Phil Mailloux Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Hi guys, Newby to this forum, longtime fan of this website (6 months of drooling now). After all this drooling I finally decided to build my first complete guitar (5-string bass), I did build a strat body 7 years ago for a vintage Fender 1974 CBS neck I had bought but that was with lots of help. (In reality my friend had done most of the work). It's been made with hard ash I got at the local wood yard, the stupid thing weights a ton! So finally during X-mas time while I was back home in Canada I bought all the wood and did all the bandsaw cuts I needed. I brought back everything here, in the Netherlands where I live. I'm now at the part where I have to glue my Pao ferro fingerboard to my Mahogany neck. And truth be told I have NO idea what sorts of glue I should use. I heard that most luthiers use "Titebond". Is that true? and if so, is there a difference between titebond 1 and 2? Is there any difference with that and most regular wood glue you find at home depot (or Praxis if you live in the Nethelands)? What about epoxy? While I was in Montreal a luthier recommended me cold-cure epoxy from "Lee Valley", is there a difference with epoxies from this guy and other generic epoxies I could find here in Holland? I can find Titebond here at Vox Humana Guitar center (thanks to whoever posted their link on the guitar project site) but at 16 Euro per bottle it's a lot more than glue you'll find at home depot. And as far as epoxies go, i'd rather buy something here than have something sent through the post from the states or Canada. Man! my book is finally finished. So anyway, anybody can clarify this for me, or just give their opinions on what I should use? Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snork Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 titebond is fine! but lets get a unanimous decision posted. and POST SOME PICS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 i would use titebond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 titebond is the glue of choice for most people as you said, and a safe bet. There was i think 2 long threads about titbond if you do a search. titebond 1 is best suited for guitars. Save the epoxy experiments for a bit down the road when you know what you want from a glue. And yes epoxies can differ quite a bit in strength, texture, final hardness, thickness and colour, so there's quite a broad selection. Anyways the point is, you're glueing wood, so use wood glue Titebone 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Yeah we had a discussion about this a few months ago. Titebond 1 is what you want. I use Gorilla Glue for Oily Woods like Cocobolo and such because titebond sometimes doesn't hold it very well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Mailloux Posted January 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Thanks guys, Man, talk about fast answers. I posted this 10 minutes ago!!! I think I can find Titebond 2 here but i'm not sure about titebond 1 What's the difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snork Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 no idea. but check out gorrilla glue too. i have used my moms occasionally that stuff sticks like a MO FO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 titebond is superior in tight fit applications like a fretboard.gorrilla glue is best if it is not a super tight fit. titebond 2 tends to not dry properly,according to some.....but i have used it with success.i prefer the originall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 I'll see if I can find the thread that I started about the difference between TitebondI and II. I talked with a tech support guy at Franklin (the makers of Titebond) about the issues that some people were seeming to have. Basically, the difference is that II is "water proof" and I is not. II does not dry as hard as I either. A lot of people were claiming that their joints were "creeping" with II and thought that Titebond I was much more resistent to that. Franlkin said that Titebond I was not any better when it come to creeping. They recommended Titebond Extend for cases where creep was an issue. The Titebond Extend is used for laminating stair rails (curved) and projects that require a bit more setup time and of course resistence to joint creeping. I have some here but have not tried it yet. I plan on using it for my nect fretboard since I like to take time lining it up just right. So basically, if you can't find Titebond Extend, get Titebond I. If you can't find that either, get Titebond II - it's not any more likely to creep. I have used II on one guitar and it has had no problems so far. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 In my experience, Titebond 2 doesn't cure completely hard. It stays somewhat rubbery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 In my experience, Titebond 2 doesn't cure completely hard. It stays somewhat rubbery. Right, that's what the guy from Franklin confirmed. Here's the thread that has all of the info on these glues and the email to/from Franklin: Titebond I vs Titebond II Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Another good reason to use titebond: If there is ever a problem with the trussrod, a water based glue will steam off and both the neck and fretboard can be reused. Gorrila glue is polyurethane glue, not water based, and like wes stated, due to its foamy nature, it wont do a tight joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 you can glue glass together with gorilla glue. A tight joing is a product of proper clamping and jointing. Whether or not a particular glue expands has nothing to do with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morben Guitars Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 No one here uses Hide Glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 I've used Titebond and also this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 No one here uses Hide Glue? No. Do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 No one here uses Hide Glue? I've used Titebond hide glue when I was making a violin. It's nasty stuff, REALLY sticky, like epoxy, and it also smells bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morben Guitars Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 Yes, I've used hide glue in the past. The Titebond hideglue isn't really the same as mixing it yourself and heating it up. It's really the only choice I think for hollow bodies/acoustics. Specifically for parts that may be disassembled in the future. Neck joints, bridge, etc. It is an amazingly strong glue (look at antique furniture...probablby hide glue keeping it all together) but with a little heat it disassembles very nicely...perfect for fret boards. I've used it for a few repairs, and have been very happy with it's performance. www.mimf.com has a bunch of great conversations about different glues in their forum. I've learned a lot from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 www.mimf.com has a bunch of great conversations about different glues in their forum. I've learned a lot from them. I've read them also. The section in the FAQ leaves me with the impression that there is no one glue that is best to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 It's really the only choice I think for hollow bodies/acoustics. Never used it at Northwood Guitars. Northwood uses the two glues I mentioned in an earlier post on this thread, Titebond I and Cabinet makers glue. Titebond is used for pretty much everything, except the cabinet makers glue is used on bridges and necks because it is less elasticy than Titebond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grindell Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 I've used fresh hide glue for several fingerboards, and it works great. I use Titebond if the basement is cool and I'm afraid that I can't get the parts all together in time before the hide glue sets. I'm starting to use hide glue on all my glue joints, as I really like the way it works, but each glue has its positives and negatives. Titebond is sure less of a hassle, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grindell Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 I've used fresh hide glue for several fingerboards, and it works great. I use Titebond if the basement is cool and I'm afraid that I can't get the parts all together in time before the hide glue sets. I'm starting to use hide glue on all my glue joints, as I really like the way it works, but each glue has its positives and negatives. Titebond is sure less of a hassle, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morben Guitars Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 agreed. Titebond 1 is the best "all around shop glue" I've found, but hide glue has it's stong points as well (no pun intended..) There really isn't one glue that does it all...I'm surprised how much I end up using CA actually...it often does the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digideus Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 In case anyone in the UK is interested, Titebond is available in the UK from... jet tools & machinery ltd. Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue Axminster Devon, England EX13 5HU Phone: 44 1297 35065 Fax: 44 1297 35242 Email: email@jet.uk.com www.jet.uk.com If you need a local supplier in any other part of the world, contact Franklin via e-mail on international@FranklinInternational.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 you can glue glass together with gorilla glue. A tight joing is a product of proper clamping and jointing. Whether or not a particular glue expands has nothing to do with it right.what i was saying is that gorilla glue itself is stronger than titebond in a loose joint,because of the superior strength of the glue itself,but the bond titebond creates in a tight joint is stronger than the bond gorilla glue creates......in a tight joint like a fretboard i would use titebond,in a loose fit set neck i would use epoxy or gorrilla glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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