s2p2e Posted June 21, 2010 Report Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) Okay, so I'm building my first guitar (http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43533) and I drew everything out to see if I would need a neck angle, which turned out to be about .3 degrees. I figured this meant that there really wasn't supposed to be one, so I just had the neck slightly above the body to compensate for the bridge height. Unfortunately, things didn't seem quite right when I tested the neck height and everything with a string hooked up to the top tuner on the neck, which was clamped to the body. The string was touching the fretboard to a decent extent and I thought I should try to incorporate a very small neck angle... This is where the fun begins. I started sanding part of the tenon off at an angle and it became uneven. So I went at it with a hand plane instead and... I kept having to take more and more of the tenon off to try to even it out, and at this point (I'm retarded...) The tenon of my bolt-on neck is pretty much literally flush with the neck itself.. I'm doing an oil finish on the neck and body, all of which is mahogany. So, I can't just glue an extension of the tenon on (Even if I did, I'd have to continue planing it, or *something* to try to get it flat and ready for gluing). Now, I'm thinking of taking some of the depth of the body off and just living with the neck... I don't know what to do... Any ideas? It just sucks that no matter how cautious I try to be with everything (Reading countless forums, Melvyn's book...), I still screwed a couple things up. They're fixable, I think (hope), but, still... I really appreciate it! Edited June 21, 2010 by s2p2e Quote
DC Ross Posted June 21, 2010 Report Posted June 21, 2010 Get some matching mahogany and glue it on, then shape it. It sucks, but it's not really that big of a deal to do. Quote
Woodenspoke Posted June 22, 2010 Report Posted June 22, 2010 +1. In fact that is the best screw up you could hope for and the fix is easy Quote
darkshadow54321 Posted June 22, 2010 Report Posted June 22, 2010 If you want to make it seem like it was done 'on purpose' you could add a contrasting veneer in between the mahogany pieces. Quote
s2p2e Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Posted June 22, 2010 Alright, thanks a lot! Yeah, I was thinking about doing the contrasting veneer; I'm probably going to get some black walnut soon. But, do you guys have any tips on getting the tenon completey straigh and ready for gluing, since I couldn't seem to get it right before? I just kinda have to be careful with it at this point. Thanks again, I really appreciate it. Quote
SwedishLuthier Posted June 22, 2010 Report Posted June 22, 2010 I think that question have only one answer: Practice on scrap until you feel comfortable enough to do it and get it right. Quote
low end fuzz Posted June 22, 2010 Report Posted June 22, 2010 it does matter what you have at your disposal; a quick jig and a run thru the thickness sander has gotten me outta this problem before; but something i seen for truing nuts might work; one of those hand drill sanding discs mounted on a drill press would get'r flat; kinda the same idea as a saf-t-planer or hand plane; or if your really desperate use a block to sand it as flat as u can and stick aveneer between the add-on and it will cover any small gaps.... kindof a scabby move but it will work! Quote
s2p2e Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Posted June 22, 2010 (edited) it does matter what you have at your disposal; a quick jig and a run thru the thickness sander has gotten me outta this problem before; but something i seen for truing nuts might work; one of those hand drill sanding discs mounted on a drill press would get'r flat; kinda the same idea as a saf-t-planer or hand plane; or if your really desperate use a block to sand it as flat as u can and stick aveneer between the add-on and it will cover any small gaps.... kindof a scabby move but it will work! Yeah, those would probably work pretty well. I just wish I had the tools to do either of them. XD And yeah, I'll probably just end up doing that last option. I'm trying to decide whether to use a nice curly redwood (Redwood 1 / Redwood 2) or black walnut (Black Walnut) for both the tenon and a little Inlay I have to do on the front, due to that other screw up of mine. Thanks! Edited June 22, 2010 by s2p2e Quote
s2p2e Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Posted June 22, 2010 I think that question have only one answer: Practice on scrap until you feel comfortable enough to do it and get it right. Tis what I'll do, with both the plane and just a sanding block. Practice makes... Not perfect, but definitely better. Thanks! Quote
KeithHowell Posted June 23, 2010 Report Posted June 23, 2010 Unfortunately, things didn't seem quite right when I tested the neck height and everything with a string hooked up to the top tuner on the neck, which was clamped to the body. The string was touching the fretboard to a decent extent and I thought I should try to incorporate a very small neck angle... Am I missing something? If the string was touching the fretboard with no neck angle why would you want to add an angle? This would only make the problem worse. Raising the bridge slightly would alleviate the issue. Lowering the neck would also work as long as the angle was not changed. Keith Quote
