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Country Rhoads, Take Me Home...


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John - you know I aint makin assumptions but... ( theres always a but )

did you make your templates or by them? The top horn looks too fat or too short or something. Compared to a 2nd Gen RRV , its out of proportion pretty good. I still dig it , it just looks a little stumpy. :D

I got the template from a fellow PGer - Killemall. I got the Gibson V from him as well. If it's out a bit, oh well. Maybe it's a 1st gen RRV.

I thought we all knew that was the original rhoads shape???

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John - you know I aint makin assumptions but... ( theres always a but )

did you make your templates or by them? The top horn looks too fat or too short or something. Compared to a 2nd Gen RRV , its out of proportion pretty good. I still dig it , it just looks a little stumpy. :D

I got the template from a fellow PGer - Killemall. I got the Gibson V from him as well. If it's out a bit, oh well. Maybe it's a 1st gen RRV.

I thought we all knew that was the original rhoads shape???

I think I did know that , it just don't look quite long enough , but again , it's probably more to do with color/lack of pinstripes/camera angle thats tricking my eye....

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Did you do the inlays free hand with a dremel or did you use a template?

No templates.

I traced the outline with a sharp pencil, scored the inside of the lines as deeply as I could with an X-Acto knife, "hogged out" the majority of the material with a 1/16" bit in the laminate trim router, got close to the corners with the Dremel, then sharpened the corners & finessed the fit with the X-Acto.

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Zeb: FWIW, I don't plan on EVER making my own necks. There are just too many things that can seriously go wrong unless you're extremely meticulous with detail & measurement, which I'm not. I'll be happy as a lark buying them and doing my own inlay work and maybe shaping the headstock.

Hey, what a difference a few years makes :D

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Fretboard radiused, buffed to 4000, soaked in linseed oil, fretted (but not dressed), and side dots

wip18.jpg

I mentioned right off the bat that I was going to paint this one purple. Inspiration hit me when I went into an automotive store on a whim, looking for the right shade of purple.

wip19.jpg

I'm sure I've heard some of y'all yammering on about Dupli-Color and automotive paint, but I honestly never paid any attention. The conversation always centered around spraying, and since I can't do that, there was no point in it for me.

I saw this shade of metallic purple and I knew this Rhoads needed to be this color. In order for the colored metallic to really pop, the surface needed to have a chrome or chrome-like cast first. Fortunately, the can on the left is for just such a purpose. The directions said it'd work plastics & metal, so I dropped the $8/can and experimented on some scrap maple. It turned out OK, and there were no issues with the water-based poly I'll be putting over the top, so I'm all good to go.

wip20.jpg

It looks pretty dang cool as-is. I'm looking forward to getting the purple on it this weekend.

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The color is looking a bit blotchy at this point. IDK if it's uneven coverage, weird lighting, or what. I'm not done messing with it yet, so there are no worries for me at this point. I'll probably be getting another can of paint.

wip21.jpg

wip22.jpg

The neck is nowhere near the final product, but it's a dang sight closer than it was two days ago.

wip23.jpg

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I also like the back of the neck.

As for the blotchiness, it looks like uneven coverage. Candy colors are tought to spray in the first place because they show dark and light spots from uneven coverage. Spraying candys from a rattle can is even tougher because you do not get as even of a flow from the nozzle. Nor do you get as nice of a spray pattern or as much material for more even passes. I only did my first guitar with candys from a rattle can and it look about the same as yours. That was the last time I did candys from a spray can.

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I find that metallic paint from a spray can is best applied with quick, random gestures that lightly cover the entire surface of the guitar at once, keep going until it's all covered with paint.

I find it works a LOT better this way than if you try spraying slow, successive lines accross the guitar, as you would normally do.

Cheers,

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Now, on to the body....

Like I said - worst finish I've ever done. Ripply... like water.

wip27.jpg

Just to stress the point, here's a couple of pics after "highlighting" toe tops of the ripples with 220 on an orbital sander.

wip28.jpg

wip29.jpg

And here it is after getting the swirlies out with 320. Despite how it looks now, I applied no ore pressure than the weight of by hand.

wip30.jpg

I feel fortunate that I managed to NOT sand through anywhere when taking the ripples out. I'm curious how much clear is left at this point. Well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Tomorrow I'll get after it with some wet 400 & 600. If I'm feeling ambitious, I might even buff it all the way out. It all depends on how mich time I have between shifts.

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As long as you don't go deeper than the lowest dimple you should have plenty of clear left.....That sounds like I'm stating the obvious :D. Ths pics don't look like the clear was pulling away and leaving fisheyes. It just looks like you've got more leveling to do than you're used to.

So, I hope that wasn't the new process you were speaking of....

SR

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