rutledj Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 I know this is crazy but I would like to build an arched top solid body instrument. I'm going to pick out some lumber tomorrow (mohagony and quilted maple) and wanted to know how thick is the maple cap need to be to achieve an arched profile? I was going to look for 4/4 lumber but after sawing down the middle to create a bookmatched pair that would leave less than 1/2" thickness. Is that enough? Also, any suggestions on something to look for on the mohagany body and neck stock? I figure 8/4 lumber would do for that. Thanks, Rut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripthorn Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 If this is your first build, I would highly recommend holding off on the nice wood and ambitious build of an arched top guitar until you have at least one or two simpler builds under your belt. The caps are typically 3/4" thick, but usually for an arched top you will have something like a spruce top with a maple veneer, as a solid maple cap wouldn't allow for as much acoustic projection from the instrument. Of course, you can make it whatever you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutledj Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 but isn't a LP top a solid maple cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mender Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 but isn't a LP top a solid maple cap? Ah, I think you are getting your terms confused. An LP is a carved top, which is solid all the way through the cap. An arch top in the proper sense of the term is arched on the top and hollowed out underneath the top, or alternatively moulded to shape. A quick and simple comparison: Carved top l) Arch top )) Flat top ll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Good wood and nice wood are two completely separate thing and not always mutual. For first builds and as a rule for future wood choice, select good wood. This means straight grain, properly cut and dried with as few inclusions as possible. Nice wood might be good to look at, but is less likely to come under the heading of good wood unfortunately. Unless you have experience of working with figured woods - especially for contoured tops - I would heavily recommend working with non-figured till you find your feet. My first carved top instrument was also a Les Paul which I made from common Sapele. I learnt SO MUCH from that, especially the mistakes and inadequacies of my working techniques at the time. A LP-style instrument is not always for the beginner however you have to start somewhere, right? For the moment I would hang fire on committing a quilted top to a body though. Cut your teeth on "paint grade" wood carved top first and you'll thank yourself afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutledj Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Well, I will take your advise and do something not as nice. I did just pick up a nice piece of 8/4 mohagony. My thinking is something similar to LP but with some chambering to reduce the weight. What would you recommend for a cap piece and how thick would it need to me? Thanks, Rut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YetzerHarah Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 The new LPs are chambered to reduce weight. Same specs as the old ones (so I'd start w/ a 3/4" maple cap), but I think you're going to want to slim your mahogany dimensions down from 8/4 to 1.75" (standard LP if I'm not mistaken) or thinner, unless you're going to chamber the hell out of it, & then you might as well make an archtop. You have a lot of leeway with how you chamber it, depending on the balance, weight, & sound you're looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 I can't agree more. Essentially stick to the same build techniques and dimensions as a traditional LP but use either 3/4" Mahogany as your top piece or a different wood to more expensive quilted stock. For what it is worth, you could even use plain unfigured Maple for the top to learn about how to work and carve it. If you are buying a crapload of Mahogany though, you could stick to the same wood throughout and make the best of it economically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutledj Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Thx. Is it 1.75 including the carved top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 1,75" for the body with an additional 0,75" for the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shad peters Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I say if you want to do a carved top then go for it, just be patient in learning the technique and don't try it on expensive stuff at first. I did a couple of practice runs with pine and poplar before I started working with burls and stuff. Quilted maple is not particularly easy to carve, from my experience its quite a bit trickier to work with than just curly maple. Would it be impossible for you to use on your first build: no. Would it be extremely risky to try on your first build: absolutely. Do some test runs first and see if you are able to get results you are happy with. BTW for a bookmatched carved top 4/4 is way to thin to resaw. I prefer to start with 8/4 before resawing, but you can get away with less, 6/4 would probably be alright. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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