Jump to content

Recommended Posts

The Project Guitar.com "Guitar of the Month" contest is a showcase for all the members, so show us your axe in this thread!

This contest is open to any and all members that enter and will be continued each month for a place showing your creation on the homepage!

The winner(s) of course will have his/her guitar featured on the homepage of Project Guitar.com and if you have a website the picture will link directly to it if you so choose (even commercial site's).

If your a forum member you will also be upgraded with a special badge to show you won!

So show us your creation in this thread! You've got till sometime around the 23rd or 24th of October then this thread gets locked and the voting starts!

Any Post that is not an entry will be deleted, feel free to start a new thread to discuss any guitar entered this month

There may be more then one poll to determine winners in different catagorys at the end of this contest!

Please post a maximum of your 4 best pictures per guitar entered

Make sure Your Guitar has a Name or Nick Name as well otherwise one will be given to it :D

Side note, if you are unable to post a picture you can e-mail one to Brian and it will be posted for you, or ask forum members how to post pictures, they are very helpful.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...


This ones not my latset build but it's my personal/player guitar.

I wanted to place an entry and the ones I'm working on at the moment I'll never get finished for this month this one will have to do!

Based on a USA Warlock shape, however I made the body thinner and changed the bevels.

Because the body is much thinner, I had to have the block on the rear of the floyd milled to allow clearance!


Queensland Maple Neckthru

Tasmanian Blackwood Body

Rosewood headstock cap

25" scale

24 frets - dunlop 6150

Gold MOP headstock inlay

Cloud fingerboard inlays

Ivroid headstock binding

Gotoh Floyd trem

Imperial tuner heads

Dimarzio X2N humbucker

Area 61 Single coil

Was built with a "Neal Moser" active circuit (hense all the switches) but I ended out remomiving that and rewiring standard. Switches are dummies to fill holes.

Marblizer paint over a black PPG base with Custom PPG Candy over the top of a Baphomet layout.

Clear coated with PPG Deltron 800





Link to post
Share on other sites


Wenge and Flamed Maple Gibson Style V

Neck through 7 piece Wenge/Maple neck. The body is 1/4" Wenge top and 1/4" Wenge Back, Wenge center w/Maple Accent lines.

Neck : Wenge/Flame Maple

Fretboard : Ebony

Scale : 24.75

Frets : 24

Trussrod : ALLPARTS

Body : Wenge/Maple/Wenge

Tuners : Hipshot Classic

Pickups : Diablo Humbuckers

Bridge : Tone Pros TOM

Electronics : Volume Push/Pull Tapped and 3-way Selector Switch

Build Thread





Link to post
Share on other sites

Build Numero Uno - RG7 Facelift. First attempt at applying my novice instrument-based woodworking skills by replacing the body of my battlescarred, and frankly meh-looking Ibby RG7620-VK with a new carved-top mahogany body, plus taking the opportunity to invest in some new goodies...and have a bit of fun learning about this guitar-building malarkey.

Body: Carved-top mahogany with hand-rubbed oil finish and Jem-style jack socket placement.

Neck: Transplanted original RG7620 neck.

Trem: Transplanted original Lo-pro Edge 7.

Pickups: Bareknuckle Aftermath 7 calibrated set.

Electronics: 1x volume, 3-way Switchcraft toggle.




Link to post
Share on other sites

Gretsch Jupiter/Thunderbird



chechen neck

maple heel plate

cocobolo fretboard

red/black binding on fretboard & headstock

Inlace thumbnail markers


2-piece mahogany body

1/4" maple cap

1 3/4" total thickness

face painted red

black/white/red/white/black binding

water-based polyurethane finish

Electronics & Hardware

All gold hardware with black accents

Gretsch humbuckers

Wilkinson tuners

3-position toggle

barrel jack

Gretsch wiring: neck vol, bridge vol, master vol, master tone

phase reversal p/p pot on neck vol

recessed TOM bridge





Link to post
Share on other sites

"Air-In Fall: Swaying Hearts and Minds With Purple and Orange"

*Sorry about the long name... this guitar has a lot of history and meaning in it that translates into the name.

This is actually my second acoustic, although it was literally started YEARS ago. It's what is called a terz. It's a Martin Size 5 shape with a 12-fret neck, but since the body's so small, so is the neck with (if my mind remembers correctly here) a 21.5" scale. It's called a terz because in order to accomodate this higher scale most people tune it up G-to-g instead of E-to-e ala having a capo on the 3rd fret. It has some great chimey highs. I've found it's the perfect little guitar for playing on the porch at night with some friends over drinks and cigars and what not.

Either way, specs:

Lutz spruce top.

EIRW Fretboard with koa, padauk, and aniegre falling maple leaves inlay. Honduran mahogany slothead neck finished with a very dark brown sunburst, nicely appointed with a traditional diamond carved volute.

African padauk back/sides with Brazilian Kingwood binding. Purflings are self-dyed purple/orange purfling strips.

White buffalo bone nut, saddle, and bridge pins of the EIRW bridge.

MOP side dots and headstock logo. Buckeye burl tailgraft and rosette.

Grover Sta-tite tuners.

What everyone is actually interested in: Note- the second picture is probably the most accurate representation of the orange color of the padauk. I'm not a great photographer and didn't have my usual help this time :S







About the structure:

This guitar was a bit of an experiment surrounding some of the things I had learned from the Ervin Somogyi lectures that were posted on the OLF forum a couple of years ago. With the guitars size and timbre it was slated to undoubtedly be a guitar for use only in intimate settings. Therefore, I wanted to make sure that it was as loud as it could be within close quarters. Therefore, instead of doing a tone-bar brace behind the bridge I opted for two finger braces to increase the cross-dipole movement of the top. According to Somogyi this would increase it's presence in close proximity but at the expense of the sound falling away faster than usual with distance (which I was ok with). I also decided to go with a stiffly x-braced back as I was more interested in the guitar's back reflecting sound to the listener than I was in the top/back coupling action that may have led to better bass (which let's be honest, in a guitar this size, that's not the forte and will never be). All in all I think it did what I wanted it to as it's a very loud and percussive guitar for it's size. I'm calling it a success personally.

You can see what I meant about the bracing here:



PS: For those that are interested in more info on this guitar I'll be building a page for it on my site as usual within the next couple of days.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Whalehazard Thunderback LW

Hey folks, this is my third build, and is for the bass player in my band. LW is because he calls himself the Littlest Wizard.

This is northern ash with a maple neck, with a rosewood fretboard and headplate.

34" scale

Schaller roller bridge

Gotoh tuners

Duncan 1/4 pounder P-bass pickup

1 volume

1 tone

pretty straightforward. The headstock inlay is MOP and recon bloody jasper, and the dots and 12th fret pentagram are red marbled plastic.




There is a truss rod cover made of the same red plastic that I forgot to put on when taking pictures

Here's a close up of the 12th fret inlay before fretting.


Link to post
Share on other sites
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Create New...