiece. That thing was like a propeller just trying to take off. Another one I have was only slightly smaller but didn't feel like it was gonna launch my router into the air. It actually worked quite nicely, but it's just not a look I'm crazy about. I would have much rather just carve it by hand. You would need to use that large bit in small depth steps. Spooky scary stuff. You have nerves of steel my hats off to you. i Guess I could hobble together a body plank from some shop scrap and give it a try someday, but I don't think I have anything with a bearing guide. There is also the vertical panel raising bits but the logistics of rotating the guitar on its edge makes it useless for guitars. I guess if you are desperate to machine a perfect carved top only a cnc router will do as you can carve the entire top anyway you want. Unlike a router bit in a handheld router or router table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 I recently "carved" two 1 piece teak bodies using a belt sander w/50 grit paper. They were both quite different in design and it worked fine on both. I finished up the detailing with 80 grit and a variety of sanding blocks - my finger ( s ) , a ratchet handle , foam and solid blocks, depending on which part I was on. Best of luck on your carve ! PGFH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IPA or death Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 (edited) Obviously there's more than one way to skin a cat... or a guitar top. But I used a curved scraper and an Ibex curved bottom hand plane, I think the blade on mine is 15 or 20 mm wide. (Having a couple more of those of various sizes would have made it easier). Takes some time but the best thing about going slow is you really can't take off too much. Edited May 22, 2009 by IPA or death Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Where to get knives for homemade ibex-like planes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Where to get knives for homemade ibex-like planes? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...amp;cat=1,41182 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 I use: 1) Router for indexed edge 2) Angle grinder with flap sanding disk for rough carve 3) Ibex fingerplane, random orbit sander and scrapers to clean up/finish things off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 Is it better to use those sanding disks that have many little sheets of sanding paper glued onto each other, or those that are just circle shaped sanding paper for angle grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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