Putting A Bent Ascew Fretboard On A Neck

[Metallion]

Have an old flatsawn Rosewood fretboard I plan to put on a maple scarf neck with 2-way trussrod.

FB has over time become bent and ascew.

Can I use it? What adjustments can be done?

Or are the (flatsawn) forces the board puts on the neck too weak to have any effect on the straightness/linearity of the resulting glued neck?

What aspects do I have to pay attention to when glueing it to the neck?

Equipment?

About a 5mm, 1/4" cranny visible, where the board "arches the back".

Edited July 9, 2010 by Metallion

[RestorationAD]

Have an old flatsawn Rosewood fretboard I plan to put on a maple scarf neck with 2-way trussrod.

FB has over time become bent and ascew.

Can I use it? What adjustments can be done?

Or are the (flatsawn) forces the board puts on the neck too weak to have any effect on the straightness/linearity of the resulting glued neck?

What aspects do I have to pay attention to when glueing it to the neck?

Equipment?

About a 5mm, 1/4" cranny visible, where the board "arches the back".

Done it with lots of clamps and proper caul and got lucky once or twice. Your mileage may vary.

[Metallion]

Done it with lots of clamps and proper caul and got lucky once or twice. Your mileage may vary.

"got lucky once or twice", Eep, not encouraging prospect odds.

Anyone tried Stewmac's "Fingerboard Band Clamp"?

Can they provide efficient pressure for a warped FB, or are the pressure they apply too weak?

Edited July 9, 2010 by Metallion

[RestorationAD]

Done it with lots of clamps and proper caul and got lucky once or twice. Your mileage may vary.

"got lucky once or twice", Eep, not encouraging prospect odds.

Anyone tried Stewmac's "Fingerboard Band Clamp"?

Can they provide efficient pressure for a warped FB, or are the pressure they apply too weak?

For this situation "too weak".

I have only tried to glue a very warped board on a few occasions. And only when the grain pattern was an exceptional one of a kind piece or I was prototyping and didn't want to waste a good piece.

When I have done it ... One thing to remember is that my necks are still square on the back when I do this. I am not recommending you do this! I am detailing risks I have taken.

I cut 2 1"x1/2" strips of hard maple the length of the fretboard. After gluing everything up I position the 2 strips on each side of the neck and line them with clamps. No spaces using every clamp in the shop.

This piece of coco was severely twisted but the grain was too sweet to not try it.

[Metallion]

For this situation "too weak".

I have only tried to glue a very warped board on a few occasions. And only when the grain pattern was an exceptional one of a kind piece or I was prototyping and didn't want to waste a good piece.

When I have done it ... One thing to remember is that my necks are still square on the back when I do this. I am not recommending you do this! I am detailing risks I have taken.

I cut 2 1"x1/2" strips of hard maple the length of the fretboard. After gluing everything up I position the 2 strips on each side of the neck and line them with clamps. No spaces using every clamp in the shop.

This piece of coco was severely twisted but the grain was too sweet to not try it.

Would carbon fiber rods on the sides (of trussrod) have any sufficient inmpact on the stability/rigidity here?

What dimensions would be necessary?

The board can be pressed flat by hand, but the Q is if those forces are locked by the glue after mounting, or will the FS board alter the neck shape after a while?

Edited July 10, 2010 by Metallion

[killemall8]

Ive glued a slightly twisted fretboard to a 3 piece maple neck, and it worked well. It never twisted the neck, after i leveled the fretboard. I did it just to see if it would work.

[RestorationAD]

For this situation "too weak".

I have only tried to glue a very warped board on a few occasions. And only when the grain pattern was an exceptional one of a kind piece or I was prototyping and didn't want to waste a good piece.

When I have done it ... One thing to remember is that my necks are still square on the back when I do this. I am not recommending you do this! I am detailing risks I have taken.

I cut 2 1"x1/2" strips of hard maple the length of the fretboard. After gluing everything up I position the 2 strips on each side of the neck and line them with clamps. No spaces using every clamp in the shop.

This piece of coco was severely twisted but the grain was too sweet to not try it.

Would carbon fiber rods on the sides (of trussrod) have any sufficient inmpact on the stability/rigidity here?

What dimensions would be necessary?

The board can be pressed flat by hand, but the Q is if those forces are locked by the glue after mounting, or will the FS board alter the neck shape after a while?

I stay away from carbon fiber rods so you might ask some of the guys who use them.

I doubt a 3/16" piece of rosewood could move a quartersawn or laminated neck. On a flatsawn one piece you might need something but it is doubtful.

+1 Killemall