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Trem Prob's


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After doing three basses in the last 4 months I decided to do a strat. What decided it was a guy ordered it and he had money B)

Anyhoo, I have had no prob's to this point until I went to put the trem in. The body is 1.5" thick and the trem is designed for 1-5/8. No problem, I hacked off 3/16" from the bottom of the trem and mounted it up. When I put the springs on the keep popping out of the trem! It seems like I have to rout a little deeper in the body for the spring plate to get a deeper angle, but it's not making sense to me why they just don't stay in. I've tried setting the spring hook angle (the "L" that hooks in =to the trem body) and had some success but after a few tugs on the trem arm the springs work loose again.

Here's the trem I'm using:

Wilkinson Tremolo

Any ideas???? :D

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Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

when you shaved the trem, the holes the springs go into were shaved too. Just redrill those on a drill press another 1/4", and the prob will be gone.

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when you shaved the trem, the holes the springs go into were shaved too. Just redrill those on a drill press another 1/4", and the prob will be gone

I did that before I asked and it didn't help.

Those holes are angled slightly to keep the springs from popping out. If you took the soring block off to grind it make sure you put it on the right way. It sounds like you have the block on backwards

I didn't take the block apart so it's not on backwards. I have a padded vise that it fit nice and snug in and I took the 3/16" off with a hacksaw and filed it smooth. I did think of a solution while lying awake last night PO'd at myself that has to do with something you did mention Scott. You mentioned the holes are angled, and I redrilled straight holes (Doh!!). I'm going to move the holes back today and drill them at an angle and see if that works. There's plenty of material to work with and the holes are tiny to begin with so I don't think I'll affect sound any by adding another 3 holes.

Thanks Guys!!! I'll let you know how it turns out.

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There is one more way... :D

I saw this on my Erlewine tremolo installation video.

For tremolos with very deep recessed rear routes, allowing the player to do SEVERE up-pulls, the spring block can go forward so much the springs can lose tension/angle and pop out.

His answer? To make a little aluminum clamping block for the bottom of the spring block. He drills 2 extra holes into the spring block, in between the spring receptor holes, taps them out, then cuts a little piece of 1/8" aluminum block to the same size as the spring block bottom.

Install the springs, then screw the aluminum block into the spring block via the two new screw holes, and whola, the spring ends are now clamped in place.

Just another way...

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Are those drywall screws holding the spring claw? I'd swap them out for some neck screws. Drywall screws a really brittle they don't flex even a little bit. if you go too crazy on that whammy the heads are liable to snap off without warning. and don't forget to ground the bridge too unless you're using Active Pickups :D

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Uh, I think I just figured out where you just 'happened' to find an extra piece.

Isn't that the piece you just cut off?

Yes it is! I decided to flip it and use it - always remember to recycle!

and doesn't that make it as thick as it was to begin with?

Nope! I laid my file in the vise and filed it down until it cleared the trem pocket when I pressed the bar forward all the way.

Are those drywall screws holding the spring claw? I'd swap them out for some neck screws. Drywall screws a really brittle they don't flex even a little bit. if you go too crazy on that whammy the heads are liable to snap off without warning. and don't forget to ground the bridge too unless you're using Active Pickups

Good eye Scott! (and thanks for the trem!! :D ) Yep, drywall screws for a temporary job. I'll save the good ones for the final assembly. I will also ground the bridge to the tab at final assembly. I'm just at the point of assembling everything for the first time to check for fit. I will then strip the body (easy Wes!!) and give it a final sanding and finish. then reassemble with the "good" parts. I always fit everything before I finish so I can find problems before I waste a good paint job on a body that won't work.

Thanks for the input!

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Just for future reference - if anyone needs to shorten the inertia block of a floyd bridge (it may fit the Wilkinson also, I don't know) - you can just buy a shorter block from AllParts, ... I think it's about $18 if I remember. For me, it is worth it since I have very little free time to build.

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Just for future reference - if anyone needs to shorten the inertia block of a floyd bridge (it may fit the Wilkinson also, I don't know) - you can just buy a shorter block from AllParts, ... I think it's about $18 if I remember. For me, it is worth it since I have very little free time to build

I've got more time than money!! :D

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It actually only took about 20 minutes to modify. The problem I have is this guitar is sold and I am way behind on getting it done (he's also behind on paying so I'm not in THAT much of a rush). I was kidding about the time vs money thing that's why I put the "killin' me" guy in there. I just didn't feel like sinking any more money into it at this point and I really can't afford to wait another week for parts. I hope to have this project wrapped up by the weekend so I can get to building my next one.

:D

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It actually only took about 20 minutes to modify.

Wow, 20 minutes to hack saw the block, file, re-drill, tap, make the spring cover plate,... ! That's quick!

The comment about buying the shorter block was actually posted for other builders that may run into this in the future. I didn't think it would make sense for you to buy one at this point. I know what you mean about waiting for parts though. The shorter block is one of the first things I order (and other things from AllParts) since it usually takes a while for them to get it to me.

In my situation, with the wife and kids, ... finding time to build is hard to do. That's why I suggested buying the shorter block (for those who have a similar situation).

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After doing three basses in the last 4 months I decided to do a strat. What decided it was a guy ordered it and he had money B)

Anyhoo, I have had no prob's to this point until I went to put the trem in. The body is 1.5" thick and the trem is designed for 1-5/8. No problem, I hacked off 3/16" from the bottom of the trem and mounted it up. When I put the springs on the keep popping out of the trem! It seems like I have to rout a little deeper in the body for the spring plate to get a deeper angle, but it's not making sense to me why they just don't stay in. I've tried setting the spring hook angle (the "L" that hooks in =to the trem body) and had some success but after a few tugs on the trem arm the springs work loose again.

Here's the trem I'm using:

Wilkinson Tremolo

Any ideas???? :D

the holes in the trem block for the springs to hook into are drilled at an angle to insure they stay in place

when you reinstalled the trem block after shortening it you may have reversed it

the holes would be angled towards the front of the guitar thus allowing the springs to easily slip out

happened to me once when i had to shorten a block to accomodate a rescess rout i did for a guy once

drove me crazy till i figgured out what i'd done

also on this one i had to drill the spring tip holes a little deeper to get them seated to their full depth

hope this helps

dr

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