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My question is how does the CA feel to the skin?CA sealer coats always felt "grabby" to me..like they would rash up your forearm while playing.

This feels pretty much like nitro to me...which can be grabby if it's polished and it nearly always is. I'd probably put a coat of car wax on it for various reasons, one of which would be to slick it up.

SR

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Thats just screaming ukelele (or however you spell it :D ) to me. make up a little 4 string neck & a tiny pickup for it. That will be cool :D

Now that is an interesting idea.

If you make a demon uke (because of the horns) out of it I will build a 4 pole Humbucker or a P90 for it...

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Now that is an interesting idea.

If you make a demon uke (because of the horns) out of it I will build a 4 pole Humbucker or a P90 for it...

It simply has to be done !! It would be cooler than a 50 foot jesus Christ with 6 arms channeling Stevie Ray Vaughan, Joe Satriani & Billy Gibbons. playing the complete works of Led Zepplin, thu 12000 marshall stacks on the roof of the space shuttle, sling shottin round the sun to go back in time & save Jimmy hendrix, John F Kennedy & the Dinosaurs. So they could all play a benefit gig for world peace with Gary Moore, where we get to eat 22 ounce steaks all day long, served by playmates :D:DB)B)

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Holy crap Paulie, you sure paint some vivid mental pictures! The first time he did that. You need to get those on canvas sometime.

As far as a demon uke...yeah it almost does have to be done. But I may need some input on the construction. I figure the scale would be a little over 8 inches. I'd need something to make tiny frets out of and tiny tuning machines. I guess the little pup could be wired directly to a mini jack. That would be a tiny pup RAD.

I wonder if there is such a thing as a pattern following bit for a dremel.....

SR

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Holy crap Paulie, you sure paint some vivid mental pictures! The first time he did that. You need to get those on canvas sometime.

As far as a demon uke...yeah it almost does have to be done. But I may need some input on the construction. I figure the scale would be a little over 8 inches. I'd need something to make tiny frets out of and tiny tuning machines. I guess the little pup could be wired directly to a mini jack. That would be a tiny pup RAD.

I wonder if there is such a thing as a pattern following bit for a dremel.....

SR

Oh yeah bar frets made out of paper clips and the tuners could be #2-56 allen heads with holes in them and inserts.

And I would make a blade then.... cause blades rock. With a little wee mini pot and a mini input.

Tuning stability might be an issue. ;]

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Surely there are some small worm geared posts out there in the modeling world somewhere that could be modified into tuning machines.

On the other hand I'm thinking a full sized strap would be a must so you cold wear it slung low on stage and look cool. Probably have to break out a Chuck Berry/George Thorogood duck walk right across the stage.

SR

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Cool idea, what a bout friction pegs? You could find some cheep violin ones and cut them down.

That's a thought The friction peg set up from old classicals might not be too bad to reproduce to scale either. But they have to support steel strings.

SR

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BTW Barbeque, blues and beer should be starting again soon.

I should hope so, it's the second week of May for cryin' out loud. You must be going through withdrawal by now. It's a sympton of living too far north. :D

It never really stops down here....at least in my backyard. Just have to take the random week off to let a cold front clear out.

SR

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So after I polished up that little guitar shaped piece of myrtle burl, I was sitting in my chair....you know the chair, the lazyboy recliner that putts you to sleep as soon as you lean back? Well that's the one I was sitting in...and I have this light right next to it and I was admiring the chatoyance in the wood and noticed that under that light I could see all kinds of scratches that I couldn't see when I was polishing it in my garage--facing the sun. Well hell. So I went through the grits again and made it shine even more.

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You may notice my guitar in that picture. this weekend I wired up all the controls except the pickups...and put them back in the box. Then I shaped the nut and slotted it....at least to the initial stages. It'll get completed during the set-up. The guitar's been curing for almost three weeks...and my brisket's smoking, and my blues are playing, and my beer is cold and dammit I gotta do something to that guitar. So I began the initial leveling. I'm going very light and just knocking the tops off of the orange peel and any runs. I figure less lacquer will finish curing all that much faster, right?

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I'm not trying to get completely level with this grit. My plan is to get to the bottom of the pits with a pretty fine grit, which should have me in pretty good shape in terms of having all the deeper scratches polished out.

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I keep smelling it to see if I can smell any solvent. I smell plastic but not solvent.

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I plan to go ahead and let it cure the rest of this week and continue this weekend.

If I can stand it.

SR

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If I can stand it.

SR

Haha i know that feeling all to well!...hurry up and finish it allready, 3 weeks is enough! My semi Tele has been hanging in the shed waiting for buffing for a while now, been way too busy to even look at it. The motivation is almost non existent cause i can't spend money on parts until november when we get back from Europe! :D

That little guitar is shining like glass Scott...looks sick!

Chad.

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If I can stand it.

SR

Haha i know that feeling all to well!...hurry up and finish it allready, 3 weeks is enough! My semi Tele has been hanging in the shed waiting for buffing for a while now, been way too busy to even look at it. The motivation is almost non existent cause i can't spend money on parts until november when we get back from Europe! :D

That little guitar is shining like glass Scott...looks sick!

Chad.

Hey Chad.

I remember reading in your thread that we wouldn't see those teles again till they were done. The other day I was peeking at who was looking at what and noticed you were in your teles thread. I thought woohoo! here we go.

