Homemade Cnc Thread

[factory5150]

Im all for the CNC topic and sharing files. I have no problem trading out drawings for standard shapes.

My CNC should be online next week, my gecko drive should be here Tuesday, and I am using a 1 1/2 MDF board as my temporary tabletop until my aluminum t slot one comes in.

Cant wait to make some stuff lol.

[Vinny]

I posted a video on Youtube showing the table top CNC progress, -Vinny

[Vinny]

I'm in. Looks like June before I start on mine. But I am going mechanical...

RestorationAD, when you say you're going mechanical do you mean like a Duplicarver type set-up? I really think if you're already building guitars, the leap to CNC is not a big one. Your signiture mentions 'IT' in it, if you're computer savvy then you're half way there already.

If cost is a factor, consider the TableTop version Im building (see above post with YouTube link) as I will probably have under $200 invested in that CNC when its done. $150 of which is for the 3 motors, driver board and breakout board. the other $50 is for the piece of MDF, hardware store stuff like pipe, aluminum angle, skate bearings, various bolts nuts and screws. The Dremel I had already

Other costs for me that may be helpful to others who want to know what CNC will cost:

I will purchase a CAD program such as Vectric's Cut2D $149

I will also purchase a CAM program: Mach 3 $175

The above programs come at a cost, Realize that there are similar FREEWARE programs that will also get the job done.

Thanks,

Vinny

some pics:

[Vinny]

I installed the work surface and got most of the Z axis together today. This is the most work on the CNC Ive done in probably 4 months. The work surface is height adjustable from below to get the surface as flat as possible. I drilled holes into the board to use for clamping down work pieces. In the Z Axis picture, the threaded rod runs through a white block nut thats been cut and tapped for the 5/16 thread, its a piece from an old cutting board (HPE Plastic) -Vinny

[MiKro]

I'm in. Looks like June before I start on mine. But I am going mechanical...

>snip<

Other costs for me that may be helpful to others who want to know what CNC will cost:

I will purchase a CAD program such as Vectric's Cut2D $149

I will also purchase a CAM program: Mach 3 $175

The above programs come at a cost, Realize that there are similar FREEWARE programs that will also get the job done.

Thanks,

Vinny

>snip<

Vinny,

Just an FYI, Mach3 is not a CAM program, it is the controller program. Just wanted you to make sure you understand that?

Computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) Now what A Cam program does is allow you generate Gcode or tool paths for your controller software to use to make the CNC work.

Cut2d is a very limited Cad/Cam program. It will only allow you to make Shapes,(circles, ellipses, rectangles and squares)

It will not draw a line. In order to draw a line you must first draw a rectangle or square and delete 3 of the spans.

It will not draw arcs, again you must draw a circle and place points and remove spans.

It only allows you to profile a vector,(on, inside or outside), pocket and drill. It will also generate tool paths for those options. If you need complex 2D shapes you will need at minimum, a CAD program to generate a DXF file to import into Cut2D. Then you still have the limits of Cut2D for tool paths. Adding Cut3D will only allow you to use STL and a few other 3D files to setup Tool paths. IT does not allow any modeling. If that is what you want then you will need something like RhinoCad/Cam, ArtCam or it's lesser versions as examples. There are many more.

Just wanted to give you some insight into this.

Mike

[Vinny]

Thanks Mike for the info, I was building and typing and taking pictures all at the same time. I thought I mentioned that I create my flat drawings in Corel Draw 10 and export as a dxf file into Cut2D in the last post, but after re-reading it I left it out. The G-code Cut2D produces will be used in Mach3. Boy thats a mouthful !!! 18 months ago this was completely Chinese to me, I'm just starting to wrap my brain around it all. But having fun all the way ! I have the little belt and pulleys assembled for the Y axis and realized its waaaaay toooo fast, something like 1 turn of the stepper motor equals 1½ inches of travel. Im going back and using threaded rod and a HPE nut across instead. The Z axis runs really nice with that set-up. -Vinny

[MiKro]

Thanks Mike for the info, I was building and typing and taking pictures all at the same time. I thought I mentioned that I create my flat drawings in Corel Draw 10 and export as a dxf file into Cut2D in the last post, but after re-reading it I left it out. The G-code Cut2D produces will be used in Mach3. Boy thats a mouthful !!! 18 months ago this was completely Chinese to me, I'm just starting to wrap my brain around it all. But having fun all the way ! I have the little belt and pulleys assembled for the Y axis and realized its waaaaay toooo fast, something like 1 turn of the stepper motor equals 1½ inches of travel. Im going back and using threaded rod and a HPE nut across instead. The Z axis runs really nice with that set-up. -Vinny

That's cool. Just wanted to make sure you were on the right path

MK

[Vinny]

Mike,

I downloaded CoCreate to have a look at it, I haven't tried exporting from it yet but was wondering would I go from a drawing in CoCreate and export to Mach3 ?