Woodenspoke Posted June 23, 2010 Report Posted June 23, 2010 Rather than accent your mistake I would just find a matching piece and let it go. Some larger heels are glued up in multiple layers and the practice is not frowned upon. Adding a strip is a non standard practice and will make it stand out and look odd. Hiding the error is the first priority never turning it into a design element. Color or stain will make it even less visible. You must have had some scrap during the build? If you didn't save any this is another lesson learned, dont toss large scraps until its finished, just in case. Quote
WezV Posted June 23, 2010 Report Posted June 23, 2010 Hiding the error is the first priority never turning it into a design element. i disagree spoke. i find a clever solution to a problem like this much more appealing and it can even lead to new ideas. that is unless its a replica/repair, those really should be hidden Quote
s2p2e Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Posted June 23, 2010 Unfortunately, things didn't seem quite right when I tested the neck height and everything with a string hooked up to the top tuner on the neck, which was clamped to the body. The string was touching the fretboard to a decent extent and I thought I should try to incorporate a very small neck angle... Am I missing something? If the string was touching the fretboard with no neck angle why would you want to add an angle? This would only make the problem worse. Raising the bridge slightly would alleviate the issue. Lowering the neck would also work as long as the angle was not changed. Keith I think you may be right... I may have misinterpreted the purpose of a neck angle.... Looks like I'm going back and rereading. Raising the bridge, I did try, but it couldn't be raised enough to solve the problem. I thought about getting the router out, realigning the template and lowering it, but I thought this way would be slightly easier (Reshaping the tenon); plus I *thought* it needed a neck angle. I suppose I was wrong on both counts. Thanks! Spencer Quote
s2p2e Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Posted June 23, 2010 Rather than accent your mistake I would just find a matching piece and let it go. Some larger heels are glued up in multiple layers and the practice is not frowned upon. Adding a strip is a non standard practice and will make it stand out and look odd. Hiding the error is the first priority never turning it into a design element. Color or stain will make it even less visible. You must have had some scrap during the build? If you didn't save any this is another lesson learned, dont toss large scraps until its finished, just in case. I've been thinking about that. Since the Walnut or Redwood will just be in that small space (Not all along the neck), I'm not sure it'll work too well. I have to order the wood anyways though, for something I've gotta take care of near the pickups. I guess I can always see how it looks and decide form there. And I do have scrap wood; I saved it for finishing tests and such, so I'm glad I have it. I do agree with you in some cases, about hiding the mistake being the first priority, but I think that sometimes the experimental ideas can be rewarding in the end, even if they're a little odd.. It's hard to say how this will really look right now though. Thanks! Spencer Quote
chops1983 Posted June 23, 2010 Report Posted June 23, 2010 Im still a bit confused. Is the string touching the frets? Or does it have a massive action issue? Quote
Woodenspoke Posted June 24, 2010 Report Posted June 24, 2010 Hiding the error is the first priority never turning it into a design element. i disagree spoke. i find a clever solution to a problem like this much more appealing and it can even lead to new ideas. that is unless its a replica/repair, those really should be hidden I have never run into a mistake I cant mask from others. If I have to modify my design its something that results in a new piece of fire wood. The last big mistake was putting a dot in the wrong place on a fingerboard. I still have the board but I hand it to students to give then a feel for hammering in frets, Right before I show them the fret press we will be using. I mean yes there are some mistakes you cant fix and sometimes modifying the design is justified. A big plus is chipped body edges where a shape can be easly modified to remove the chip. But in this case I dont see the reason to accent a spot which will be laregly ignored except by the builder. Quote
low end fuzz Posted June 24, 2010 Report Posted June 24, 2010 my suggestions were made on the basis that he sounds like he doesnt have a lot of tools in his possesion and just wantsto have a proper working guitar; and if he keeps planing he's gonna change the profile of the back of the neck; if he doesnt keep planing he could end up with an ugly glue line Quote
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