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Pointy Stick


Muzz

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I never have the money to order all the parts in one go! Pay day is friday, so a new batch of parts arrives at my house usually on mondays or tuesdays :D

I think its looking great, though. Are you gonna put a roundover on those edges? I know the RG-esque shape begs crisp lines, but I'd be afraid of dropping it and lopping my foot off...

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Thanks guys, so good to know I am not the only one, if I can get an hour free tomorrow I will catch the bus to the guitar parts shop and pick one up. They have a box of spare parts there that Wez would love, they are really reliced and ready to go on a suitable project.

The back of the guitar will be rounded over, kind of like this,

ndk8ph.jpg

Must remember not to put the router down too hard and then start rounding over without checking the bit depth, or this will happen

207tgs0.jpg

The front is going to keep the sharp edge, must also remember not to drop on foot :D

Looking forward to routing the pup holes on the weekend, have a great one.

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I should point out that the two photos above are of the mdf practice model, not the ash body. Even so it doesn't matter the router gash is where the tummy tuck is going, check out the huge gash also in the mdf body's trem block hole.

Or did you know that and were disappointed that I am not going to drop the guitar on my foot? :D

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Thanks guys, so good to know I am not the only one, if I can get an hour free tomorrow I will catch the bus to the guitar parts shop and pick one up. They have a box of spare parts there that Wez would love, they are really reliced and ready to go on a suitable project.

i prefer distressed... or FUBARed to reliced - unless its restoration. you will notice i dont do accurate replicas of vintage guitars as quite frankly it bores me to death, doing it... although i will get to play another bravewood fender relic with original 57 v neck next weekend (my forth bravewood experience and they always impress more than i think they should) and i appreciate the art a lot - just not what i am after doing

generally my supply of proper vintage parts comes from people who want proper vintage parts on a guitar, sometimes because they have planned a project around that proper vintage part. although i did do the same thing for myself when i managed to get my 70's wide range humbucker for a bargain price so i understand that philosophy

i am the same type of builder - i aim to order everything up front, still not sure its ever worked out that way... i normally forget things like nut material and jack plates - i keep loads in but never have the right type :?

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Thanks guys, so good to know I am not the only one, if I can get an hour free tomorrow I will catch the bus to the guitar parts shop and pick one up. They have a box of spare parts there that Wez would love, they are really reliced and ready to go on a suitable project.

i prefer distressed... or FUBARed to reliced - unless its restoration. you will notice i dont do accurate replicas of vintage guitars as quite frankly it bores me to death, doing it... although i will get to play another bravewood fender relic with original 57 v neck next weekend (my forth bravewood experience and they always impress more than i think they should) and i appreciate the art a lot - just not what i am after doing

generally my supply of proper vintage parts comes from people who want proper vintage parts on a guitar, sometimes because they have planned a project around that proper vintage part. although i did do the same thing for myself when i managed to get my 70's wide range humbucker for a bargain price so i understand that philosophy

i am the same type of builder - i aim to order everything up front, still not sure its ever worked out that way... i normally forget things like nut material and jack plates - i keep loads in but never have the right type :?

Yep, I can understand that, I think there is a lot of art and skill in making a reproduction, and I really enjoy seeing other people do it, but I think I'll leave that to the experts, I like starting without knowing exactly what the end product is going to look like too much. A project I have always thought about is finding a really cool rescued part with history, something like an old Bigsby trem and using that to build a project guitar around. My second guitar project fantasy is to find a beautiful piece of wood at a second hand shop, so it was great to live that vicariously through Our Souls inc's Shaka Zulu project.

Thought I would chuck out a few more thoughts on fretboard clamping, and hope more people realise not to put clamps directly on the fretboard when they are gluing and use a clamping board to evenly distribute the pressure, so they do not make hills and valleys in their fretboard causing lumps that then have to get ground off their frets.

2l8cc9d.jpg

Here is a close up of aerated rubber that takes a few seconds to mold to shape, especially good for radiused fretboards to evenly distribute the pressure. You can get aerated rubber stickers for putting on furniture feet, they work a treat on clamping boards.