When trying Cut2D I quickly grasped the importing of my DXF drawing from Corel and the material set-up, tool selection and how it creates g-code at the end for Mach3. Am I missing something with CoCreate like setting up the material size and tool selection ?

Is Cut2D more of a milling program that generates g-code with limited design elements? Using Corel, then Cut2D and Mach3 makes sense to me. Just wondering - Thanks, Vinny

[MiKro]

Mike,

I downloaded CoCreate to have a look at it, I haven't tried exporting from it yet but was wondering would I go from a drawing in CoCreate and export to Mach3 ?

When trying Cut2D I quickly grasped the importing of my DXF drawing from Corel and the material set-up, tool selection and how it creates g-code at the end for Mach3. Am I missing something with CoCreate like setting up the material size and tool selection ?

Is Cut2D more of a milling program that generates g-code with limited design elements? Using Corel, then Cut2D and Mach3 makes sense to me. Just wondering - Thanks, Vinny

Vinny if I'm not mistaken CoCreate is a 3D Cad program only. It would need to export to some compatible Cam program that has the ability to define your Tools and Tool paths. Or if it can Export your model in say an STL file then Cut3D could be used to gen the toolpaths to be used by M3 or another Post Processor.

Yes cut2d is really more a milling program as you described.

Mike

[Vinny]

I converted an old power supply from a computer to work with the desktop CNC. I was amazed at how straight forward it was. I probably could have spent $8 on the whole thing but I got fancy with a illuminated on/off rocker switch and extra LED's and binding posts. I salvaged a old steel VCR wall mount box and added a front panel to finish it off. Total, just under $20 spent. -Vinny

[Vinny]

I powered up the board today and ran the motors as they sat unmounted on the desk, basically I watched in amazement as the motor shafts air-cut a basic circle with the test file I made. I threw my fists in the air and let out a big OHHHH YEAHHHHH !!!! Then the Kool-Aid guy crashed thru the wall and smashed all my hard work. Big thanks to Mikro for helping out a fellow PG'er -Vinny

[wang]

It's rather awesome,I have been searching materials relate to these stuffs for my paper.and it really helps me.

[MiKro]

Here's a couple of STL files I have worked on. They are not perfect but will get you close. They are carve top sections only, no cutouts. These started out as IGS files and needed some work. Not sure who to give credit to for the original work in IGS format?

I added a profile dxf file for the PRS with PU, neck cutout and control layouts.

LP top and PRS top. Enjoy!

Large file Link

MK

[HuntinDoug]

Thanks! Very cool!

[RestorationAD]

Thanks MiKro!

[MiKro]

All are welcome. they are not perfect. and the LP top carve is questionable to be a 59 LOL!!( that's what was listed when I got them) They are usable though to get you close and hand finish.

I was blasted on the OLF for posting these as "THEY ARE NOT Cyclodial" are some kind of crap to that effect and whatever BS standards some there hold, because they have the financial means to get the software worth 1000s of dollars and model it perfectly while looking down on those of us that just try to get by.

whatever floats a boat?

Enjoy, and do what you can with it.

MK

[Woodenspoke]

Sounds like you are learning. Mach does have freeware Lazy cam but honestly it is a dog and 2d only. Most pro shops use a high end program like mastercam x3 or now x4, big bucks and a steep learning curve. Really depends on what you need to do. Most of my stuff is 2d so needing a 3d cam program for me is extra money for no gain. I use a mill not a router.

So to recap what was said:

1. you need a design program CAD and there are many. Generaly a program that allows you to save as a DXF fileis best.

2. you need a program that will convert the design into Gcode that will run on the mill controller software called CAM. Each control system uses slightly different Gcode and you need a post processor for that system.

3. You need the controller program to run the motors, sense switches and show the posistion of the bit in the work, MACH3.

Until I picked up a simple program like Cut2D i was having some issues with cam. Its a toy but it does what I need it to do. I wish I had more control over what tool paths the program makes but I dont. I work withing the limits of what I got.

