David Abbott Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Hi everyone, Does anyone have the dimensions for a star guitar body like this: Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 I have a warlock body I can measure if that is close enough to what u want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Abbott Posted December 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 I have a warlock body I can measure if that is close enough to what u want. Nah, I've never really liked the B.C Rich body styles except for the Mockingbird but thanks anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 I always thought of the star as a ripoff of the Ironbird...but I really don't know which came first. http://ts2.mm.bing.net/images/thumbnail.as...29bb21e144db6ed The thing I like the most about BC Rich is the shapes...the rest sucks...I even bought a KK Wartribe once and even that was a POS. I did play a USA Rich once though which was really well put together..but it was still neck heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae3 Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Find a high-res pic of one, blow it up to scale and print it. There's a tutorial about it on this forum. http://www.guitarsatbmusic.com.au/esp/guit..._latvala_gd.jpg Found one for ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 well for some reason i was thinking the warlock was a little more star shaped. long story on how i got it but im not too much of a fan of them either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Abbott Posted December 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Find a high-res pic of one, blow it up to scale and print it. There's a tutorial about it on this forum. http://www.guitarsatbmusic.com.au/esp/guit..._latvala_gd.jpg Found one for ya This one? I'll try it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Abbott Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 (edited) I have a question. When squaring out the area between the Floyd Rose bridge and the locking nut do you include the whole bridge or only up to the point at which the strings go into the bridge? And also do you only go up to the nut or the other side of the nut or the center of the nut (this being a locking nut the strings are clamped down in the middle right?). Basically I'm confused as to how much to include to the left and right of the squared area. Edited December 27, 2010 by David Abbott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae3 Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 Only use the distance between where the highest and lowest string enter the bridge. And yes the clamp is in the middle but measure from the edge of the nut that faces the fretboard. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfsd Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 you can use any of the plans floating around for the washburn ml series, the ones that dimebag played...they look pretty similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I normally import these images into CAD and scale them based on the distance from the 12th fret to the nut if the fingerboard is of a known scale and is not compensated. It usually leaves me within a few mm of the actual size which is about 1% accuracy tolerance. Many product shots that appear to be completely "front on" possess a significant degree of distortion so I only use this method to determine the body size roughly and checking accuracy by other knowns such as the width of an EMG or string spacing at the bridge. It is doubtful you will find the exact dimensions of this design unless somebody physically has one in addition to the time to measure it. I would take a (usually less than) 1% tolerance as being better for immediate results so unless you are after a perfect perfect perfect copy, scale away in CAD or Photoshop as mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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