Qualia Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Since I was about 15/16 I've wanted to build my own guitars, I'm now 22 and I want to start planning my first build. I've already started in my head and have been reading up/thinking about what I want it to be like. I want to keep it fairly simple as it's a first build and I plan on continuing to build after this first attempt (if all goes to plan, which I understand that it probably won't). OK, so I'm looking to build myself an 8 String guitar. I've been looking at various production model 8 strings and have been figuring out what parts I want. So far I know this much... Low profile super-strat style body, taking inspiration from Blackmachine.27" Scale bolt-on neck tuned F C F Bb Eb G C F (Again quite low profile), not sure what to do about reinforcement/truss rods etc.A single EMG 808 Bridge pick-up.Single CTS Volume Pot.8 x Single ABM Bridges.Sperzel Locking Machine Heads.Potentially a top of some sort. As for woods, I have managed to find myself a local tree surgeon who keeps all that he cuts down. He uses a lot of his wood for "turning" and selling on, he stores/drys all his wood correctly and has the means of cutting it to any size that I need, he has quoted me £30 per body blank from any of these woods.AshAcaciaOlive AshAfromosiaBeechBubingaSpalted BeechBoxwoodCedarChestnut sweet/ burrEnglish Elm - Wych or BurrLimeEnglish Oak - Brown, Holm, Turkey, Bog.PaduakPurple HeartPoplar or Burr PoplarSapeleSycamoreTiger MyrtleCanadian RedwoodUtileWengeWalnutYew The wood is where I am really stuck. I don't want a guitar that is going to break my back but I want something that is going to feel nice, solid, balanced and have the correct tonal qualities, ideally something that can handle the low end frequencies nicely, a good mid tone with a nice amount of attack, and then obviously a sweet top end. Maybe that is just too much of a fantasy or is it actually doable? I really like the look of Olive Ash and ideally want a light wood guitar. As for drawing up a design? Where do I even begin? How do I make sure everything is in proportion etc? I've had a read through some of the building threads, there is a lot on making a template, or building from plans, but nothing that explains how to read the plans or how to draw your own plans, unless I'm just being blind? Any help would be greatly appreciated with all of this. I know I've been pretty vague but I've given you all that I know so far. Thanks guys! Edited January 11, 2011 by Qualia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 So are you looking at building a superstrat style body (like black machines usually does)? If so,I recommend sapele or walnut from the ones you have listed,because they are good woods with proven characteristics and it is almost impossible to make a super strat neck heavy because of the top horn. If you are going thinner than 1",or if you are wanting an explorer or V or thin LP,I suggest bubinga...great tone and it is damn near bulletproof once completed,no matter what type of finish you use...it is not prone to cracking like some woods are..but the real reason is that bubinga is very heavy,so you can make it incredibly thing and still not have balance issues,because of the mass. And all of the three woods I mention will get you the tone you are describing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 but nothing that explains how to read the plans or how to draw your own plans, unless I'm just being blind? Oh..I draw a centerline down a piece of posterboard and draw the main parts out full scale(fretboard,pickups,bridge)and then I draw the design around that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qualia Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) So are you looking at building a superstrat style body (like black machines usually does)? If so,I recommend sapele or walnut from the ones you have listed,because they are good woods with proven characteristics and it is almost impossible to make a super strat neck heavy because of the top horn. If you are going thinner than 1",or if you are wanting an explorer or V or thin LP,I suggest bubinga...great tone and it is damn near bulletproof once completed,no matter what type of finish you use...it is not prone to cracking like some woods are..but the real reason is that bubinga is very heavy,so you can make it incredibly thing and still not have balance issues,because of the mass. And all of the three woods I mention will get you the tone you are describing... Yes super-strat style would be correct, can't believe I even forgot to list that. That's good to know about the inability to make it an unbalanced guitar. So maybe a Walnut or Sapele body? I quite like the look of Sapele, although I am interested in maybe an olive ash top on it. Could compliment the look of the darker wood nicely? I'm not looking to go thinner than 1", most likely no more than 40mm. Just out of curiosity, which of the woods on there would be closest to the characteristics of Swamp Ash? So which wood would be best for the neck? Keep it the same? And thanks for tip for drawing it out, will give it ago. I may also try drawing out on the PC and getting my friend to print