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Custom Hss Wiring Need Help


ebuck
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Alright guys I truly need some help from some experts. I'm drawing of plan for my HSS guitar I'm building. I'm using all Dimarzios.

I want the normal strat volume knob to function as a MASTER VOL

the next knob to be a NECK/MIDDLE VOLUME

the last knob should be a MASTER TONE

I have worked on a diagram all day. To be honest I'm still baffled if this even makes a damn bit of sense. I'm also going to do a momentary killswitch.. but lets just start with this.

Also will there be any phase issues?

wiringhss.jpg

PLEASE help. Thanks guys

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Phase issues will depend on the particular pups being used, you should fine sticking with one manufacturer.

I assume you are using SD colour coding? red and white should be soldered and heatshrinked, black is signal (to switch)

As the middle lug of your N/M vol is connected to your main signal (via left lug of master vol.) at all times it'll function as an unusual master vol, not what you intended....

I don't think a stock strat switch can do what you want, you could do: master vol, master tone, N OR M vol, and you would have an extra pole to auto split the HB in pos 4 to give a more trad. strat sound.

Or a switch with another pole could do it.

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he, so it can be done with a stock 5 way :D:

if we number the top row of your switches lugs (all L to R) 1-2-3-4 and the bottom row 5-6-7-8

those lugs correspond to 7-6-5-8-1-4-3-2 on the ibanez switch.

Adjust your wiring to suit and you'll be in business :D

Hmmm. Yes this helps a bit.

Go back and look at the AT300 ibanez diagram for me. I don't understand why a volume knob for the two single coils is wired that way. The hot going in the middle. Then the humbucker hot going to the master vol, neck/mid vol and the master tone. I was told that all volume pots (knob facing down, lugs at 12 o clock) the left was essentially "input" the middle output and the right lug grounded.

help? lol. I am a confusing man, I know.

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Unfortunately that means nothing to me because I know virtually nothing about electronics or understanding schematics.

In referring to the diagram the master volume has an "output" on the middle lug while the other volume has it on rightmost lug.

I really appreciate the help, but you might have to dumb it down a little. :D

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http://tinyurl.com/6cxot8h

:D

But really, you just need to copy how the ibanez is wired, they've mixed modern and 50's out of necessity, it's so the circuit will function a certain way - the way you want it to.

If you want similar function using only one style of wiring (either 50's or modern) you either need a switch with more poles or settle for two master volumes in the Mid/bridge pos.

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Perfect :D

If your killswitch is NO (normally open, push to connect contacts) connect one lug to the left lug of either vol pot or lug 8 of the 5 way (whichever is more convenient, they are electrically identical)

Or If your killswitch is NC (normally closed, push to disconnect contacts) disconnect the wire from middle lug of master vol, connect it to a killswitch lug, connect other killswitch lug to the middle lug of master vol.

A NO switch is preferable, it will earth the signal and be as silent as turning the vol. to zero, the NC switch will be as noisy as an unplugged lead, which can be alright for a momentary killswitch but not for total silence, say, between sets :D

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Perfect :D

If your killswitch is NO (normally open, push to connect contacts) connect one lug to the left lug of either vol pot or lug 8 of the 5 way (whichever is more convenient, they are electrically identical)

Or If your killswitch is NC (normally closed, push to disconnect contacts) disconnect the wire from middle lug of master vol, connect it to a killswitch lug, connect other killswitch lug to the middle lug of master vol.

A NO switch is preferable, it will earth the signal and be as silent as turning the vol. to zero, the NC switch will be as noisy as an unplugged lead, which can be alright for a momentary killswitch but not for total silence, say, between sets :D

You're the man. I believe the one I was eying was NO button style. I'll update the diagram and keep you posted. THANKS A MILLION.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm getting major ground issues. It hums almost like its unplugged. I checked the output and its wired correctly. I have all grounds going to the back of my volume pot. HOWEVER, the left most lug I have going to my output ground, and the middle lug goes to the hot output. Does that left most lug also need to connect to the back of the pot? or not? I can't figure out what else it is. I've been playing with this forever

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Thanks for a reply.

It appears everything else functions. I am using this metal braided wire for the hot output jack. That must be the issue. I was using a separate wire for the ground.

When I touch the metal jacket of the hot wire while its hooked up, it buzzes louder, when I press it to a grounded pot, it diminishes a bit.

