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Osorio Blue Burst Lespaul


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Like the topic name says an unusual lespaul finish, blue burst.

Body: mahogany

Neck: mahogany

Finger: ebony

Top: maple

Pickups: SD phat cat

Bridge: wilkinson roller TOM

Tremolo: Bigsby

Tuners: schaler

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Nice build ! Great work with the fretboard.

I'really looking forward to the "blue burst" part...

Just one question, maybe it's just the angle of the picture, but isn't the Bigsby too close to the bridge ? How is the string angle going to be from the bridge to the down-hold bar of the Bigsby ?

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Tks Paulie, Res, Scott and Blackdog!

I knew that somebody would talk about the few clamps.

Well, I thinks that using a guide block provides more strength to the fretboard surface. When the first clamp was pressed, at fret one, the glue squeezes for all fretboard sides, including the oposite side at end, proving that the power was distributed for equal in all surface. As the others clamps are pressed the glue squeezes are increased showing that the clamp had action on that section. Sometime I had to pull off a bass fretboard glued this way, and was very dificult cause it was very well glued.

Other thing that I consider, is the fact that the fretboard had the slots, and this fact made that the fretboard by it self looses the own hardness, if you will glue whithout a block guide, use a thosen of clamps is justified, but using a guide, I think (INMHO) that you can use five or six good clamps.

The bigsby is close to the bridge, but nothing to much, the bridge screws in the picture are very very high and the perspective of the picture give a wrong idea.

The black mark is dry glue with dust of a clamp that I put to press the side of a neck pocket.

Tks again folks!!

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About for comment on more clamps... Those people making fine fiddles (or do they call them violins) don't use any. Just a nicely planed surface, some hide glue and call it done :D

Ahh! That is because hide glue pulls the pieces together !! Titebond does not, that's why we need to clamp tighter.

In any case I think most of us have a tendency to overdo the clamping... If the presure can be distributed evenly fewer clamps will do the job just fine.

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A flat joint should hold itself as well. Titebond will secure a slightly imperfect joint, but there will be tension on the wood because of the imperfection. If your joint is perfect, you should be able to lay one face to the other, apply your hyde glue, and then apply only enough pressure to keep the two faces flat together, and you'll have a nice strong joint.

From a violin luthier's perspective :D

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Looking good this far.

I'm curios. In this picture:

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The space between the bridge and the Bigsby is really narrow. On a really classic guitar, Neil Youngs "Old Black":

OldBlack1.jpg

the distance seems to be greater. Is that from the specs of the Bigsby being changed over the years or are there any other reason. Maybe different versions of Bigsbys on your guitar vs Neils?

I am planing an Old Black-tribute (not a clone) so the issue is quite interesting for me.

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Good point on the space behind the bridge. BUT - I think the bridge on Osorio's paul is sitting realy high. Look at the photo again, you can see a good deal of the threaded post under the saddle unit.

I wonder how it would look with the bridge seated down correctly. could just be an optical illusion, camera angle making it appear like there is a problem.

Osorio, screwing the posts in & a different camera angle would help clear this up. the saddle unit is sitting right at the back of the adjustment slot aswell. I rekon it will be fine, just a camera perspective thing - but it never hurts to check.

This thing is gona be cool BTW :D

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Yesterday I put the bridge and the bigsby on his places.

In fact brigsby and bridge are to close each other, could be more 0,5 cm between.

It won´t be a problem if I assembly the bigsby sometinh about 0,3-0,4cm higher using a piece of cork to do this. This will decrease the angle of the string in relation to the bridge.

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