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Touch Ups And Polishing On Poly

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I am trying to touch up a few dings on my PRS and need some advise please.

I was able to touch up the ding that was to the wood, with super glue. Now I need to restore the touch up area and bring it to the same mirror gloss of the rest of the guitar.

Doing some research I bought the Micro Mesh soft touch Fonishing pads from Stew Mac. They claim that using only these pads in sequence you can get the super gloss. Well, I am finding that this is not working for me as advertised and I am having to use finishing compund to buff it the area to get close to super gloss.

Even Dan Erlewine shows a video (on micro mesh cloths) that have the same grits as these ones and he states that he can remove scratches and get the gloss WITHOUT buffing. Well,, I can't get that gloss without buffing.

I called stew mac and the rep told me that he had the same experience I had and that he will talk to R&D and let them know that the product is advertising as the only thing needed to get from scratch to gloss finish. He refunded my money. Stew mac cust service is awesome.

Anyways, any of you being successful in using any type of micro mesh with grits from 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 and being able to achieve a Mirror gloss JUST using these pads? These are the pads (reviewers have had success but neither the guy at stew mac or me were able to avoid the finishing compound.) My link

If you do, please let me know how you do it, so I can do the same. I am trying to avoid having to bring my drill with a foam pad to get the mirror finish.. and buffing by hand is a pain to me since I had wrist surgery.. so big no for hand buffing.


Thanks a lot !

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Not pads,sheets...but yes.

so how do you do it? the final 12000 grit one with water or dry and a lot of water or little?

I wonder what's the difference since both pads and cloth have the same grits.

Have you used Meguiars #1 MEDIUM to polish with a cloth? THat one is more coarse than the Fine Cut #2

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Just a lot of elbow grease...dry...I have done it but I prefer to get to about 8000 and then start buffing.

Have you used Meguiars #1 MEDIUM to polish with a cloth?

With a buffing machine,yes.I now use a car buffer(about $30 at Auto zone)to finish it out.It is very,very difficult and tedious to get rid of all of the scratches from a previous grit of Micro Mesh before moving to the next grit...Yes it can be done but it's much easier to buff the super fine scratches out.

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(Edit: while a "noobie" in the guitar building world, I've been painting cars and parts for over 10 years)

Any sandpaper above 2000 grit is a waste of time and money, and you will never truly "polish" your guitar with sandpaper.

edit: Polyester Resin is INCREDIBLY hard and rather thick. Its actually really easy to buff out.

Wet sand with 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1500. I usually stop there, but you can go to 2000 if you REALLY wanna make sure...

From there you need a buffer. I use a dual acting orbital and a radial buffer. For newbies you should start out with a dual action and foam pads for the most "Safety".

You need 3 pads. One for cutting, one for smoothing, and other for polishing.

I use 3m compounds as they are diminishing abrasives and the easiest to use (for me!) Plus they are cost effective too.

Cutting -> 3M rubbing compound

Smoothing -> 3M polishing compound

Polishing -> Adam's swirl and haze remover

This stuff is art and takes a while to get a hold of, so you may want to practice on a cheaper guitar.

Edited by bob123
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Well... I've gotten away with a buffer attachment for my drill quite a few times. Same process as above, plus one step. Hand polishing. I just use an auto polish I got from pep boys or autozone or something and a one of those soft buffering clothes they sell. This always seems to turn the finish from glass to liquid if you know what I mean. Maybe it's just a placebo. It seems easier than trying to use micromesh though and it's pretty cost effective. Tight spots can be a problem, but aren't they always?

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Well,micromesh is much better than any sandpaper grit above 600.All of that wetsanding is completely a waste of time if you have micromesh.If you just sand up to 400 with sandpaper,then go 1500-8000 on micromesh,then start the buffing process like bob says,then you have what i do now.But micromesh is in no way sandpaper,so just get over that idea...the grits do not even correspond.

1500 micromesh cuts as fast as 600 regular,but leaves finer scratches.It just is not the same thing at all

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