USMCHueston0311 Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 So my buddy wants me to build him a SC245 replica. So he purchased all the materials and sent to me. The specs are Black korina body 4A Flamed maple top Honduras Rosewood Neck Ebony Fingerboard PRS SC245 Pickups PRS SC245 Stop tail PRS Locking Tuners PRS Scalloped Nut I have to figure out the neck angle. Im gonna draw it up to scale after i mount the bridge on MDF and measure the final height to be more accurate. Im pretty sure the angle is plained into the body of a PRS SC245. Check the pic below. Is the entire body rear of the neck pickup, including the area where the selector switch is, plained as well or just the area that the neck pocket will be routed into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Not sure about he SC245 specifically, but most PRS body angles (or "tapers" if you prefer) are from the upper horn to just behind the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 So in theory u would mark where you would want the taper to start, on the side of the body, and measure the angle and continue that line the to neck end of the guitar, and then hand plane that line down, then sand? Like htis drawing, you woudl measure the angle at Point A. Would you use some kind of trig formula, using the distance from Pt A to Point B (Being the end of the body you are carving to?) And that would give you the distance from the top of the guitar to (point C), thus giving you the correct angle at point A. Sorry if that sounds confusing. Im no good in trig, for christs sake i took geometry three times in highschool!!!! And you would use a hand plane? Any other preferred methods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Also, how do you determine the angle that you install the stop tail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 I was reading the neck angle post, and ive got most of the measurements except for the bridge height, simply because i havent been able to get to the shop to mount the posts in some mdf and mount the extra bridge. But here are my measuremnts for when im ready to draw out the neck angle/ .099 MM Fret Height Bridge Height Desired Action 2/32" on the treble side to 5/64" on the bass side. whic Now will it hurt for me to round up to 1mm, thats such a minute difference... Also with two different actions like that should I set the action for the diagram on the low e side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Like they said above... if you do the taper from the end of the body to just behind the bridge... don't worry about the angling the bridge... just drill perpendicular to that surface lol It's already angled If you were talking about the angle for INTONATION, then that's easy, put the bass side 1/8" further back. Done. Don't worry about the action. Draw the diagram so that everything lines up so the tops of the frets are co-planar with the top of your bridge. The bridge will raise enough to give you your action. Yes there is an easier way to do that angling too. Make a sled that holds the body at your desired angle (sled could be as easy as a shim under the body) and send it through your thickness sander, lowing it until the angle reaches past the bridge. Those are some EXPENSIVE materials (especially the neck) so be careful! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Like they said above... if you do the taper from the end of the body to just behind the bridge... don't worry about the angling the bridge... just drill perpendicular to that surface lol It's already angled If you were talking about the angle for INTONATION, then that's easy, put the bass side 1/8" further back. Done. Don't worry about the action. Draw the diagram so that everything lines up so the tops of the frets are co-planar with the top of your bridge. The bridge will raise enough to give you your action. Yes there is an easier way to do that angling too. Make a sled that holds the body at your desired angle (sled could be as easy as a shim under the body) and send it through your thickness sander, lowing it until the angle reaches past the bridge. Those are some EXPENSIVE materials (especially the neck) so be careful! Chris Ya i was talking about the intonation angle lol. I will have to give that a try... swend the lower end of the body through the drum sander first? And mark my angle lines to how far down I need to come? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 No, just put a shim under the front of the body so that part sticks up higher (you'll have to calculate how thick that shim needs to be with trig) and then send the body through in whichever direction you feel like it. Doesn't matter, it's still only gunna sand off the parts that stick up. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Like they said above... if you do the taper from the end of the body to just behind the bridge... don't worry about the angling the bridge... just drill perpendicular to that surface lol It's already angled If you were talking about the angle for INTONATION, then that's easy, put the bass side 1/8" further back. Done. Don't worry about the action. Draw the diagram so that everything lines up so the tops of the frets are co-planar with the top of your bridge. The bridge will raise enough to give you your action. Yes there is an easier way to do that angling too. Make a sled that holds the body at your desired angle (sled could be as easy as a shim under the body) and send it through your thickness sander, lowing it until the angle reaches past the bridge. Those are some EXPENSIVE materials (especially the neck) so be careful! Chris Spot on. as usual verhoevenc. I think you may be over thinking this one Steve. In reality its no more complicated than the last top you did, Just with a bit of a tilt on it. If you look at the guitar you are replicating you will see the bridge - pups - neck are all on a level plane. Remember the Les paul details I sent you ? those will be a good reference to help you figure out what your doing here (as you have no plans to work to for the PRS). Most of the body dimensions are fairly similar. Different scale lenght & body planes, but apart from that the differences are very very minor. Can you get a look at a real one ? or just find a **** load of piks online. Study the lot before you go any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCHueston0311 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 No, just put a shim under the front of the body so that part sticks up higher (you'll have to calculate how thick that shim needs to be with trig) and then send the body through in whichever direction you feel like it. Doesn't matter, it's still only gunna sand off the parts that stick up. Chris Ok i will get up with you today or tommorow when I figure out the body angle I need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.