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Cnc Build Log


HuntinDoug

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First off: Thanks Brian for the new CNC area! :D

So, I've been planning on this build for a couple years now. I bought a commercial machine in 06'. Now it's time to move to a larger, more "stout" machine.

Harware:

Viper X2 - 40" x 60"

8080 base profile

30mm Thomson precision rails

8" Z-axis with 20mm rails

High precision 2525 ballscrews

Machined Aluminum table top

Porter Cable 892 w/ K2 mount

Electronics:

Gecko G540 controller

3- KL23H286-20-8B 425oz motors

48v 7.3a power supply

US Digital Encoders for closed loop system

MPG12 Pendant

Software:

Windows XP pro sp3

RhinoCAD 4.0 with MadCAM

Mach3

I have the machine assembled, and I'm working on bug fixes in Mach3. Here are some pics:

Machine table with unassembled parts:

cnc3.jpg

cnc1.jpg

PC table:

cnc2.jpg

More to come........

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Doug,

question for you. But first the build is looking good.

Okay question time. When you are doing the finish cut on your necks, the back carve. What settings are you using? The reason I ask is I forgot to give you some advice on that type of carve that should speed the operation up. :D

First what speeds and feeds are you using. Including plunge feeds.

So here's a tip for you to try. Go into your M3 general config and turn on plasma mode. Keep CV on as well. Then in your GCode, or with your CAM, edit or gen your plunge rate to 20% to 45% of your feedrate. Run sim to see the time. Also run a test piece I think you will find that this should cut off somewhere between 25% to 35% in your time possibly more. This will only apply to your finish cut not roughing.

Mike

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Hey Doug,

question for you. But first the build is looking good.

Okay question time. When you are doing the finish cut on your necks, the back carve. What settings are you using? The reason I ask is I forgot to give you some advice on that type of carve that should speed the operation up. :D

First what speeds and feeds are you using. Including plunge feeds.

So here's a tip for you to try. Go into your M3 general config and turn on plasma mode. Keep CV on as well. Then in your GCode, or with your CAM, edit or gen your plunge rate to 20% to 45% of your feedrate. Run sim to see the time. Also run a test piece I think you will find that this should cut off somewhere between 25% to 35% in your time possibly more. This will only apply to your finish cut not roughing.

Mike

I'll have to try that.

On the speeds & feeds for the necks I run. Honestly...It's been so long since I generated the TAP file in ArtCAM...I cant recall what speeds I used. I think I went fairly conservative on the plunge rate, maybe 20 ipm. I think I set up the actual carve at 100 ipm. I adjust it on the fly for the wood species I'm running. I dont do a roughing pass, so there is more stock left around the voloute. Sometimes I have to slow it down quite a bit in that area if I'm running a rock maple neck.

Now for a machine update. The machine is fully assembled. But, I have hit a run of "snaggs" as of late. The G540 blew a drive, so I had to send it back. Still waiting on it to come back. Also I came down with pneumonia a couple weeks ago. That has slowed me way down on the machine, and working around wood dusts. Hopefully I'll be back at it soon. :D

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  • 3 months later...

Well...I figure it's way past time for an update on the CNC build. I have the machine fully assembled & running. I have my trusty Xbox USB controller hooked up & running as the machine controller. And, I finally finished the enclosure with plexi doors just in time for the guitar building classes that start on Sept. 6th. So, I thought I'd share. :D

cnc9.jpg

cnc8.jpg

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  • 10 months later...

If you don't mind me asking, what does this come out to when its all Alex's up and ready. Their site says $1700... But then you add ANYTHING and it jumps huge. For someone not as versed in CNC yet its hard to get an actual estimate of what you'd walk out paying for what you actually need.

Chris

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If you don't mind me asking, what does this come out to when its all Alex's up and ready. Their site says $1700... But then you add ANYTHING and it jumps huge. For someone not as versed in CNC yet its hard to get an actual estimate of what you'd walk out paying for what you actually need.

Chris

Chris, IMHO to build a consistent machine with tight tolerances, minimal flex, power to work hardwoods easily, as well as size to do more than just guitar work. Plan on spending at a minimum of $3500 and go up from there. That's building one from scratch. Most of the kits I see need some major upgrades to get the sturdiness and power. I'm not saying they are not good machines just they need some reinforcement in areas or changes in electronics, possibly both. When you add these changes in the cost of building one yourself correct from the start is easily justified, IMHO.

Also the knowledge gained by building it your self, will help later when problems arise. YOU will have first hand knowledge of how your machine works and is made.

Mike

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I'm aware you can buy kits etc that need upgrading, I'm more interested in knowing the cost if a machine that doesn't and will never need upgrading, that can handle working as a business not a hobby.

If this is a machine that doug had upgraded to from an industrial machine, than this is something that gets my interest.

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Doug, as your sig suggests, you seem to be a CNC guru...

I know virtually nothing about CNC's and I remember someone at a local business saying they upgraed to a vacuum table and it solved a lot of their mounting problems being they did a lot of unique jobs.

I'm curious if there is a reason you dont use a vacuum table?

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I'm curious what something like this costs to build, assuming you are starting from scratch?

I lost track at about $5K. That includes everything though... Doors, router, bits, specialty collets, vacuum pump, etc. All in all, the machine far outweighs most commercial models of the same size. It can handle running all day with no problem. Having built it definitely helps when doing repairs & maintenance. I have plans to use this machine to build most of the parts for a smaller machine that will be for inlay only.

I'm curious if there is a reason you dont use a vacuum table?

I've made several part specific vacuum tables out of off cut corian material from a local counter top shop. The one I use the most is for fingerboards. I can radius, taper, slot, & cut inlay pockets at the same time with no worry of clamps being in the way.

I'm in the middle of tearing everything down for the move. Once I get everything moved, I'll try to post more pics & videos

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