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Posted

Hey folks. I'm looking to refret an old guitar and I'm willing to bet I'll have to deepen the fret slots a bit after sanding down the fretboard. Are there any saws available at Woodcraft/Home Depot etc. that will do the trick without ordering from Stewmac? I know Stewmac sells good stuff but I will probably only use the saw once or twice since I usually buy preslotted boards and I've had good luck that way.

If I'm just deepening the slots a bit, can I use a saw with a thinner kerf and just make a few passes using the wall of the existing slots as a guide?

Thanks for the help!

Posted

Rockler sells a nice Dozuki saw that has a .023" kerf for about $30. The blade is replaceable as well.

Do you have this saw? I ask because I tried to find one at a local Rockler and the salesmen didn't know any of the info on those saws. Also, I didn't have any luck searching their website so if you have a link or a part number that would be very nice.

Thanks,

Jeff

Posted

I'm pretty sure this is the one I have:

http://www.rockler.c...3&filter=dozuki

The specs say it's got a .012" thick blade, but the teeth are set at .023"

If you have a Harbor Freight near by I'm pretty sure they have the Japanese saws as well, take a mic with you to measure it though.

Posted

Hobby shops will usually carry razor saws, and 0.020" is a fairly common size, if I recall correctly.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I also have a Harbor Freight around the corner, was just there and there is a Japanese saw that has a .024 kerf. I think it was around 8.00 it was about a 10 inch long blade. Take a caliper with you to measure. Just because it says .024 doesn't mean it really is. You can reduce the kerf by lightly tapping on the side of the blade teeth.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Woodworkers Source sells very fine cut/crosscut Japanese pull saws with a 0.6mm (0.02358") kerf, and replacable blades for about $25 ($10 for the replacement blades). HF is handy for cheap tools that can't really be ****ed up, but for something requiring precision down to a thousandth of an inch...well IMHO that I'd rather spend an extra $15 than risk the potential of making a LOT more work for myself down the line.

Posted

I also have a Harbor Freight around the corner, was just there and there is a Japanese saw that has a .024 kerf. I think it was around 8.00 it was about a 10 inch long blade. Take a caliper with you to measure. Just because it says .024 doesn't mean it really is. You can reduce the kerf by lightly tapping on the side of the blade teeth.

Just remember that measuring the blade to .024 doesnt mean that is the kerf. The kerf is goign to be bigger than what the blad measures.

Posted

sears sell's japanese "pull saws" with narrow kerfs for 15-20$. blade size is just a touch over sized .028", so a tang expander, or gluing will be necessary if you are using narrow tang fretwire.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

These have a kerf of 0,75mm kerf which is wider than the average fretsaw at ~0,6mm however it is quite close. As Exoticwood says, if you're handy with a file and/or peening hammer (not sure if this is the right name for the one I am thinking of) this can be brought down either side whilst testing the final kerf on some scrap. The blade thickness is 0,5mm so filing the teeth near flush should put you in the ballpark.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-fineline-gents-saw-prod869348/

Although more than three times the price, you have a guarantee that these'll do the job since they don't need modding:

http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/luthier-tools/fretting/fret-slotting-saw.html

http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/luthier-tools/fretting/fret-slotting-saw-and-depth-guide.html

Personally I would go with that which does the job first time with no hassles. Those saws'll last you a good number of years depending on your workload. Run the blade through a tealight candle (remove the foil!) to lube the blade for easier cutting but clean up any excess between the teeth so it doesn't gunk up.

No point in bothering with these tang expanders or glueing frets in oversized slots because those approaches will cost more than the correct saw in the first place. Japanese-style saws are nice however since you are just doing the odd one or two boards then they are probably unnecessary until you know you need one.

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