me some templates to scale. Edited January 12, 2011 by Qualia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 So which wood would be best for the neck? Keep it the same? Out of the woods listed,I think I would go with sapele for the neck if it were me...A walnut body with a sapele neck could look really nice You sure you want a top?Tops really involve alot of clamps and a good flat gluing surface...makes a first build tougher. If that is what you really want then go for it..but tops can be over rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Just out of curiosity, which of the woods on there would be closest to the characteristics of Swamp Ash? umm..Ash would...."swamp" ash is just a light piece of ash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qualia Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) Just out of curiosity, which of the woods on there would be closest to the characteristics of Swamp Ash? umm..Ash would...."swamp" ash is just a light piece of ash I've just realised how stupid that question was, sorry about that, was quite late. So there is no difference in normal Ash and Swamp Ash? I thought Swamp was softer? Ash was my initial thought for the guitar build as that is what Black Machine seems to use on all of his. I think I might actually go with Ash/Olive Ash body, still not sure about the neck though, sapele does sound like a good choice. What am I going to need to do truss wise? As the neck is going to be fairly thin, I'll want it to be super strong? I really appreciate all your help so far. Edited January 12, 2011 by Qualia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qualia Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 OK I've been working on drawing it up for most of the day in GIMP, I've got mainly the fingerboard done so far, using the specs of the Ibanez RG2228. I'm currently trying to figure out the string spacing for the ABM Single Bridges (3210), it says they are 10mm string spacing, so is it literally as simple as that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 As far as truss rods go,I have always used the hot rod from stewmac,but I want my next guitars to have more wood behind the truss without making the neck thinner,so I ordered the allparts double action truss rods.They just came in today and I was looking them over.They seem to be good quality,and they are much,much thinner than the hotrod...the specs say they are only 1/16" thinner,but in reality when you put the two side by side the allparts rod seems much smaller..so I think I have a new truss rod for all of my upcoming builds.Plus the oddball rout stewmac's rods require is a pain in the ass. Someone else can do the string spacing thing...I just go with the smallest spacing the bridge will let me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qualia Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 As far as truss rods go,I have always used the hot rod from stewmac,but I want my next guitars to have more wood behind the truss without making the neck thinner,so I ordered the allparts double action truss rods.They just came in today and I was looking them over.They seem to be good quality,and they are much,much thinner than the hotrod...the specs say they are only 1/16" thinner,but in reality when you put the two side by side the allparts rod seems much smaller..so I think I have a new truss rod for all of my upcoming builds.Plus the oddball rout stewmac's rods require is a pain in the ass. Someone else can do the string spacing thing...I just go with the smallest spacing the bridge will let me. Sounds good to me, I'll have to check it out (double action). I've given the drawing a rest for today, stuck on headstock and then string spacing at the nut. I've also figured out what gauge strings to use and the tension they will create etc. Just building up as much info as possible, even if I won't necessarily need all of it. Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qualia Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) This is where I am so far with the plan. Everything is to the mm, in some instance to .00mm (including the string gauges) Take a look. Not entirely happy with the horns yet, need to re-work them. I like the headstock, but it seems that I can't fit all 8 machine heads without making the headstock longer which is surely just going to make it top heavy? So I guess I'm going to need to re-design the headstock and end up with 4 per side. I've made it so everything is in different layers in GIMP so I can print them separately for when I make the MDF templates. The Bridge looks pretty stupid, but it's the dimensions of 8 x ABM 3210's. As for the 808 I am aware that I've missed off the little flaps on the sides. In regards to the machine heads, any idea where I can find the dimensions of the hole needed for the Sperzel locking machine heads as well as ideal spacing between them? I looked on their site but couldn't find what i was after. This isn't finished yet, but if there's anything you think is worth taking into account/changing, please share. Edited January 14, 2011 by Qualia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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