Machining floyd nut slot

[soapbarstrat]

I mentioned in another posts that I'm afraid to use a Dremel to rout the ledge where the locking nut sits on, but I'm not happy with using a small sanding block either. So, now I'm considering the Dremel method again, and would like to find out how others are doing this.

any good web-pages on this ?

I know about the jig Stewmac used to sell for doing this, but I'm looking for more detail than " yeah there's some jig they use"

I'm interested in things like using a dial indicator mounted to the dremel to get precise depth cuts, etc.

Stuff that'll real give me a nice fat headache.

Thanks,

Rob

[MartinP]

I'm useing my small Proxxon mill for this - that's probably not what you wanted to hear, though. I suppose you have already made the following, but just in case not - measure very precisely your fingerboard's thickness and also how high the strings will be in locking nut when tightened - you know the string grooves are v-shaped so that the thicker strings will actually be a bit higher than groove's bottom. Then do some calculations... It may well be that you just have to cut off a piece from the fingerboard and screw the nut directly to the neck(wood) itself. Worked for me once. And, there shouldn't be anything wrong to put some shims beneath the nut if it has to be raised.

Rgds

[krazyderek]

i tape down my fingerboard on a flat surface, put 2 rails beside id (either metal or planed wood) then use a big base one my dremel or i'm just really carefull with my router, to get the bit depth i put a straight edge across the 2 rails and measure down, but always do it in a couple of passes 1 to get rid some of the jun, 2nd to get pretty much on the line, and 3rd measure exactly how much more you need to take off(usualy a 32nd or 64th), and be very carefully or you can even finish it off with a chisel and sandpaper

[daveq]

I do it a similar way. I built a jig that has two side rails that my router sits on. I use a piece of metal to line the fretboard up with the edge of my jig (where the pattern bit rides along). I always use the same depth (I can't remember but I think it's just under 1/16"?) and haven't had any problems. I usually have to clean a little bit with a razor / chisel along the nut slot's bottom edge.

I'm surprised that stewmac doesn't sell a jig for this. Were you saying that you heard that they used to sell one and now don't?

[soapbarstrat]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to figure out a way to rig a dial indicator to the dremel router, so if i need it to cut .001" deeper, I can set it to that depth. Also, the locking nut needs to sit lower on the high E side, so whatever jig the router is riding on, has to be able to be adjusted for that. I want to be able to rout the ledge that the locking nut sits on, so that I end up with an exact string height over the first fret of .009" for high E, .015" for low E.

So far, I have the idea in my head, of the neck mounting in my neck-jig, held in the playing position. Then a jig suspended over the lock-nut area, held there with threaded rods coming up from the table top. That way the jig can be made to slant lower on the treble side.

That's the idea so far.

Yes, StewMac sold a locking nut router jig for quite a while, I guess. I'm looking at it right now in their autumn 1996 catalog. It was part # 1356 and cost $61.55 (what a freakin' odd price). 'Guitar Player Repair Guide' mentions it and says it came with very detailed instructions. My guess is that there must have been a flaw, which made them stop making it, or it was too much trouble to make, or anyone who wanted one, had already bought one, and they just couldn't sell anymore.

I have all the StewMac catalogs going back to 1987. There's been a few tools that are no longer available, but you'd think they should still be.

Like the 'lock nut monster' : a clever little device that pulls the locking nut up while the guitar is strung up, so you can fine-tune what size shims to put under the lock-nut. Or maybe they still sell it. I'm too lazy to check on that.

Rob