Level Fretboard

[boundsteelblues]

I apologize for a naïve question, but I see how a false move at this stage is going to mean problems later on. I sanded my preslotted and radiused fretboard and thought I had it very flat per my straight edge. Apparently, I need stronger readers because I’ve noticed now that the front half of the first fret dips down (to the my best estimate) 1/64th of an inch. Let’s say you can see some light. Real hard to measure without three hands. I am 6.10 mm at the center of the fretboard at the end of the guitar end and 5.9 mm at the nut end. From something I read, I don’t think I want to take it down any thinner. Thinking I was done, I sanded the fretboard up to mirror shine.

Is this slight dip in the first half of the first fret a problem or am I making too much out of it?

[Woodenspoke]

I apologize for a naïve question, but I see how a false move at this stage is going to mean problems later on. I sanded my preslotted and radiused fretboard and thought I had it very flat per my straight edge. Apparently, I need stronger readers because I've noticed now that the front half of the first fret dips down (to the my best estimate) 1/64th of an inch. Let's say you can see some light. Real hard to measure without three hands. I am 6.10 mm at the center of the fretboard at the end of the guitar end and 5.9 mm at the nut end. From something I read, I don't think I want to take it down any thinner. Thinking I was done, I sanded the fretboard up to mirror shine.

Is this slight dip in the first half of the first fret a problem or am I making too much out of it?

No matter how flat or how straight everything is it will change one its glued onto the neck. If the fretboard is not on the neck worry about it later..

You only need two hands, one to hold the straight edge the other the neck. The secret is have a light behind the two so you can see gaps. 1/64 is pretty big. To properly level a fret board requires a flat sanding beam, which should also be checked to make sure its dead flat. Get a red or white pencil and make criss Cross lines o n the board (dark board only). Then sand them off. You will see which spots have not been sanded. I usually mark my board two or three times. Once all the color is gone the board is flat. A slight dip at the top of the first fret next to the nut will make no difference as long as its really close to the nut and not halfway down the first fret.

Dont expect a board to come flat. Dont expect it to stay flat once its glued. Its wood, wood moves. This is why I always fret my neck after it is glued on and leveled again, and it has been checked after a few days. Some will fret then glue but I dont trust the wood I use to cooperate with that method..

[boundsteelblues]

The board is glued on. I was uncertain about going back to try to get this mor elevel due to the thickness of the board itself at this point.

[Musiclogic]

you can safely go to 5 mm on a guitar, I would not go past 5.7mm which will give you about .225 inch this is as thin as I like to go, but I know guys who radius to .20 inch. so I think a little more leveling will be fine. just true it up with a long flat sander then re-touch the radius.

[boundsteelblues]

Thanks for the advice and confidence. Everything went well. I ended up at 5.7 mm too.

you can safely go to 5 mm on a guitar, I would not go past 5.7mm which will give you about .225 inch this is as thin as I like to go, but I know guys who radius to .20 inch. so I think a little more leveling will be fine. just true it up with a long flat sander then re-touch the radius.