ON that note I just wanted to let you know I have been very busy with my small mill lately (My CNC project). Mostly adding things like a flood coolant (cools the work and cutter and stops aluminum from sticking to the bit) which uses a pump, and removing a mist coolant system that used air but kicked in my compressor every 10 minutes. That meant building a table that drained back into the pump. The table had to be coated with with epoxy and screens installed made of plexi to keep the splashing contained.

I did a great job how ever I would up getting one of my servo connectors wet, wet enough to short out my Xylotex controller board..Ouch.... At least thats what I think I did, but it was 4 years old in my defense.

Turns out Xylotex has no post warranty support and shelling out $155 on a now old card was a joke. So I am building a Geckodrive controller system using the new 4 axis g540 board and changing my steppers to a 385oz from the 286oz steppers I got with the Xylotex system. This new board allows 10,000 steps over the Xylotex's 8,000 (a bit smoother)and has built in short circuit protection. Not that I plan on shorting out my board again. It also has a separate break out board that is isolated from the main controller (built in) which will allow me to remove another CandC breakout box I was using for my limit switches and the charge pump connection to Mach3. That is this weeks project.

I will most likey sell off all my old parts to pay for this upgrade. I am still saying ouch... So in the mean time I a rebuilding my mill by taking it all apart and cleaning out the ballscrew nuts and making sure it is all reattached and nothing is loose. Its been 4 years so it was about time any way. I have many things to do and need this machine in top shape. Managed to finally add an extra 1/2" of travel to the Y axis as well which involved removing metal from the machine. Unfortunately Its not a big mill so any additional travel in any direction is a plus.

Now to fix all the water (coolant) issues I now have...Oh well live and learn.

[MiKro]

Sounds like you are learning. Mach does have freeware Lazy cam but honestly it is a dog and 2d only. Most pro shops use a high end program like mastercam x3 or now x4, big bucks and a steep learning curve. Really depends on what you need to do. Most of my stuff is 2d so needing a 3d cam program for me is extra money for no gain. I use a mill not a router.

So to recap what was said:

1. you need a design program CAD and there are many. Generaly a program that allows you to save as a DXF fileis best.

2. you need a program that will convert the design into Gcode that will run on the mill controller software called CAM. Each control system uses slightly different Gcode and you need a post processor for that system.

3. You need the controller program to run the motors, sense switches and show the posistion of the bit in the work, MACH3.

Until I picked up a simple program like Cut2D i was having some issues with cam. Its a toy but it does what I need it to do. I wish I had more control over what tool paths the program makes but I dont. I work withing the limits of what I got.

ON that note I just wanted to let you know I have been very busy with my small mill lately (My CNC project). Mostly adding things like a flood coolant (cools the work and cutter and stops aluminum from sticking to the bit) which uses a pump, and removing a mist coolant system that used air but kicked in my compressor every 10 minutes. That meant building a table that drained back into the pump. The table had to be coated with with epoxy and screens installed made of plexi to keep the splashing contained.

I did a great job how ever I would up getting one of my servo connectors wet, wet enough to short out my Xylotex controller board..Ouch.... At least thats what I think I did, but it was 4 years old in my defense.

Turns out Xylotex has no post warranty support and shelling out $155 on a now old card was a joke. So I am building a Geckodrive controller system using the new 4 axis g540 board and changing my steppers to a 385oz from the 286oz steppers I got with the Xylotex system. This new board allows 10,000 steps over the Xylotex's 8,000 (a bit smoother)and has built in short circuit protection. Not that I plan on shorting out my board again. It also has a separate break out board that is isolated from the main controller (built in) which will allow me to remove another CandC breakout box I was using for my limit switches and the charge pump connection to Mach3. That is this weeks project.

I will most likey sell off all my old parts to pay for this upgrade. I am still saying ouch... So in the mean time I a rebuilding my mill by taking it all apart and cleaning out the ballscrew nuts and making sure it is all reattached and nothing is loose. Its been 4 years so it was about time any way. I have many things to do and need this machine in top shape. Managed to finally add an extra 1/2" of travel to the Y axis as well which involved removing metal from the machine. Unfortunately Its not a big mill so any additional travel in any direction is a plus.

Now to fix all the water (coolant) issues I now have...Oh well live and learn.

Sounds like Fun, not. Sorry to hear about the short. If I can be of any assistance let me know George.