20fb6du.jpg

And you only need 5-6 clamps down the middle, not 36 all over the place :D

Put the holes in the scratch plate, I used a hand countersink, clamped the plate onto the guitar and went round drilling the holes and putting the screws in.

35lhwfp.jpg

A few were out by a fraction of a mm, plugged with hardwood toothpicks, re-drilled, all OK. Marked out pickup routes.

11lpf6x.jpg

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Thought I would chuck out a few more thoughts on fretboard clamping, and hope more people realise not to put clamps directly on the fretboard when they are gluing and use a clamping board to evenly distribute the pressure, so they do not make hills and valleys in their fretboard causing lumps that then have to get ground off their frets.

If you glue your fretboard without radiusing it first you don't have this problem and it saves the time of having to grind so much off the frets and having to make a jig like you did. Plus you ussually don't have to level your frets at all if you do it this way or you just barely have to take a little off of one or two frets. Works perfectly for me.

Plus I agree you don't need tons of clamps to glue a fretboard. :D

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hey man, does it make you as crazy that I just wing it as it makes me that you make everything perfect ? :D

Love where you're taking this one. even the PG it classy . Love it.

If I ever run across any more carvings - you get first dibs. Pay the shipping and purchase price - I'll get it to you. I'd love to see some more barn siding / pallet / flea market type builds. Reduce , Re~use , Recycle. :D

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Nice Job! Keep it up man, it's looking great so far.

Thanks, I am looking forward to doing the cutout for the controls next, just got to work out what I am doing there B)

Thought I would chuck out a few more thoughts on fretboard clamping, and hope more people realise not to put clamps directly on the fretboard when they are gluing and use a clamping board to evenly distribute the pressure, so they do not make hills and valleys in their fretboard causing lumps that then have to get ground off their frets.

If you glue your fretboard without radiusing it first you don't have this problem and it saves the time of having to grind so much off the frets and having to make a jig like you did. Plus you ussually don't have to level your frets at all if you do it this way or you just barely have to take a little off of one or two frets. Works perfectly for me.

Plus I agree you don't need tons of clamps to glue a fretboard.

Yep, so when I get the urge to show off my clamp collection, I am just going to put them on the fence and post a picture of that :D I think next project I do, I might have a go at cutting my own board, and gluing that on the neck wood before radiusing, it's good to try out different ways of doing stuff B)

I'm gonna have to take a trip to Australia pretty soon...

It's a great place, hey did you end up buying that guitar?

hey man, does it make you as crazy that I just wing it as it makes me that you make everything perfect ?

Love where you're taking this one. even the PG it classy . Love it.

If I ever run across any more carvings - you get first dibs. Pay the shipping and purchase price - I'll get it to you. I'd love to see some more barn siding / pallet / flea market type builds. Reduce , Re~use , Recycle.

Not at all, I dig seeing your builds on the interweb, I think you and I both put playability, solidity and tone as a first priority, and you take some ballsy experimental risks that often turn out great, or lead to reflection on how to do it better next time, either way your skills are evolving.

Lining up the centre lines on the humbucker template and the ash body

xp0x0h.jpg

Routing out with a 12mm deep bit

2ng8l6r.jpg

as far as it will go, then checking the depth. Would it matter if you routed into the spring cavity? For some reason I am going to leave 8mm of ash between the top and bottom routes.

2eg8brn.jpg

Finishing off with a 'Daddo clean out' bit (that's what it says on the pack the bit came in) :D

1zg7nt4.jpg

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hey man, does it make you as crazy that I just wing it as it makes me that you make everything perfect ?

Not at all, I dig seeing your builds on the interweb, I think you and I both put playability, solidity and tone as a first priority, and you take some ballsy experimental risks that often turn out great, or lead to reflection on how to do it better next time, either way your skills are evolving.

