How Easy Is It To Set A Neck?

[poptartpower]

I am still poking around the different offerings of guitar kits. At the moment, I am leaning toward a bolt-on neck configuration. Everything about a bolt-on neck configuration seems easier. Despite that, I am still intrigued by the body shapes and designs with set neck configurations. There are Explorers and archtops that I simply can't take my eyes off of.

So my question is this. How easy is it to correctly secure a set neck and not worry about ripping it off and remounting it if I see it needs to be shimmed?

-- Boris

[killemall8]

If i can do it, anybody can... Just measure your neck angle MANY times... Before you glue the neck in, put it in the pocket, and place yoru bridge on the guitar. Then, put a long straight edge all the way from teh first fret to the bridge. If it clears teh bridge, then it is a good neck angle.

[doug]

That's pretty much it... However you should at least clamp the neck solidly in place then check bridge height again. Believe it or not, that last little bit of forced settling can make or break your ideal angle. Much easier dry than with sticky goo all over it...:o)

[jaycee]

Draw it out FULL SCALE neck, pocket and bridge. 2-3 degrees is about average for a tom bridge.

[poptartpower]

That seems too simple!

So all I need to do is:

1) Place the neck, not glued, into the neck pocket.

2) Make sure it's in all the way.

3) Insert the bridge posts into the body and place the bridge onto the posts.

4) Place a yard stick from the 1st fret to the bridge.

5) Check for clearance between the bottom of the yardstick and the frets below.

What should the clearances be? And should the truss rod be all the way loose, tight, or somewhere in between?

Am I just over-thinking this?

If that's all I need to do then my possibilities for a guitar kit really open up!

-- Boris

[Prostheta]

Generally your trussrod should be left loose - you'll just readjust it when it's strung up to counteract the pull of the strings, so to all intents and purposes it's easier to presume your neck to be straight during measuring and after install. That said, allowing a little angle to dial in some backbow doesn't go amiss although I started to dial in some drop off from 12th when fret levelling.

Overthinking? Nah - as long as it doesn't stop you from actually getting the work done, you can measure and consider the task many times for free rather than settling on making a hasty and expensive mistake ;-)

[DC Ross]

What should the clearances be? And should the truss rod be all the way loose, tight, or somewhere in between?

Adjust the neck so it's perfectly flat when measuring. I'd aim for the bridge to be even with the frets at its lowest position (i.e. the straightedge touches the fret tops and the bridge saddle).

[Musiclogic]

Most kits already have the tenon cut for proper alignment. It's usually just glue and clamp with a kit. Checking is always a must before gluing(common sense) but it should be pretty straight forward. Tape off side of body around neck rout and around top rout, Glue the pocket, glue the tenon, start adding clamp pressure from top of tenon perssing into place, start adding pressure on heel to seat properly against body edge, keep adding pressure to each clamp until locked in place, flush with rout, and flush with body. Take a damp rag and wipe away the squeeze out. Then clean join seam thoroughly to make sure of even finish color on whole guitar.

[avengers63]

ADDITIONAL POINT!!!!!!

When it comes time to mark the pocket for routing, have the nut taped in place as well. When you're testing the placement, tape 2 pieces of string in the saddles of the E strings on the bridge. Run them to the nut. The strings simulate the read guitar strings. Use these to check for string alignment & straightness along the fretboard.

Even if the neck pocket on the kit is routed for a set neck and the bridge placement is drilled, double check it like this.

Do this when it's time to glue the neck into place too. You can't be too careful. Once the glue is dry, you're stuck, ESPECIALLY if the bridge has been drilled already.