StreamLine Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 on my last (or rather, 1st) project guitar, turned a strat into an unconventional installed OFR, by installing OFR but having a graphite nut and lokicng tuners. now, in two months the string has eaten through the high E groove........ it was fine when i had it cut, buzzed a little a month later, i made action a bit higher, it was fine, but now the buzz has caught up with me - evidence its being eaten through continuously. now, the tuning stability is amazing, and i can easily retune with this setup, so the graphite has performed very well........ but since it is buzzing really badly when the high E is picked with strong fforce (esp uding strumming), coz the groove is too lw, i will need a new nut fitted shortly. this has only happened on the E string - why? i abuse the OFR a lot, but moslty on G open harmonics and just very wide vibrato, so i am confused to why its done it, esp as every other groove is fine. graphite appears to be a rather soft material then - then why is it used as guitar nuts? i use 10's in concert pitch, so i dont understand..... but more importantly, now that i'll get a nut replacement, a new graphite nut, with hope it wwont be eaten through nce again? or a bone nut - from a singnificantly stronger material, but will it be as stable and in tune after minutes of trem abuse?? this replacement will cost me $30/£20 because since i do not have jewellers files, (which are ridiculously expensive), i have to get it slotted by techs, whicm means i cant just get away with bying a blank and thats it, and whats annoying they'll charge the same to cut and fit it as they would to just slot it.... so 3 questions, 1)why has this happened? 2) should i get graphite or bone nut replacement? 3)would bone hold out as nicely after trem abuse (i do have schaller locking tuners and a perfectly serviced OFR)...... thanks, Roman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 the e string is only the first to wear out because it is the roughest roundwound string.that has been the first thing that occured to me every time i heard someone suggest that setup. i would replace it with a locking nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 if you use a trem like i do i can't see any kind of nut lasting very long. that is why i will ALWAYS use the locking nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 i wanted to use a locking nut, but the neck was not intended to have a locking nut, and drilling holes for one would substancially weaken it..... but there's not enough space. so a bone/graphite nut is a no-no? but surely bone is much stronger? the other option would be to add wood to the headstock, so a locking nut could be fitted..... next problem is that the nut is only 40mm wide, and just about every FR/Kahler nut is around 43mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 What about a roller nut? Something like the LSR perhaps? A drawback is you'll need to rout a tiny bit of the fretboard to install it. Is your neck scalloped? No salience to the nut query, just curious as to my ablility to identify from picture . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 I'd say use a brass one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 now there's an idea... a brass nut.......how easy are those to file down? and yep its fully scalloped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 brass will catch and you will have tuning stability problems.but the roller nut idea is the best i have heard...that would solve your problems i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 keep in mind the graphite nut is used because it is slick...anything other nut material will catch and your strings will not return to pitch...the roller nut would not have that problem and it would never wear out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 but is it possible to find a flat bottom one (rectangular shape) but with it being 40mm or 1 8/16" wide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/Nuts.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 looks like they aren't available that thin...that sure is a narrow neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 if you have to use brass(if that is your only option)rub graphite(pencil lead)in the slots every time you change strings and it MAY be decent for you. i just don't know what else would work with the neck being so narrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 i know thats a major problem....... but it feels really nice, its my fav neck out of all guitars that i've played........ but it means hardware is a pain. isnt there this lubricant stuff also? i do think its the only option sadly enough also means i wont be copying the profile of this neck on any future projects, because as much as i like it, the hardware is far too big a problem........ and i could live with the extra 2/16" i suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 It's not a common nut material, but maybe you can custom make a stainless steel one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 a brass nut with WD 40 never gave me probs...and ask Yngwie the same.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 wd 40 is not good for some guitar finishes i don't think...and would not lubricate as well in those slots as graphite.i would keep that for working on the lawnmower.just too messy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 Yeah, but then this was on a $50 copy. Didnt affect the finish other that made it shile like all hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 you can buy graphite lubricant which comes in small pots with a thin dripper top i think. if you got a new nut such as brass then you could just use that. its basically just thin instrument oil with finelly powdered graphite in it so it shouldnt cause problems with finish etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 ok thanks, will install the brass nut shortly. i didnt want to start a new thread, so i'll just post in here... i've got to do some tidying up after the project as i just rushed it just to get it playing..... ok 1) is a clear coat a must? i've stripped mine down to sealer, and i love how it looks, and i dunno, is it necessary to finish it with laquer? i dont mind dents and what not on this guitar - it has that rough/beat up look on purpose..... 2) the electronics hum/buzz if i'm not touching either the strings/bridge or knobs (i have metal knobs)....... grounding problem....... but i know for a fact all grounding is done correctly, and there is a solid connection from volume pot to bridge........ is this because knobs are metal and are in direct contact with pots? so could i sort this out by just stiking masking tape (for example) around pots, so its no longer metal to metal? or why is this? 3) do i have to finish the neck with oil / laquer? it feels really really nice as bare wood, and i hate sticky laquer finishes but i dunno 4) my floyd does not pull up as easily as it should..... fulcrum posts are installed correctl,y but i think its because of the springs not being stretched out in a level form, they are sort of curved, so to pull up fully, you have to push them in, until they pish the spring claw down...... can i solve this by placing the spring claw lower down so springs are no longer bent? Roman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 graphite appears to be a rather soft material That's why I've only ever used it once, and hated it. I prefer good 'ol bone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 graphite appears to be a rather soft material That's why I've only ever used it once, and hated it. I prefer good 'ol bone. yeah, i learnt it the hard way........ but its really cool to work with though, can polish it up to mirror like reflection and its a joy to file and sand........ clearly the string had a field day eating through it too. but could you guys please answer my questions......... sorry but its kinda urgent and i'm relying on your expertise Roman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saber Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 4) my floyd does not pull up as easily as it should..... fulcrum posts are installed correctl,y but i think its because of the springs not being stretched out in a level form, they are sort of curved, so to pull up fully, you have to push them in, until they pish the spring claw down...... can i solve this by placing the spring claw lower down so springs are no longer bent? In that photo, are the strings tuned up to normal tension? If they are, the springs should not be fully contracted as they are, and the trem block should be perpendicular to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreamLine Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 4) my floyd does not pull up as easily as it should..... fulcrum posts are installed correctl,y but i think its because of the springs not being stretched out in a level form, they are sort of curved, so to pull up fully, you have to push them in, until they pish the spring claw down...... can i solve this by placing the spring claw lower down so springs are no longer bent? In that photo, are the strings tuned up to normal tension? If they are, the springs should not be fully contracted as they are, and the trem block should be perpendicular to the body. no, its with 2 strings broken (well i do like to abuse my good ol' OFR)...... but my point is, it will not go very far at all even from there, so from when the FR is setup correctly, its not doing the scoop of +2/3 steps a FR should be able to do, you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 4) my floyd does not pull up as easily as it should..... fulcrum posts are installed correctl,y but i think its because of the springs not being stretched out in a level form, they are sort of curved, so to pull up fully, you have to push them in, until they pish the spring claw down...... can i solve this by placing the spring claw lower down so springs are no longer bent? Your sustain block is too long. that's why the springs are curved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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