madhattr88 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 just a quick poll.... which method do u use? (and why?) 1 - route the FB to its final width (ie. 1 11/16" @ the nut, 2 1/16" @ the 12th fret)), then glue it to a rough neck, use a guide bearing to take the neck to the FB 2 - route the neck to the final width, glue it to a rough FB and then take the FB down to the neck 3 - route both to final width and try to glue them together as straight as possible 4 - leave FB & neck slightly oversized, glue them together, then sand your way to the final width 5 - none of the above (please explain) thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 i taper the FB on my table saw, glue it to the neck and then use that as a "Template" for my router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 I route the neck taper with a template than glue on the fingerboard oversize and route it to the neck. If the fingerboard has no radius and it's an angled headstock I rout the taper on the fingerboard glue it then route the neck to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 #2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDub Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 I taper the board with a hand plane, then glue it to the neck, which I've already rough cut on the bandsaw. I leave the neck a little wide, but take that off when I'm shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 #2 also but may try #1 on my current build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 # 3 and use pins. Look for a current build where this was just discussed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 #1 w/ pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VesQ Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 this what I use #1 fretboard to final size with handplane before gluing it and using fretboard as guide. #4 I used this method in my first build. Takes a hell of a lot time to sand even if there´s only one 1mm extra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 #2 for bolt ons #1 for set or thru necks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I size my fingerboard with a handplane (after rough sawing off the majority of the excess if I'm working with a wider board than I need.) then attach it to my neck blank. If I don't size the neck blank too closely at first, I can often just clamp a couple of small blocks to the neck help me locate the fingerboard during glue-up, and remove these blocks once the neck is clamped, but before the glue is set up, otherwise pins or something works. Rough saw the neck blank after the glue has dried, and plane it close but still proud of the fingerboard. The last little bit gets removed with scrapers during the process of shaping the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 #3 for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 (edited) I make a template and use it to both taper neck and fretboard separately, then glue them together. I find it easier to bind the fretboard before gluing up so I have to at least the fretboard. However, I also find it easier to have both tapered, as you can apply two clamps horizontally to keep it perfectly aligned. Although, I shape my neck first, so I used a special clamp that works with shaped necks and fretboards, which makes it almost impossible to have any alignment issues. As with Woodenspoke, I also use some pins, but nothing as neat or efficient as what Woodenspoke does. J Edited June 8, 2009 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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