I agree that Cut2d has it's weaknesses and is limiting, but it can do more than you think if you go outside of the box if you get my meaning. LOL!!

Mike

[Woodenspoke]

I have already made cut 2d do things it was not designed to do. It just takes extra steps. Forces you to think as you say beyond the programs limits.

As far as a drawing program it has very little value except for the odd hole or two. If I could figure out how to use mastercam that is the way to go as it allows you to control the tool path. lets say you have a block that is 3" square but you only need to take off .25" on only two sides. This program will do that however the tool will move around the whole block rather than work directly on each side that needs the work done. Then you have to modify the drawing to send the bit outside of the work as well. This is not a time saver.

I will say I do enjoy the program CUT 2D. It will be great for inlay when I finally pick up a bit small enough to use.

The Gecko system and bigger steppers are on there way. Hopefully by friday I will have it up and running again. But it was an expensive fix, and I took the more expensive route as well.

Thanks for the help offer mike but I have it all pretty much down at least with the software and hardware. Finally adding that big red estop button..LOL

If I can figure out how to turn on the collant pump (hardware 12vdc to Ac relay )then I will be all set.

[MiKro]

>snip<

Thanks for the help offer mike but I have it all pretty much down at least with the software and hardware. Finally adding that big red estop button..LOL

If I can figure out how to turn on the collant pump (hardware 12vdc to Ac relay )then I will be all set.

George the EStop is a good thing.

Now the other? What Input are you using? what pin and port are you setting for this in Mach? also are you using a second breakout board or the A axis of a single breakout and if so what pin? step. dir or ? I've been working on the same thing so I do understand the frustration. Are you using a charge pump, wallwart, or pull up resistor on the breakout to supply the +5Vdc voltage?

Email me with your setup I may be able to help.

Mike

[Vinny]

Spoke, sorry to hear you had problems, the new set-up should be Sweet !

Mike, I too read that post on OLF and thought like you did, your reply was on target. "Here's a freebie" and you get blasted. Theres a few cool open minded people there but it can get like MIMF at times. Oh well.

-Vinny

[Vinny]

Update:

My desktop is project is stalled. The parallel X pulley set-up I used to keep the gantry from racking needs tweaking. The motor and lead screw in the pic are diagonal and pull a nylon rope that runs a continuous X pattern moving the gantry from the sides equally.

Im re-locating the motor/leadscrew to the traditional front to back layout but will keep the X pulleys/rope in place for its accuracy. I had things running good, after I extended my

Lead wires to the motors I was back to jumpy steppers and wrong steps. Will try Mach on another computer to see if it helps. -Vinny

[Woodenspoke]

Vinny

Honestly I dont even know how that thing runs using ropes and pulleys. The backlash is going to be off the charts. You cant control that backlash even in Mach 3 because the stretch of the string (rope) will never be consistent from one change of direction to the next. The longer the rope the worse the problem will be. Even with a take up roller which is spring loaded it will still stretch. The harder you cut the further it will stretch. Every change of direction will bring a change in physical location for the x axis. The more your system changes direction the further out of position it will go.

I have quietly watched your build but this idea is, lets just say over the top. As I have said before precision is what makes the CNC equipment. ON my mill my backlash is .004" on all axis, that is each and every time it changes direction it is a measurable amount that I can control. Most likely it is due to the Stepper connectors as they have a urethane buffer in between the shaft and motor. This is how closely you need to look at what you are doing. An example if I change direction 100 times That's 100 x .004=.4" almost 1/2". I really will not be that bad as it will offset itself on each change of direction. But the principal is the same. Then add in circular motion. you need to be precise or you will have a machine that cant duplicate a single project with accuracy.

Have you thought about chains and sprockets. Cheap and readily available..here is a link for you

http://www.allelectronics.com/index.php?pa...mp;x=11&y=3

[Vinny]

I shelved the desktop CNC for now and I'm back working on the shop 24x36 Table. The red paint really put new initiative into the build. It looks purposeful now. The Z axis is coming together, I re-did a couple of areas and Im happy with how its coming along. Gonna place the order for the 4 belts this week, 2 twins for the long axis, 1 to go across and a mini for the compact Z axis. The rest of the parts are here, ready to go. -Vinny

[Vinny]

Came home tonight after watching local Fireworks with my family. The paint had dried on the Z axis so I took out the tools and assembled it. Heres a couple pics. -Vinny