jeremyp Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I have myself an 18'' 4mm allen nut HOTROD truss rod from stew mac and am not sure how to install it. now clearly i know it's gotta have a channel for it to sit in but after that i'm not sure. do i need to secure it in place(glue?)? I have a limited amount of tools but i do have a a router and a couple bits so what is the best way to make this slot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 the best way to make it is straight as an arrow, not too wide or too narrow and at precisely the right depth. Add a dab of silicone at each end and one in the middle. Think pinky-fingernail sized drop. You don't want squeeze out with the silicone, just some cushioning against rattle. and not too close to the truss rod access point either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micter Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 You need a 7/32" channel. Either get a 7/32" bit or do multiple passes with a smaller bit. I think it needs to be 7/16" deep. A router table comes in handy or you can use an edge guide. as mentioned a dab of silicone at the ends to secure it then a strip of tape to keep glue out of the channel when attaching the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helldunkel Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 1) Never spread silicone or glue on the lenght of the rod you are going to totally mess up the way it works and make it become mighty stiff (dont forget that the passive rod on the bottom IS functional since its there to counter backbow so if you add silicone there you will mess it all up) 2) These rods do not rattle they are also designed to be removed (try removing them when you spread silicone everywhere.... 3) A dip of silicone at the very end of the rod (not the adjustement end) 4) Place some tape above the rod to prevent the glue from entering the channel, spread the glue, then remove the tape! (otherwise you will get a high spot) but if you enjoy sanding down high spots then I wont argue, simply leave the tape... 5) stewmac also sells the perfect bit for the job Router Bit For Hot Rod Truss Rods 6) route several passes until you reach precisely the right depth... These are the rods I've been extensively using for the past 15 years, I also like the LMI rods, they are thinner but you must custom order if you wish a spoke nut (which is the adjustement system I'm using) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helldunkel Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 You can also find this tutorial directly at stewmac Hot Rod Adjustable Truss Rods Our Hot Rod® truss rod is an anchorless neck adjusting system that can correct a neck having either upbow or backbow. It does so uniformly throughout the length of the rod. Installation is simple, and compared to other truss rods, relatively fewer turns of the adjusting nut are required for neck correction. Follow these steps to install the rod: 1. Saw or rout a slot down the centerline of the neck, 7/32" (0.218") wide and 7/16" (0.437") deep. Provide an access for the adjusting nut: For the Fender style nut, you’ll need a 3/8"-diameter recess, about an inch deep on line with the active rod, to accommodate the adjusting nut; for the 4mm allen nut, use a 1/4" recess, about 1/2" deep; for the 1/4" hex nut, use a 7/16" recess, about 1/2" deep. The recess can be made with a piloted drill bit, or by clamping a hardwood filler strip into the slot, and drilling as though there is no slot. The acoustic guitar version can be installed for adjustment at the peghead or the neck heel. For heel-adjustable installation, the neck block must be notched or drilled to access the adjustment nut. The truss rod is not designed to extend into the neck block or beyond the neck. This allows neck removal as per a normal dovetail neck reset. To install the “spoke nut” truss rod, counterbore a -3/8"-diameter hole 3/4" deep to accept the shank of the adjustment nut. Allow at least 1/16" clearance between both flat sides of the spoke nut and the guitar’s neck heel and neck/body cutout. This will prevent the nut from binding on these surfaces as it is adjusted. A 1/4" x 5/8" access rout in the instrument’s pickguard/top and the neck/body cutout is required. 2. Set the truss rod into the slot. Although the rods are cushioned with PVC tubing, we recommend extra cushioning at the nuts to eliminate the possibility of rod rattle. Apply a small amount of silicone bathtub sealer in the slot at the double nuts, then press the rod as deeply into the slot as possible. Use only enough silicone for minimal squeeze-out. A spot or two along the double rods can also be cushioned by a little sealer. 3. The absence of glue in the neck slot will ensure that the truss rod can be removed without “hanging up.” Therefore, it’s essential to avoid excess glue while installing the fingerboard. We suggest placing 3/4"-wide masking tape down the centerline of the neck, over the installed truss rod. Spread the glue over the neck with a notched glue spreader. Remove the tape and clamp the fingerboard in place. You’ll notice a small area on each side of the truss rod that has no glue, but if done properly, the glue will spread just to the edges of the slot and not beyond. Adjustment After the glue has dried thoroughly, the rod can be tested and used with care. Turn the nut clockwise to correct an upbow, and counterclockwise to correct backbow. As with any truss rod, if you encounter excessive resistance, the neck should first be eased into a corrective bend with clamps. The rod can then be adjusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 You can also find this tutorial directly at stewmac .......... 2. Set the truss rod into the slot. Although the rods are cushioned with PVC tubing, we recommend extra cushioning at the nuts to eliminate the possibility of rod rattle. Apply a small amount of silicone bathtub sealer in the slot at the double nuts, then press the rod as deeply into the slot as possible. Use only enough silicone for minimal squeeze-out. A spot or two along the double rods can also be cushioned by a little sealer. ......... Thats what I said up ^^there^^...... and for the record, I hate hotrod bits from stewmac. Here's why....... http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=44646 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helldunkel Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 and for the record, I hate hotrod bits from stewmac. Here's why....... http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=44646 Again its all about money... Those bits are probably casted and not machined to high standards... However I've never had that happen to me and believe me I use those bits like crazy every day. Over here if you want to buy a very high quality bit you are going to at least pay 150$ for one of them.... 20$ for a router bit is a joke, a very cheap price, that should already be a good hint... Always ask yourself the basic questions, which material are they made out from because steel is made from various quality grades which are all used in the manufacturing of routing bits. Just compare to a router bit from freud you will see what I'm talking about (and their prices are also pretty cheap): Freud State-of-the-Art Router Bit Technology Router Bit Material There are 3 different materials from which Router Bits are made: High Speed Steel, Carbide Tipped, and Solid Carbide. Choosing a carbide Router Bit over a high steel router bit is usually your best bet to get the most for your money. Carbide bits are less likely to crack than those that do not utilize carbide, and they are less likely to wear down and need to be replaced. The leading manufacturers of bits make use of carbide in the production of their products specifically because their customers demand a high-quality bit. While some bits do not use carbide or include carbide caps, the more expensive, high-end examples of this product nearly always do. One example is the industry leader in router bits, Amana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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