DC Ross Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 So, say you wanted to cut an angled neck pocket with your 3-axis CNC. Is it possible to leave a smooth, flat bottom in the pocket? The way I see it, the bit would leave channels, since it's not perpendicular to the bottom of the pocket. Am I over thinking this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Can you fix the body at the proper angle and then cut the pocket square? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 (edited) Can you fix the body at the proper angle and then cut the pocket square? That was the only solution (other than a 4+ axis machine) I could think of, but I imagine it could introduce errors if not placed/angled absolutely precisely, since it would be cutting for the bridge separately. I also think that it could be really fiddly, but having limited CNC experience, I really don't know. Edited April 1, 2010 by DC Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 First is yes it will leave some radius. Now depending on the the diameter of the cutter and the stepover used, this radius can be very minimal. For instance using say 1/16" endmill for a finish pass with a 0.010 step over and a 1* angle, the cupping will be approx 0.0004. So if you want a 3* angle you are looking at maybe 0.0015. This is well within gluing specs for wood So it is not a problem in my opinion. Even if you use a 1/4" endmill and stepover say 12% the chord length is minimal and the cupping will be less than 0.005 still within gluing specs. Just my .02cents worth MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpmarsh Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I would prefer to cut the body neck pocket square and then design the angle into your neck heel. Assuming you are machining your own necks as well, this is very easy to do. Even without a 4axis machine, you should have nice results given the proper bit selection and step-over programming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmth Builder Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 If you angled the the body then the back 'wall' of the neck pocket would be cut with an angle in it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 If you angled the the body then the back 'wall' of the neck pocket would be cut with an angle in it as well. Thats something I didnt realize, could have been one of those 'Oh Crap' moments. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaden Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I can do it, its very dependent on the order and style of pocketing you use. I cut an angle in all my pockets amounting to about 0.5mm end to end. one solution is not to pocket at all but take "slices" from the pocket edges inwards in the long direction. if you only cut in one direction, its more than feasable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Postie Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 If you angled the the body then the back 'wall' of the neck pocket would be cut with an angle in it as well. Isn't that what you want though? Otherwise you'd have a gap with the neck heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Heres what I imagine both options would look like. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 I always leave a gap. it resides in the neck PU pocket. It's an end grain joint at that point and adds no strength but it does allow a method to inject steam for neck removal if needed. Also if you look at furniture and the proper way to make a tenon type joint you are to leave a gap at the end for expansion. A time tested method of traditional wood working Just my .02cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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