John Abbett Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 All, The below picture is what I'm going for for finish. I've used natural maple binding, If I get stain on it, it will not come out easily. I've been thinking about it, and have a solution, I want to run it by the group and make sure I'm not missing something. With a rag. Not Sprayed.. 1. Mask the F-Hole Binding 2. Put the yellow on the middle, not all the way to the edge binding. 3. Sand back the curly maple parts to highlight. 4. Apply yellow for the finished color and depth again not all the way to the edge binding. 5. Apply the transition color, which is the light brown/red fade, not all the way to the binding. 6. Mask off the ebony part of the fingerboard 7. Spray a light coat of Nitro for a sealer on the whole guitar including the binding. 8. Let sit for a few days so I can mask over the lacquer. 9. Mask the binding. 10. Mask the center of the guitar with a egg shapped paper, just to catch drips. 11. Add my dark walnut/black to nitro and spray the edges (Toner/Shader) 12. Remove the binding mask and clean up any binding problems (Sealed up, it should clean up at this point). 13. Spray the rest of the nitro coats, let dry a while, level sand, buff, etc. This should keep my edge binding crisp, and if there are problems it should allow me to fix them without having stain on maple binding. The only tedious part will be the F-Holes. I was thinking I could take an artists brush and some masking and give them a vey light coat of nitro to seal them up. That may help a little with the bleed through. This should give me a highlighted, hand stained look in the middle, fade to dark, and the dark is opaque shader suspended in the lacquer. Any further suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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