I can be thrown into that category sometimes. I tend to look at them as compositions and art pieces a lot of times. I'll pick out the theme and overall plan, then let it take me where it wants to go. Sometimes it works out OK, sometimes not. If it doesn't work out, I dismantle it and re-use the parts. Most of the time, the wood is the least expensive component, and the most fun!.

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hey man, does it make you as crazy that I just wing it as it makes me that you make everything perfect ?

Not at all, I dig seeing your builds on the interweb, I think you and I both put playability, solidity and tone as a first priority, and you take some ballsy experimental risks that often turn out great, or lead to reflection on how to do it better next time, either way your skills are evolving.

I can be thrown into that category sometimes. I tend to look at them as compositions and art pieces a lot of times. I'll pick out the theme and overall plan, then let it take me where it wants to go. Sometimes it works out OK, sometimes not. If it doesn't work out, I dismantle it and re-use the parts. Most of the time, the wood is the least expensive component, and the most fun!.

Right on, it is fun to walk along the edge, I love art that polarizes.

1903sz.jpg

95q93p.jpg

It's tight, but it fits.

n1z0cz.jpg

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I haven't piped up earlier but I enjoy watching this build evolve. I almost get a little sad when I don't see anything added for a few days.

Hey, glad you're enjoying this thread, I am working on the cavity route template at the moment,

25s6j3o.jpg

funny looking shape :D

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The holes in the headstock are a smidge too tight for the machine heads. I taped a ribbon of sandpaper to a dowel and wrapped it and sanded out the holes until the fit is snug.

That seems like the hard way of doing it. Wouldn't it have been easier to bump up the drill bit by 1/64" (or whatever the indexed bits are in Oz) and ream it out that way?

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The holes in the headstock are a smidge too tight for the machine heads. I taped a ribbon of sandpaper to a dowel and wrapped it and sanded out the holes until the fit is snug.

That seems like the hard way of doing it. Wouldn't it have been easier to bump up the drill bit by 1/64" (or whatever the indexed bits are in Oz) and ream it out that way?

Hard B) That's not hard, you try watching other folks make ten guitars in the time it takes you to cut out a blank, that's hard :D (Yes, I am a massive Glee fan, its the Western World's Bollywood) good thing I am not making one of these

34zwq9z.jpg

Actually the machine head reamer is my newest invention, I am calling it dowel with sandpaper wrapped around the end. Of course I am the first to invent it. Yes in :D we have both kinds of music, heavy and metal, and we have both kinds of measurement, metric and hopelessly outdated, illogical system. Metric system goes up in 500 micrometre steps.

Starting to cut out the template, how did I ever survive without these mini files? Is it the same Trojan that makes raincoats? I grabbed them in an impulse buy off the counter at Bunnings and now I am totally dependent on them.

2lier7r.jpg

Used them to shape out the template

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Positioning where the route will go

fw568.jpg

Got to get back to watching Survivor Allstars, talk soon.

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Wondering what this thing would look like with a pearly plate.

Pearloid rocks dude, get a pearloid pick guard for this thing.

REAR ROUTE !!!

Route it from the back, screw the scratch panel man.

So I am thinking from your two bits of advice above that you mean screw that rockin pearloid pick guard to your guitar, OK then :D

There is only one other meaning of "screw the scratch panel man" but I can't do that (not that there is anything wrong with that) because it is against my religion.

Now obviously from the caps shouting you are keen on a rear route, which is in keeping with the Mr. Potato Head guitar philosophy, and all it would need would be a couple of long shaft pots

EP4685.jpg

I am going to think about the feasability of this idea, but it is novel and that appeals to me.

No please...don't do the pickup gaurd. It'll look great with that stain....don't do it.

It would look good with that stain wouldn't it, here is a pic of an ash body stained blue.

2dqvhba.jpg

Now if I subscribe to the Mr. Potato Head ethos of guitar decoration, it could be played with the pick guard on when the mood takes me or it could be played naked, that means the guitar without a pickguard, if it was me naked I would need to keep my socks on, I need somewhere to keep my picks.

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