Drak Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I have not much experience w/ rattlers beyond using black lacquer rattlers for easy trim details, but I might recommend ReRanch for rattler info, they sort of specialize in rattle can lacquer guitar applications. Asking about rattle can poly for guitars is sort of voluntarily throwing yourself into a deep Snakepit, you never know what's down there that might bite you, and I personally would avoid them like the plague. I break it down like this: I buy my basic supplies from Home Depot, I buy my finishes from a local professional finish supplier. When you buy your FINISHES from a place like HD, you are basically giving away any hope of a Professional Finish. They don't sell or offer professional finishes, they sell Weekend Warrior finishes that typically are not professional grade. Up to you. You were given good, solid advice for waterbased lacquer, including websites, forums, etc. I would stick to the path of professionalism and follow that trail, it will take you more time, but is probably worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDub Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Just learned something. I just read, and can't verify the accuracy of this, but... Thining will make laquer dry quicker, and be worse than brushing straight. You use retarder instead, because it slows drying time allowing the product to flow out better. Makes sense. Also makes sense to add a little time to your cure time before leveling than with straight laquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Four, with Regular Brushing Lacquer, they add more RETARDER into it so it doesn't dry on you instantly and to give it the necessary flow-out ability, but if you add too much retarder, your finish will NEVER dry. Remember, RETARDER, not THINNER. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar101 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 <slaps head> ...I forgot it's waterbased, cleanup's a breeze! But I might check into it if I were you, I'm almost certain waterbased lac is a 2-part reactive curing type of finish. I'm guessing there is a 'window' of re-application time, maybe a few hours?, but not like a true film finish like regular lacquer where there is NO window, it ALWAYS melts back into itself, there is no time period. Worth checking into. Clear Gloss Topcoat is a crystal-clear acrylic waterbase lacquer that has 100% burn-in between coats, without a time limit. That makes it repairable, much like nitrocellulose lacquer. It is a thermoplastic resin and will shrink and move around with the heat of buffing. 25-30% of the final finish thickness should be lacquer topcoats. It sands and buffs well to a high gloss, with good hardness and durability. Full chemical cure occurs in 150 hours. Waterbase Retarder or WATER can be added to reduce viscosity. When hot/dry conditions cause the finish to dry too fast, thin with 5%-15% Waterbase Retarder. http://www.stewmac.com item number 5570 also didn't say anything about NEEDING any other product for curing either on the company website or the label. Some time ago I researched this and the StewMac stuff is made by Target Coatings. Here is a link to their web page. http://www.targetcoatings.com/emtech-6000.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wander Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 i was at my paint store yesterday looking at what they had and noticed Minwax has a water based brush on line as well, currently researching how comparable it is to other more traditional lacquers and i sprayed up some sample boards over the weekend. should be an interesting couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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