Not yet though, huh? Well that trip to Europe will surely help keep your mind off of them. It must be getting close. Waiting for that must be hard to stand too.

Have fun--take pics.

Scott

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Hey Scott,

Love the build. That top is gorgeous!

I had a quick suggestion for applying CA. When I used to build RC planes I would saturate different parts of the wing with CA and I would wrap a cheap plastic sandwich bag (not a ziplock...the really cheap ones that fold over and tuck in) around my finger and use that to spread the glue. The CA doesn't stick to the plastic that those bags are made out of. You could put your cloth pad in one of those bags and try that to spread the CA. It might work better.

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Hey Scott,

Love the build. That top is gorgeous!

I had a quick suggestion for applying CA. When I used to build RC planes I would saturate different parts of the wing with CA and I would wrap a cheap plastic sandwich bag (not a ziplock...the really cheap ones that fold over and tuck in) around my finger and use that to spread the glue. The CA doesn't stick to the plastic that those bags are made out of. You could put your cloth pad in one of those bags and try that to spread the CA. It might work better.

That's a thought worth trying, I wonder if saran wrap would work the same way. The thing about the cloth pad is it soaks up excess and you don't chase runs like you do with cards. And the ridges are not as high. Leveling out those CA ridges was not all that different than leveling the lacquer orange peel I'm leveling now. There is no doubt the stuff polishes like glass. And I repaired a couple of dimples pretty much the same way as you would with nitro...with the same results and no witness lines. At this stage it feels harder than nitro, but my nitro will get harder as time goes by. So....it makes a great looking coating, but the application methods available pretty much suck especially when compared to spraying. On the other hand drying and cureing is about as fast as it gets.

SR

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Drak says he only does two grades of micromesh a day at the most (I think I remembered that correctly) when leveling and polishing his finish. I did not have that intention....but that's pretty much how much I could get done. These shots are polished up to the 3600 mesh--front and back anyway. The neck and sides are at 3200. I must say this is the highest gloss level I've ever had at 3600. I suppose that means I'm finally doing it right. :D It probably doesn't hurt that my wiping cloth is cut from the back of a 25 year old denim work shirt and has been sprinkled with aluminum oxide powder (used to load strops for knife and tool sharpening). Only 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 to go.

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It's kind of looking like another brown guitar huh?

I think it is safe to say that by this time next week--Memorial Day at the latest, this baby will be playin'.

SR

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Thanks Paulie, I can't wait to get it finished up either.

In fact as I'm impatiently waiting for the weekend to arrive so I can finish the polishing and get this set up a question about nut slot depth/height comes to mind. The common wisdom as stated by Melvyn says when pressing a string at the third fret, it should barely clear the second fret if the slot depth is correct. And then we have zero frets, which I understand are the same height as all the other frets. If a zero fret works equally well (or better depending on your point of view)as a nut for setting string height at the headstock end of the neck, then logically the nut slot depth could be anywhere between the string clearance height as stated by Melvyn, down to flush with the frets. :D

Surely, this affects the height of the saddles at the bridge. I would think the saddles would need to be slightly higher with a zero fret set up or at least require a bit more neck relief to avoid buzz. And the strings would be closer to parallel to the fretboard using a nut over a zero fret? What am I missing here? I have no experience with zero frets.

SR

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Thanks Paulie, I can't wait to get it finished up either.

In fact as I'm impatiently waiting for the weekend to arrive so I can finish the polishing and get this set up a question about nut slot depth/height comes to mind. The common wisdom as stated by Melvyn says when pressing a string at the third fret, it should barely clear the second fret if the slot depth is correct.

Almost described it right... you push the string against the second fret from the third position (first marker) and you should just see daylight under the string and the FIRST fret. I know what you meant though and I am slitting hairs.

I have been using Melvyn's method since I was 18 and it never fails as long as the neck is straight when you do it.

And then we have zero frets, which I understand are the same height as all the other frets. If a zero fret works equally well (or better depending on your point of view)as a nut for setting string height at the headstock end of the neck, then logically the nut slot depth could be anywhere between the string clearance height as stated by Melvyn, down to flush with the frets. :D

Surely, this affects the height of the saddles at the bridge. I would think the saddles would need to be slightly higher with a zero fret set up or at least require a bit more neck relief to avoid buzz. And the strings would be closer to parallel to the fretboard using a nut over a zero fret? What am I missing here? I have no experience with zero frets.

SR

In theory the nut slots can be cut to the depth of the fret height. It is really hard to get it exact though. Leaving a bit of daylight under the string gives you a measurable stopping point for his method. When using Melvyn's method if you take the nut slots all the way down until the string touches the first fret you always end up with an extra stroke of the file that takes it too low. Once the string is even a hair too low there is no way to tell if it is perfect or too low with that method. Of course then it will buzz and you have to fill the slots... You can always use Erlewines method of stacking feeler gauges to get the exact height of the frets... too much work in my opinion.

Zero frets are simple. No different than fretting the strings at the 1st fret. No extra compensation needed. They look stupid but they work.

I am fighting this exact scenario on a PRS right now (man I hate repair work). The nut was cut with tons of relief in the neck so the slots are low. If I straighten the neck the open strings buzz. SO you raise the action making it unplayable... SO you call the guy and convince him you have to make a new nut which is what I am doing.

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