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Posted

If the guitar is designed to have a glued-in neck, then yes, you glue the neck in and then finish it as a whole.

Having said that...

If you understand the particulars of building guitars, then you have the ability to customize YOUR application any way you want to, but you better understand those particulars before you head off down that road. :D

For example, sometimes I'll completely finish a body off before I route for pickups and hardware.

I don't always do this, I don't even -normally- do it that way, but whenever I feel I -want- to go that way, I can easily do it, because I understand how everything effects everything else, so then I can play with my recipe however I want and make it work.

The less experience you have, the more I recommend doing it by the book, the more experience you have, the more you can play with the sauce along the way and be OK. :D

Posted
If the guitar is designed to have a glued-in neck, then yes, you glue the neck in and then finish it as a whole.

Having said that...

If you understand the particulars of building guitars, then you have the ability to customize YOUR application any way you want to, but you better understand those particulars before you head off down that road. :D

For example, sometimes I'll completely finish a body off before I route for pickups and hardware.

I don't always do this, I don't even -normally- do it that way, but whenever I feel I -want- to go that way, I can easily do it, because I understand how everything effects everything else, so then I can play with my recipe however I want and make it work.

The less experience you have, the more I recommend doing it by the book, the more experience you have, the more you can play with the sauce along the way and be OK. :D

thank you very much !

i am not a professional so i do things with the certain way.....but for my case i wanted to finish with poly the body and oil or finish with mat nitro the neck.So,

having them glued would be a small problem...so i thought gluing them after separate finish/oiling....That's why i wanted to know if this way is first mentioned

or other people have tried it..

thanks for the interest

Posted (edited)
Ah, I see what you meant now. Like Drak says, it's kind of up to you. I'm in the finishing stages of a guitar with an oiled neck that won't be glued in until the body is clearcoated.

THAT'S WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!!

Ah, I see what you meant now. Like Drak says, it's kind of up to you. I'm in the finishing stages of a guitar with an oiled neck that won't be glued in until the body is clearcoated.

THAT'S WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!!

btw the headplate is usually oiled finished in oil finished necks or gloss if the body is glossy??

i mean i need an opinion...

Edited by MexicanBreed
Posted

I preffer to finish the head with a gloss coat. But that is partially because my headstock decals won't stand the wear and tear if not covered by several coats of finish.

Posted

I don't have any real direct experience with this. But I'd like to make a suggestion, just purely for your consideration.

I'm currently looking at two guitars where I sit. One of them is a Moog Guitar, the other one is a Japanese Fender Jaguar. Both of them have glossy finished bodies and headstock faces, but the backs of the necks are matte/satin. The Moog was like that when I got, simple as that. The Jag is a bolt neck, but I refinished the headstock face and then used a synthetic steel wool pad on the back of the neck to blend my touch-ups all together and because the guy who its for likes a satin neck.

Just thinking about these two guitars and what you're trying to achieve, my suggestion would be to glue the neck in and finish the whole guitar just like you normally would, using a glossy lacquer/poly/whatever. After the finish is cured, tape off everywhere around the playing area of the neck, or just you know, everywhere that you want to stay glossy. Use a really low-tack tape. Then hit the exposed area with the scuff pad, until you've achieved the level of satin you want.

Posted
I don't have any real direct experience with this. But I'd like to make a suggestion, just purely for your consideration.

I'm currently looking at two guitars where I sit. One of them is a Moog Guitar, the other one is a Japanese Fender Jaguar. Both of them have glossy finished bodies and headstock faces, but the backs of the necks are matte/satin. The Moog was like that when I got, simple as that. The Jag is a bolt neck, but I refinished the headstock face and then used a synthetic steel wool pad on the back of the neck to blend my touch-ups all together and because the guy who its for likes a satin neck.

Just thinking about these two guitars and what you're trying to achieve, my suggestion would be to glue the neck in and finish the whole guitar just like you normally would, using a glossy lacquer/poly/whatever. After the finish is cured, tape off everywhere around the playing area of the neck, or just you know, everywhere that you want to stay glossy. Use a really low-tack tape. Then hit the exposed area with the scuff pad, until you've achieved the level of satin you want.

you mean that mat finish=woolsteel sanded gloss finish if i understood correct?

Posted

Back to the glue up question. First dont use wood glue, once you seal the wood (apply a finish) it cannot be absorbed into the wood fibers which is how it forms a bond. You mentioned epoxy, I suggest you use it for this application. Also masking tape between the two pieces will prevent a big mess on the finish. remove the tape once the neck is clamped and wipe the joint down with Alcoohol to remove any excess epoxy. You may still need to do some finish touch up afterwards. I would use a 20 minute epoxy as the 5 minute will not provide you with enought time to fiddle with and clean the joint.

Posted
Back to the glue up question. First dont use wood glue, once you seal the wood (apply a finish) it cannot be absorbed into the wood fibers which is how it forms a bond. You mentioned epoxy, I suggest you use it for this application. Also masking tape between the two pieces will prevent a big mess on the finish. remove the tape once the neck is clamped and wipe the joint down with Alcoohol to remove any excess epoxy. You may still need to do some finish touch up afterwards. I would use a 20 minute epoxy as the 5 minute will not provide you with enought time to fiddle with and clean the joint.

but the areas which are supposed to be glued will be tape-covered so they will be ready to accept wood glue...Besides i f i seal it and then use epoxy,will

epoxy work well over a sealed area???i think it will but it's a bit risky..

btw for neck joint many prefer hide glues,other titebond but few people use epoxy because its very hard and does not "feel" the vibrations...so

it would be a bit dead...what is your opinion???

Posted
you mean that mat finish=woolsteel sanded gloss finish if i understood correct?

Yeah, that's basically what I'm saying. It worked well on the poly finish on this Jag neck anyway.

well yesterday i got an idea about your post!!

what if we wax the glossy area we wanna change to mat??

wax and polish...

Posted
Back to the glue up question. First dont use wood glue, once you seal the wood (apply a finish) it cannot be absorbed into the wood fibers which is how it forms a bond. You mentioned epoxy, I suggest you use it for this application. Also masking tape between the two pieces will prevent a big mess on the finish. remove the tape once the neck is clamped and wipe the joint down with Alcoohol to remove any excess epoxy. You may still need to do some finish touch up afterwards. I would use a 20 minute epoxy as the 5 minute will not provide you with enought time to fiddle with and clean the joint.

but the areas which are supposed to be glued will be tape-covered so they will be ready to accept wood glue...Besides i f i seal it and then use epoxy,will

epoxy work well over a sealed area???i think it will but it's a bit risky..

btw for neck joint many prefer hide glues,other titebond but few people use epoxy because its very hard and does not "feel" the vibrations...so

it would be a bit dead...what is your opinion???

Anything that will stop wood glue for mating with raw wood will make the joint weak... Anything even a light oil sealer.......

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