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Need Quick Drying Rock Hard Spray Paint


sbskates

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I mostly use oil and lacquers. I am building a bass that I am not real concerned about muffling the tone. What's the best route ? poly? I just want thick rock hard coating like you get on a painted import guitar, will epoxy paint be good?

Needs to be rattle cans .

Thanks!

Edited by sbskates
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There was a thread recently about rattle can 2k clear, but it's like $45/can. I think the thread is in the finishing tutorial section.

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I've used DEFT a few times and find it to be one of the harder lacquers making it more prone to chipping. In fact both guitars I have still with DEFT on it both have chips from only very minor bumps. For DEFT my experience is that I can still press in a fingernail at 3 weeks of curing, meaning it is still too soft. But that could just be my enviromental conditions.

Check with your local auto body paint suppliers and see if any of them do a two part paint in a can. I've heard of it being done, but never looked into it. I know Alsa Corp. offers it, but as mentioned above it is expensive.

If you don't mind some work wetsanding you could go with a 2-part finish and use the Preval sprayers. A little cheaper, but the atomizing is fairly poor on thicker finishes so they orange peal pretty badly.

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I've used DEFT a few times and find it to be one of the harder lacquers making it more prone to chipping. In fact both guitars I have still with DEFT on it both have chips from only very minor bumps. For DEFT my experience is that I can still press in a fingernail at 3 weeks of curing, meaning it is still too soft. But that could just be my enviromental conditions.

Check with your local auto body paint suppliers and see if any of them do a two part paint in a can. I've heard of it being done, but never looked into it. I know Alsa Corp. offers it, but as mentioned above it is expensive.

If you don't mind some work wetsanding you could go with a 2-part finish and use the Preval sprayers. A little cheaper, but the atomizing is fairly poor on thicker finishes so they orange peal pretty badly.

What i have found with Deft, is that it is much like most spray can lacquers. to get it to cure you have to go really thin on the coats(almost misting) or you need to crack the finish with 800 or 1000 grit as soon as you can handle(usually 24 hours after spraying). If not, the solvent builds with the finish, and never fully gasses off. this is a huge problem with spray can lacquer, especially acrylics.

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I've used DEFT a few times and find it to be one of the harder lacquers making it more prone to chipping. In fact both guitars I have still with DEFT on it both have chips from only very minor bumps. For DEFT my experience is that I can still press in a fingernail at 3 weeks of curing, meaning it is still too soft. But that could just be my enviromental conditions.

Check with your local auto body paint suppliers and see if any of them do a two part paint in a can. I've heard of it being done, but never looked into it. I know Alsa Corp. offers it, but as mentioned above it is expensive.

If you don't mind some work wetsanding you could go with a 2-part finish and use the Preval sprayers. A little cheaper, but the atomizing is fairly poor on thicker finishes so they orange peal pretty badly.

What i have found with Deft, is that it is much like most spray can lacquers. to get it to cure you have to go really thin on the coats(almost misting) or you need to crack the finish with 800 or 1000 grit as soon as you can handle(usually 24 hours after spraying). If not, the solvent builds with the finish, and never fully gasses off. this is a huge problem with spray can lacquer, especially acrylics.

Which, among other issues - can cause pitting in the finish down the road. Pitting is a pisser :D

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I can't comment on pitting, never had a finish do that, of course, with the advent of the waterbornes, this could become a reality, hoping to kill off my last 2 gallons of nitro soon, and say goodbye to solvent base except for restorations.

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