tjiscooler Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Hey all, I've ran into a few instruments that had too much relief in the neck but the truss seemed maxed out and I couldn't get rid of it. Is there anything to do about this? Also, how far can you push a rod before something breaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 There is no set answer to how much pressure a rod can take.It depends on the rod and the neck construction..I am guessing it is a single action rod that gives you problems,because double action rods are very strong. One thing I have done is to loosen the strings up and pull the headstock towards me while tightening up the nut...it releases some of the tension on the nut so it turns easier...but you should only go about 1/4 turn max at a time and then let the neck sit for a few hours before checking it again...sometimes it takes a bit before it straightens out... But the truth is that in some cases you just can't get it as straight as you want it without risking the rod.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helldunkel Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 I've tested that because I wanted to see for myself! After installation and a little turn to make it snug, the braking point of the stew mac double way hot rod (which is my favourite truss rod) brakes after a full turn (I mean you must really force it)... I've tested this twice on 2 necks (one flamed maple - one sipo mahogany) on which I made mistakes and I then used them as dummy necks for the test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratoskier Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) I've also had that problem (maxed or insanely tight rods) on two guitars. The solution for me was to use Dan Erlewine's clamp method as described in one of his Stew Mac Trade Secrets columns. I'm not sure if this method is also provided in his book, but it might be. Basically, you rig up a C-clamp system with a couple of wood blocks, tighten the clamps to straighten the neck, and then you use the rod to hold it in place. As Erlewine described, you use the clamps to do all the "heavy lifting." It might seem like this wouldn't work, but it sure did for me and the neck never shifted after that. Now anytime I encounter a questionable rod, I apply this method to avoid the risk of a broken rod or stripped nut. Cheers, Bert Edited December 20, 2010 by stratoskier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 another important step to prevent broken rods is to loosen before tightening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 +1 on loosen, clean and then lube before tightening. Check to see if the washer is being pushed into the wood of the neck. Sometimes if that is the case, as second washer can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjiscooler Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Thank you so much guys! That book by Dan is very good. Hufschmid, very valuable info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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