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Rhoads Routing


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Here's the deal:

I'm making a Rhoads body. I had everything planned out except for the input jack. I've never done a strat style jack before. I'm putting the jack in the standard jack location for a Rhoads style V (upper wing above the strap pin). My question is, is there any special way to get a channel from the input jack to the control cavity (on the bottom wing) without routing out a surface channel and then covering it up with a laminate?

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Here's the deal:

I'm making a Rhoads body. I had everything planned out except for the input jack. I've never done a strat style jack before. I'm putting the jack in the standard jack location for a Rhoads style V (upper wing above the strap pin). My question is, is there any special way to get a channel from the input jack to the control cavity (on the bottom wing) without routing out a surface channel and then covering it up with a laminate?

an extra long drill bit.

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online...N_1869_657.html

Its a UK company but i suppose anything similar might work.

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The absolute best way is to plan to put a top on it...rout all of your tunnels in the back and then cap it with hard maple...

Maybe as a bit of inspiration I should tell you that the combination of alder and mahogany is about the tastiest marrying of woods I have ever done...A mahogany back with a 3/4" alder top and a maple neck would sound about as sweet on a V as you could ever imagine...

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Avengers, BRILLIENT!

Wes, I'm going to do that on one of these guitars, as I've read your reviews on mahogany + alder. I have enough wood left over to build another V, and I'll be building a neck with this one too. got any sound samples?

Feral, I have one of those. Unfortunately I would have to run the channel through the string ferrules if I want to get a straight shot to the control cavity. Good try though!

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I am not sure of the long bit will work on a Rhoads coming from the bridge pickup. That is a long distance still, even a 12" bit might not be long enough. If you drill from the pickup, that is a very low angle and I don't think you are going to get the drill that low. Drilling from the jack cavity will let you get the flat angle, bit the wing is probably going to get in the way of the drill.

The only Rhoads that have the jack on the top wing is RR1, which are neck thru and a lot of times nice maple tops. But with the neck through you can drill your cavities before glueing everything up. You could probably do it with a two piece body like that as well, you just have to make sure your tunnels line up when gluing.

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Avengers, BRILLIENT!

Sure, the gets the credit. I said to do it that way like 4 days ago when you mentioned it in the off topics chat :D

Ihocky,

There are no RR1s with maple tops. There are also a few newer RR3s, and the RR5 that have the jack in that spot. They are all done just with a long bit to the bridge pickup cavity. On my template of a RR, the pickup cavity is only about 5.5" from where the jack would be. I see no problem drilling.

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I thought I had seen RR1's with maple tops, but I guess I was mistaken. I haven't looked at many of the newer Jackson's in a while, so I didn't know they moved the jack, good to know.

Have you ever taken apart an RR1 though? How can you say for certain how they run the wiring channel? I have never had to to play around with, so you may be right.

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I thought I had seen RR1's with maple tops, but I guess I was mistaken. I haven't looked at many of the newer Jackson's in a while, so I didn't know they moved the jack, good to know.

Have you ever taken apart an RR1 though? How can you say for certain how they run the wiring channel? I have never had to to play around with, so you may be right.

No worries. I dotn think i have evefr seen an RR1 production run with a maple top. There are tons of custom shop Rhoads with maple tops. Just not regular USA RR1s.

I have changed pickups on a RR1. The there was indeed a wire going to the pickup rout from the Jack. This was a mid 90s RR1, so I dont know if its changed with the Fender buyout or anything.

Edited by wood is good
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When I did mine, I had a separate cavity for the jack. I used a barrel jack and drilled parallel to the centerline. You can go that way if you want.

It's also TONS easier if you have a stringthrough, then you can just drill the holes first and then glue them.

Wes, your mahog/alder idea really interests me. Talk about two woods I would not think of sandwiching. And just as I was debating putting a top on my RG build (But I don't think one would work well with bevels on front and back)....

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They are all done just with a long bit to the bridge pickup cavity. On my template of a RR, the pickup cavity is only about 5.5" from where the jack would be. I see no problem drilling.

We have a winner....

This is how jackson really makes em. Long drill bit from the jack to the bridge pup. Carefull, and dont blow through the top or bottom.

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