What are the rules or advice for doing output on this guitar? I just ordered some new guitar wire that I think will better suit it. This metal braid stuff seems to be more for an old Les Paul style.

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The metal braid is there similar to the principle that twisted wires provide mutual shielding (hence, why most network wire is 'TWP' - twisted pair). But it's not always the greatest for sound applications. You can test this easily by using two sep. wires for your jack. Twist them together - like a twist tie - as much as possible (cheap shielding of jack wires complete), and connect as usual. You said the pickguard and cavity are fully shielded - with? Is there metallic contact between the shielding used on the pg and the cavity? Is it possible that your solder joints on your switch (or elsewhere) are touching the shielding? Sorry to bombard with questions, but more suggestions on things to check. Also, if you were to truly eliminate ground loops, none of your electronic components would be used as the ground. This is where star grounding comes in, but is a whole different topic :D

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The metal braid is there similar to the principle that twisted wires provide mutual shielding (hence, why most network wire is 'TWP' - twisted pair). But it's not always the greatest for sound applications. You can test this easily by using two sep. wires for your jack. Twist them together - like a twist tie - as much as possible (cheap shielding of jack wires complete), and connect as usual. You said the pickguard and cavity are fully shielded - with? Is there metallic contact between the shielding used on the pg and the cavity? Is it possible that your solder joints on your switch (or elsewhere) are touching the shielding? Sorry to bombard with questions, but more suggestions on things to check. Also, if you were to truly eliminate ground loops, none of your electronic components would be used as the ground. This is where star grounding comes in, but is a whole different topic :D

Hey man thanks for the help :D

Both the pickguard and cavity have copper tape. When I was testing it I didn't even screw it in yet. If it doesn't work open, it really wont work screwed in. I also tested the continuity of my shielding with a Multimeter. What about this star method?

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The star grounding method relies on using two contact points as ground. For example, you would run a wire from the trem claw (assuming strat style setup) to a common screw in the body cavity. The body cavity screw is intentionally screwed through the foil into the body and typically has a standard crimp and solder ring connector on it. ALL ground wires go directly to this ground connection - since some people try to mount it centrally, with all the wires soldered to it it can take on a 'star' appearance. The principle on this (along with the shielding) is that all grounding is done to the body and eliminates all ground loops. You may want to take a look at this article, which explains everything in great detail.

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The star grounding method relies on using two contact points as ground. For example, you would run a wire from the trem claw (assuming strat style setup) to a common screw in the body cavity. The body cavity screw is intentionally screwed through the foil into the body and typically has a standard crimp and solder ring connector on it. ALL ground wires go directly to this ground connection - since some people try to mount it centrally, with all the wires soldered to it it can take on a 'star' appearance. The principle on this (along with the shielding) is that all grounding is done to the body and eliminates all ground loops. You may want to take a look at this article, which explains everything in great detail.

Cool. I actually read many articles on that site right before I posed. I'll wait for this new wire to come in, then I'll see where that gets me.

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Thanks for a reply.

It appears everything else functions. I am using this metal braided wire for the hot output jack. That must be the issue. I was using a separate wire for the ground.

When I touch the metal jacket of the hot wire while its hooked up, it buzzes louder, when I press it to a grounded pot, it diminishes a bit.

What are the rules or advice for doing output on this guitar? I just ordered some new guitar wire that I think will better suit it. This metal braid stuff seems to be more for an old Les Paul style.

All signals should be in sheilded cable, then the need for additional sheilding (copper tape ect) is reduced/eliminated.

Any unearthed sheilding will increase noise.

get rid of the single ground wire, connect the sheilded cable to the jack sleeve and the back of a pot.

Earth loops/star grounding aren't always a big concern, all fenders have earth loops-the pots are earthed via the foil sheild AND by wires soldered to thier backs..relying on just the sheild would've been cheaper and (probably inperceivably) quieter, yet leo scrounge fender sprung for both for reliabilities sake :D or something like that :D

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Great! Thanks for the input. I wasn't digging the metal braid shield so I bought wire that contained a hot and the metal shield ground in one. All of wires are then covered in a plastic sheath.

.. Thats probably confusing. Here is what is coming (hopefully) by the end of this week.

DSC08961-1.JPG

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